How to run Propane Lines?

[Ryan Grimm]

A good hardware store or perhaps a Radio Shack will have grommets in a wide variety of sizes.
Just make sure you do not make the hole too small, and do your best to deburr the sharp edges of the drilled hole(s).

If the hose has a largish fitting on the end, the technique for installing a rubber grommet is as follows:
1) first, make sure the hole is the right size.
2) then, slide the grommet onto the hose about where you want it...a couple drops of liquid dish soap helps.
3) flexing the grommet edges, gradually work the grommet into/through the hole while it's mounted on the hose/tube. You'll see what I mean when you actually try it. I often use a flat-blade screwdriver as a manipulator.

If the grommet will not fit/stretch over the fitting on the end of the hose, cut the grommet on one side and place it over the hose. Try using a dab of RTV silicone glue/caulk to reseal the grommet when you install it in the vehicle/bulkhead.

[Ryan Grimm]

Originally Posted by John

I recently completed propane installation of some appliances from a main tank. I used black iron pipe under the bus to where my appliances where, then used the standard appliance flex-hose. However, after looking things over, I noticed that the flex-hose clearly says it is not intended for use in a moving vehicle including rvs.

Do you guys think this is for liability reasons, or is there a serious vibration concern? Should I rip out the hoses and run copper or this marine hose mentioned earlier in this thread? I like the idea of being able to remove an appliance and then detach the propane line (i.e. it is hard to access my stove from the back without moving it. Luckily I don't have to move anywhere for a while so I can leave them in for now, but I need to figure out what to do safely for when I do start moving again.

For most connections from black pipe, copper is best IF SUPPORTED properly, and grommeted where it goes through floors/walls/bulkheads. There ARE flex hoses you can use.....
John, I advise against using NON-RV gas hoses. LOW-pressure hoses are available from RV dealers as replacements: use 'em! They are abrasion-resistant, and specifically designed for RV use. And not expensive, similar in price to home-oriented stuff...and a LOT safer.
Similarly, use the correct HIGH-pressure hoses between the propane tanks and the regulator.

This avoids the problems of having to frequently check hoses, fittings and connections using stuff that was not meant for RVs....AND THEN REPLACING IT ANYWAY.
I understand repairing RV and trailer pipes and hoses!......odds are, they were not installed and/or supported correctly in the first place, causing the problems. Take your time and THINK it over when doing the work. Working tired is dangerous, it gets you into thinking 'heck, that's good enough' when it's NOT.

Remember folks, a lot of thought has gone into propane use and RV design (and evolution due to tragedies!!!!!!!!), and following the best of RV practice is the way to go. DON'T RE-INVENT THE WHEEL! Being cheap is OK, PROVIDING you re-use materials PROPERLY and have INSPECTED the stuff you're re-using.

[John]

I'm finally getting ready to start driving around again (been land-locked way too long). So I've been looking at Low Pressure hoses. Something like:

[Low Pressure Gas Hose, 38" MPT x 1/2' Female Flare]

Low Pressure Gas Hose, 38" MPT x 1/2' Female Flare Low pressure hoses for use after propane goes through the regulator. 1 PSI working pressure. 1/2" female flare x 3/8" MPT.

Price: $7.29

http://www.rvupgradestore.com/detail...3812__178.html

1 PSI is fairly standard for internal RV appliances?

Also, will this type of hose coil well for pulling the appliance out, installing the hose and then pushing the appliance back into place?

Thanks for you all's propane experience!
John

[jkindt]

Originally Posted by Smitty

11 inches of water column (which is manifold pressure for LP) is 0.39740021010140003 PSI.

Smitty

Now that is precise!!! I thought we weren't building a watch here!