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Old 02-02-2016, 01:27 PM   #101
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Roger that. Good plan. On my old BB I added a large (about 60" x 36") RV window up front on the passenger side. It was double framed with 1/8" wall 1-1/2" square tube all around. Gotta transfer that load somewhere as best you can.
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Old 02-02-2016, 05:42 PM   #102
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Yes, and if I find a deal on RV windows I'll take them and frame as you describe but if not I'll re-use the ones I remove from elsewhere on the project. I would really like to install better windows but 1) I like reusing what I can, and 2) I'm too cheap.

I know, I know, get rid of the crap and put in the efficient windows already. I might, depending on what kind of deal I can find and how well the project is going budget-wise.
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:36 PM   #103
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I applaud all you folks who have the skills and the time to cut, weld, re-rivet, etc. I think it's ossum. These things really depend on one a) having the skills/tools, b) what the bus will be used for and where... And it's also personal preference! Some people are totally ok with new technologies like spray foam, and some of us would rather wrap ourselves in lamb skins and call it a day! I think the variety of ideas and solutions to various challenges here is excellent.
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Old 02-03-2016, 07:21 PM   #104
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I also forgot to mention that I plan to "glue-n-screw" all of my connections. That is, I will glue the strapping to the rib framing AND sheet metal screw it to said framing. I will also glue AND screw the ceiling panels to said strapping. I will also glue and screw all of the interior framing together. AND I'm going to loctite every other screw, bolt and nut I install, especially on the electrical and plumbing gear.

My bus seems to rattle a lot and I don't want to risk an electrical fire or other such mishap when it's so easy to also apply an adhesive. I got this from Hobie Cat ownership and all the upkeep required, and also from building wooden surf and paddle boards. I also know master joinery guys who ALWAYS use glue along with their fasteners.


Anyway...
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:43 PM   #105
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I love the idea of knowing all you can know before beginning a project, however, I am also OCD like that. If I don't just rip something out it will never get done. For 23yrs. I kept a car I wanted to restore and I always said if it couldn't be done right, it wasn't going to get done. Nothing I don't know about that car. Could build it in my sleep. But it never got done. I never had the heart to tear it down. Someone else owns it now & occasionally I see it the local car show. My two cents is, "Just do it, before you don't.!"
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Old 03-31-2016, 06:58 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight Rat View Post
I love the idea of knowing all you can know before beginning a project, however, I am also OCD like that. If I don't just rip something out it will never get done. For 23yrs. I kept a car I wanted to restore and I always said if it couldn't be done right, it wasn't going to get done. Nothing I don't know about that car. Could build it in my sleep. But it never got done. I never had the heart to tear it down. Someone else owns it now & occasionally I see it the local car show. My two cents is, "Just do it, before you don't.!"
I'm dithering with that same problem with an 89 4runner I want to restore, but lately I'm taking a realistic look at the fact that I don't have the tools, or the money, and unless I win a lottery, the money will never change. I'm toying with the idea of selling it and let someone else enjoy it, even if it does get turned into a rock crawler. A bus would be more likely to happen than a restoration of the '89 Toy.

Meanwhile, I'm studying this thread pretty close for the great info on insulation.
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:49 PM   #107
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I feel old, folks restore cars made when I was 9!
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Old 03-31-2016, 08:56 PM   #108
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You feel old? I was 32 when that 4runner was made.
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:48 PM   #109
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Fair enough.
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Old 04-09-2016, 04:51 PM   #110
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Year: 1998
Coachwork: corbeil
Chassis: ford e350
Engine: 7.3 powerstroke
5 years ago I build a metal barn and insulated that with density 2.0 closed cell spray foam directly against the metal. walls 4" and roof 6". I wanted to get an insulated building with a much higher structural integrity. All metal panels were installed on 1/2 foam blocks as to reduce thermal leaks.

half a year ago I decided that i wanted a window in a side wall and with an angle grinder cut thru the outer layer and try to peel the metal of the foam. I was , i would say extremely pleased that that was very very hard. We started in a corner with crowbars.

I recently took the roof sheeting of my house and installed purlins and a metal roof and based on the positive experience with my barn spray foamed the interior and gained a much better structural strength by bonding everything together.

I would think that removing the metal inner skin would definitely compromise the designed strength of the side walls and roof and if i look at the seats of our little corbeil bus then it is obvious that the seat frames are used to brace the sidewall against side impact.

That does not mean that you could not remove any of that as long as you realize and are comfortable that the specification have changed.

For me, I will bring the metal sidewall in about an 1.5" and make a temporary plywood wall to keep the inner side wall and outer side wall straight and carefull fill the space between with closed cell foam that can be poured as to adhere everything together and improve on the original design specification.
That closed cell foam is often used in boats to fill up voids and give it garantied buoyancy in case of hull penetration.

Later J
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