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Old 12-22-2014, 02:34 PM   #1
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Hurri hot removal question

We want to remove the hurri hot heat unit and its related hoses/wiring from the back of 'the bus' . It appears there are two red cut-offs (one in engine box and another under steps behind door).

Wondering how many liquid and electronic ways we could screw this up and the few ways we could successfully accomplish the removal without:
1. killing other electricals in the bus AND/OR
2. spewing coolant everywhere like party champagne AND/OR
3. rendering the motor useless.

We can't be the first newbs to attempt/accomplish the removal of a ridiculously large but otherwise useful heater...
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:38 PM   #2
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
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Where ya located?
They are fairly easy to remove. unplug the wires, remove the hoses, loop the hoses together with a brass fitting.
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:42 PM   #3
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Western North Carolina. Sounds like unplugging wiring won't interfere with other electronics (?). Do you know if those red shut offs are open when parallel to the hose (they both are currently)?
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Old 12-22-2014, 02:51 PM   #4
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I don't know.
What make and model is your bus?
No, the heaters won't affect anything electrical. But they do provide some heat when its being driven.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:00 PM   #5
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
93 Blue Bird type D 32 foot. Cummins B 5.9L; Allison MT643

Baby stages of renovation...only up the point of taking out heater/AC/flooring....but V. excited. Love it! but have only had it a couple weeks so I should still be in love, right?!

We won't remove all the heaters, just the one that hung from a seat in the back.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:04 PM   #6
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parallel=open, right angle=closed.


I left ours in and built around it. Much appreciated in the 20 degree morning temps that are coming soon.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:13 PM   #7
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,439
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Ball valves are usually closed when the handles are perpendicular to the pipe; open when parallel.
What kind of bus do you have? I don't know about other body types, but if it's a Thomas you are best off to plug the hose instead of looping it.

I posted a diagram on this page to help explain:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/showpo...19&postcount=8
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:27 PM   #8
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W.NC....like Asheville or Marion?
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:41 PM   #9
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Asheville...near abouts (not in town).
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Old 12-22-2014, 05:43 PM   #10
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 100
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9; MT643
Rated Cap: (was) 44; (now) 2
Diagram much appreciated. will crawl back under tomorrow and take another look.
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