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Old 05-05-2016, 05:00 PM   #131
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Ohhh...THAT Dan Fox.

No place like Burning Man to find wacky geniuses.
Dudes a freakin' legend in Burner circles!

Warning: thread drift.
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:02 PM   #132
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Ohhh...THAT Dan Fox.

No place like Burning Man to find wacky geniuses.
Holy Mother of Pearl! I'm humbly proud to share a name with the guy who built that. Now _there_ is a Maker.
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Old 05-05-2016, 07:01 PM   #133
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Is that for changing street lights?
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Old 05-14-2016, 07:24 PM   #134
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Struggling!

I am working on a bus conversion with my fiancÚ. We didn't even know that there is insulation in the sides. So I understand that you take the siding off and remove the molding insulation, but what is the best way to fix it after that? Just put new insulation in? Is there a way to find where it was leaking and seal it? I'm not the handiest of people but I'm enjoying learning!
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:36 PM   #135
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I am working on a bus conversion with my fiancÚ. We didn't even know that there is insulation in the sides. So I understand that you take the siding off and remove the molding insulation, but what is the best way to fix it after that? Just put new insulation in? Is there a way to find where it was leaking and seal it? I'm not the handiest of people but I'm enjoying learning!
Put in foam or something that won't harbor the mold, and seal everything up really well.
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:17 PM   #136
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Once you have the panels off and remove the insulation it should be apparent where the leaks are, if any. Looking at the insulation as you remove it will change color and tell you where the leaks are. Most of it should be in the lower part of the wall cavities but you may find some in the ceiling too.
It's highly favored to use spray foam insulation while the walls and ceiling are open. It seals quite well and helps to avoid condensation. Additional rigid insulation is usually also added depending on how extreme of a climate you're designing it for.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:10 AM   #137
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Once you have the panels off and remove the insulation it should be apparent where the leaks are, if any. Looking at the insulation as you remove it will change color and tell you where the leaks are. Most of it should be in the lower part of the wall cavities but you may find some in the ceiling too.
It's highly favored to use spray foam insulation while the walls and ceiling are open. It seals quite well and helps to avoid condensation. Additional rigid insulation is usually also added depending on how extreme of a climate you're designing it for.
The ceilings hid the worst of the funk.
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Old 05-15-2016, 07:23 AM   #138
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You should also seriously consider "strapping" it before installing the spray in insulation and inside panels. Strapping is attaching either 1x4 or 2x4's, depending on your climate and insulation requirements, the full length of the bus from front to back every 12" or so from one chair rail, around the ceiling, to the other chair rail. Then you spray the foam into that deeper cavity.

You get superior R value and solid attachment points for your buildout, and you do so without creating the "thermal bridge" to the exterior.


On mine I'm going to remediate the rust I have and then paint the entire interior in rustoleum primer. Then I'm going to paint that over with elastomeric paint (like I'll use in the roof) to seal it all up permanently, then I'll hit it with the foam.


THAT should do it!
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:09 AM   #139
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You should also seriously consider "strapping" it before installing the spray in insulation and inside panels. Strapping is attaching either 1x4 or 2x4's, depending on your climate and insulation requirements, the full length of the bus from front to back every 12" or so from one chair rail, around the ceiling, to the other chair rail. Then you spray the foam into that deeper cavity.

You get superior R value and solid attachment points for your buildout, and you do so without creating the "thermal bridge" to the exterior.


On mine I'm going to remediate the rust I have and then paint the entire interior in rustoleum primer. Then I'm going to paint that over with elastomeric paint (like I'll use in the roof) to seal it all up permanently, then I'll hit it with the foam.


THAT should do it!
I'm finishing up on that very course of action with my bus now.
VERY good plan. But go to tractor supply and get some of this hardener-

Works great and makes the rustoleum dry faster and harder.
I'm finishing up priming the entire ceilings today... SO glad to be done with that!
Once i got everything down to bare metal I used Ospho. Then Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and I'm going to spray some sort of topcoat just for the eff of it. Theres some white outdoor stuff made for propane tanks that's on sale at tractor supply right now, so I'm thinking I'll go with that.
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Old 05-17-2016, 08:35 AM   #140
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EastCoastCB: Thanks for this catalyst tip! I picked some of this up at Tractor Supply, my first time there, and it worked beautifully.

I went ahead and used the full container to the gallon. It was a little late to start, 5pm, but I enlisted my kids and we went for it.

I ended up painting until 10pm so that I wouldn't waste any. With the outside done I still had about a quart left so I moved inside and used the rest on the interior framing and panels until I ran out.

As advertised it went on very smooth and set up well. It needed to because I was getting rain overnight and I wanted it done. This morning I took a look at it and for a first coat it really looks good. It laid down very smooth and the flat area we rollered ended up with just enough of a nice, subtle texture while the rub rails that we brushed looked smooth as glass. GREAT stuff!



Thanks again!
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