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Old 06-23-2015, 06:29 PM   #1
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HowTo Properly mount and install fresh-water tank?

15 pages into Google search, 6 pages here, and cannot find the details. I know there is something here, just can not find it. If there is something here with detail, post a link please. If not, can we start the discussion?

Best I can tell, I think I can squeeze a 70 gallon into the ass-end drivers side. I have no welding skills(maybe soon?), and my structural engineering is poor. I figure something that weighs 800+ pounds needs to be done right, same with propane mounts - right?

So where do I start?

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Old 06-23-2015, 07:15 PM   #2
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Put my fresh water tank inside the bus and built cabinet over it. Wont freeze when camping in the fall/ winter months. Alot of the older rv's and campers had them inside.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:19 PM   #3
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Is it bolted down through the floor, or how is it secured in the event of a crash? That's a lot of mass if it breaks free of its mooring cabinet.
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Old 06-23-2015, 08:37 PM   #4
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I think campers would have many more options, depending on average length of trip.

However, my plan is to full-time in my skoolie, and NOT in a campground or trailer park, so I would like to have 60-100 gallons for my extended stays (3-8 weeks) away from the world. I am not willing to sacrifice my internal space, as that is mostly taken already

Not concerned about freezing temps, as when the extremes come..... I will go.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:43 AM   #5
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Fresh water is best inside. I figure you build a box for the larger bed in the rear, throw the tank under there on top of some rigid foam and strap it down with heavy duty metal straps rated for the weight. You can bolt it through the floor, washers locktight on the nut, no welding should be strong and your water wont freeze in cold weather. You can gravity feed the pump below even if its 10 or 20 feet forward.
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Old 06-24-2015, 05:18 AM   #6
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did you check this out?
School Bus Conversion - Plumbing

it is an example of welded but I bet you could plan out some drill and bolt if you're attentive to securing the bolts from wiggling loose.
I also saw a setup where the box was plywood and mounted with some real long threaded rod.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:26 AM   #7
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Quote:
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did you check this out?
School Bus Conversion - Plumbing
Excellent, yes exactly what I was looking for

My fear is that looks a bit under-engineered compared to the fuel tank mount. It would make me feel better if someone said, "Yes, the fuel tank mounts are designed to survive 70 mph head on collisions" or something like that
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:49 AM   #8
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I bet you could email VonSlatt about the mount strength...he seems rocky smart to me and he's traveled with those tanks.

There's also the National Transportation Safety Board website where you can do some searching for fuel tank recommendations. I read over there about a couple of accidents in the late 80's in which the bus fuel tank was knocked off the bus...
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:20 PM   #9
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Ameri-Kart gives some recommendations in a document available on their web site. One of the key things they suggest is boxing the tank inside something with stronger walls -- I get the idea the tank should be considered as a sanitary liner to go inside some other container, rather than being a container on its own. Put it inside a plywood, metal, or fiberglass box, for example.
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Old 06-24-2015, 02:57 PM   #10
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found this: Hepvo Waterless Valve and plan to use one or two myself to save valuable vertical inches...
wondering if others have experience with it.
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:42 PM   #11
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Can't remember which thread it was, but I found about that very valve on this site. Sounds like a great option.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site:skoolie.net+hepvo
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:56 AM   #12
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I was thinking of an enormous mid-ship bladder tank framed in between the insulation and the floor. Lose a foot or so of height but the weight lowers the center of gravity for a maximum roof raise.
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Old 07-22-2015, 04:42 PM   #13
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UNIVERSAL TANK MOUNTING KIT was how I fitted my external tanks - fresh and grey. They are bolted to floor above.
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Old 07-23-2015, 08:27 AM   #14
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Unistrut works great. They sell it at Menards now. I used it to hang my rear tank behind the rear axle between the frame rails.

I'll send a couple of photos if I can figure it out again. Something is different and I'm not sure how anymore.

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Old 07-23-2015, 01:37 PM   #15
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Easy peasy. Go to a truck wrecking yard and tell them you want fuel tank brackets. Square or round depending on your your water tanks. They are designed to hold fuel which is only slightly lighter than water and a lot more flammable. Make sure you use grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts to mount to your frame. Don't mount to your sheet metal floor. There, your problem is solved, no welding or engineering because it has already been done for you. Sorry to say but many installs here are very shade tree and extremely dangerous. 100 gallons of water weighs 800 pounds. If you have this inside of your conversion and don't have it properly secured while involved in an accident, the results could be catastrophic. I will leave it to your imagination.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:14 PM   #16
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Here is how i mounted my tank behind the rear axle. Channel iron and Its a 110gl tank. Rear view.
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:17 PM   #17
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Here is a side view of the rear tank.

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Old 07-23-2015, 11:29 PM   #18
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Here is how i mounted my tank behind the rear axle. Channel iron and Its a 110gl tank. Rear view.
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Holy cow! Did you clean and paint your undercarriage?
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:18 AM   #19
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Yes, took days with a descaler and grinding. Only done behind the rear axle so far. But as i go forward mounting stuff ill do the whole thing. Side tank and generator are next in front of the rear axle. Im not looking forward to more grinding rust! But its got to be done.
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:43 AM   #20
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I'm doin the same.
Friends always rag on me doing everything the hard way. But I usually do pretty good work!
Great pics, your hard work shows, man. Keep it up.
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