How to seal leaky windows !!!

[tobeamiss]

I'm having the same problem so I sealed up my windows real good with a silicone caulk...there was no way they were going to leak when I got finished....It rained...they leaked! So out came the window. On further inspection, standing inside, I looked all around the frame and where the frame meets the rib at the top left corner, I see old water stains at the seams. I'll get a picture in a few and come back to post.
FYI...I know it's not leaking from the roof because before I painted it I sealed every seam with silicone...sealed the hatch real good too....then painted with Henrys Tropi-cool which is 100% Silicone.
Your roof is one thing you have to consider because water will get in the seams and run down inside the rib to meet the window....tricky stuff.
So the window is out and I'll be doing a complete job on it sealing every seam and joint I can find. This is so frustrating because I can't move forward with flooring until I get this fixed!

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[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by tobeamiss

I'm having the same problem so I sealed up my windows real good with a silicone caulk...there was no way they were going to leak when I got finished....It rained...they leaked! So out came the window. On further inspection, standing inside, I looked all around the frame and where the frame meets the rib at the top left corner, I see old water stains at the seams. I'll get a picture in a few and come back to post.
FYI...I know it's not leaking from the roof because before I painted it I sealed every seam with silicone...sealed the hatch real good too....then painted with Henrys Tropi-cool which is 100% Silicone.
Your roof is one thing you have to consider because water will get in the seams and run down inside the rib to meet the window....tricky stuff.
So the window is out and I'll be doing a complete job on it sealing every seam and joint I can find. This is so frustrating because I can't move forward with flooring until I get this fixed!

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To me deleting the hatches and using real seam sealer on the seams is the best way to go. Then you can just paint the roof with normal paint and not rely on elastomerics to stop leaks.
My shorty has a leaky seam above the wheelchair door, we only discovered it after we'd sealed up the hatch and vents.
Keep fighting the good fight, I love following along your build.

[BowserJournal]

This is my next project and I wondered what type of sealant to use. Thanks!

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BowserJournal

This is my next project and I wondered what type of sealant to use. Thanks!

I use 3m automotive seam sealer.
For the roof vents, I use Dicor self leveling lap sealant.
Both are paintable after a short time, and will last a good long while.
Seam sealant is what's used in buses from the factory, but in my experience the manufacturers aren't 100% thorough so there are areas of most buses that need to be sealed up properly.
Its a lot of work to seal up the roof properly, but not too bad. A good weekend project.
Properly sealed up, there's no need to use paints designed to "seal" and then you end up with something that will hold up well.

[T-Bolt]

To seal my windows and all other penetrations I use Sikaflex 221 caulking that was designed for that purpose. Great stuff and paintable.

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[tobeamiss]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Keep fighting the good fight, I love following along your build.

Oh I am. It's kickin'my butt, but I'm still in it!
Tomorrow I'll head out to the automotive store and look for sealant. I like it. It makes perfect sense.



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[tobeamiss]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I use 3m automotive seam sealer.
For the roof vents, I use Dicor self leveling lap sealant.
Both are paintable after a short time, and will last a good long while.
Seam sealant is what's used in buses from the factory, but in my experience the manufacturers aren't 100% thorough so there are areas of most buses that need to be sealed up properly.
Its a lot of work to seal up the roof properly, but not too bad. A good weekend project.
Properly sealed up, there's no need to use paints designed to "seal" and then you end up with something that will hold up well.

When I removed the factory sealant from around the windows, it pulled off nicely like a fat sticky rubber band. This is the same kind of sealant I want to re-use. Would that be the 3M Dynatron 550 in gray?

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[cadillackid]

sounds like me trying to figure out where water is getting in the front... ive completely gone around the windshield, the seals, etc.. but still whe ni get caught in the rain I got water dripping out from under the dash..
-Christopher

[johnbloem1974]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

sounds like me trying to figure out where water is getting in the front... ive completely gone around the windshield, the seals, etc.. but still whe ni get caught in the rain I got water dripping out from under the dash..
-Christopher

Me too! are you having that issue with the Redbyrd or DEV? If the DEV - I wonder if it is Carpenter issue. If you figure it out - let me know! I'll do the same...

John

[cadillackid]

Both to some extent..

the DEV i can see it.. I know its the windshield as I see water in the well between the defroster duct and the rubber windshield seal..



the redbyrd is enough that I have towels on the floor folded up.. the passenger side is the worst in a really heavy rain like pre-tropical storm stuff its a steady series of drips..

on the driver side not as bad but I had to shield the brake pedal switches as it would sometimes drip in such a way to end up on that switch.. which tosses a code and disables my cruise...

im half suspecting that its getting sucked in around the wipers.. it looks like just a plastic cup thats supposed to sort of seal the shaft around the body

I havent yet torn apart the defrost ducts on that bus to track it down exactly.

-Christopher

[tobeamiss]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

sounds like me trying to figure out where water is getting in the front... ive completely gone around the windshield, the seals, etc.. but still whe ni get caught in the rain I got water dripping out from under the dash..
-Christopher

So frustrating. You have to be a detective and back track.....
If I get ALL of this done (have removed the Windows and looked deep and followed a trail to investigate) put everything back together and still get leaks I don't know what I'll do.



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[Jolly Roger]

I sealed every seam and window with NP-1. A sika flex product.
Then put sprinklers on the roof the hood and all around and chased leaks inside until I had them all. After gutting and Before I did any new install.
Good luck.
After 5-years I still have 3 minor ghost leaks I can't find?
2 around the front door and one at the back door? Neither show up with water hose or sprinkler going and access panels open? But I have definite water marks in very specific area's. Gotta find them?

[Max_Marz]

Originally Posted by tobeamiss

When I removed the factory sealant from around the windows, it pulled off nicely like a fat sticky rubber band. This is the same kind of sealant I want to re-use. Would that be the 3M Dynatron 550 in gray?

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I'd like to know the same thing. I'd like to use the original stuff because the windows came out so easy and I'm afraid other products will have too much adhesion.

[EastCoastCB]

The sealant on my windows looks and feels a LOT like Dynatron 550.

[tobeamiss]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

The sealant on my windows looks and feels a LOT like Dynatron 550.

Right on!
I found Dynatron 550 at Auto Zone and bought a tube.
I laid a small strip on my (unfinished) floor as a tester and 24hrs later it seems to be the same stuff or VERY similar to the original sealant. It's taken me a while to take out and insulate the windows along the passenger side (so far). The time killer was removing the caulking I used when I first had major leaks. A word to the wise...DO NOT USE 100% SILICONE. I used GE brand 100% silicone and it took a whole hour (for each window) to strip and clean using anything and everything I could find to pick it off because it splits and will not peel off. I turned to my wire wheel and a product that removes caulking and spray foam. Next week I'll be doing the Driver's side which will go alot smoother because I only used the GE 100% on two of the windows in the back. Really kicking myself in the butt for using that stuff! I could have been much further along by now.
Today I finish up (insulating) and replacing the last 2 windows and then it's on to caulking the outside with Dynatron 550. We've had rain threats this week but today it looks like Sun.
Thank you CB for that great info.

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[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by tobeamiss

Right on!
I found Dynatron 550 at Auto Zone and bought a tube.
I laid a small strip on my (unfinished) floor as a tester and 24hrs later it seems to be the same stuff or VERY similar to the original sealant. It's taken me a while to take out and insulate the windows along the passenger side (so far). The time killer was removing the caulking I used when I first had major leaks. A word to the wise...DO NOT USE 100% SILICONE. I used GE brand 100% silicone and it took a whole hour (for each window) to strip and clean using anything and everything I could find to pick it off because it splits and will not peel off. I turned to my wire wheel and a product that removes caulking and spray foam. Next week I'll be doing the Driver's side which will go alot smoother because I only used the GE 100% on two of the windows in the back. Really kicking myself in the butt for using that stuff! I could have been much further along by now.
Today I finish up (insulating) and replacing the last 2 windows and then it's on to caulking the outside with Dynatron 550. We've had rain threats this week but today it looks like Sun.
Thank you CB for that great info.

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Very cool!

[BowserJournal]

I have to remove the windows in order to remove the walls in our bus. I will be reusing the same windows but want to caulk them as well. Some of the windows you can actually see through the small bead between the bus frame and the window frame.

[Rusty]

I had a crazy idea (well, another one) that might work:

What if you sealed-up the bus and closed all openings off then drew a vacuum on the bus with big fan like they use to test houses.

Then do your thin seam sealer and have it drawn into the crevices.

Dunno. might work.

[Max_Marz]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

The sealant on my windows looks and feels a LOT like Dynatron 550.

Awesome thank you!

Tobeamiss, how are you "insulating" your windows?

[tobeamiss]

Originally Posted by Max_Marz

Awesome thank you!

Tobeamiss, how are you "insulating" your windows?

I'm sure I went overboard but then again you can never insulate enough in my opinion.
I got creative and used spray foam along the sides of the window frame. I let it cure and then trimmed it to size. Then, along the top (under the drip edge) I used ac foam insulation. Along the ribs and top of window frame I used felt.
I might just use felt for the windows on the other side but still use the ac foam along the top(1-1/4" x 1-1/4") and keep it simple.

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