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Old 05-17-2016, 04:00 PM   #151
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No, not on the interior, as long as I seal anything on-treated it will be fine. That stuff's not healthy in a living area. I will use treated plywood on the floors of the storage bins I'm putting below deck.
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:19 PM   #152
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You're not using a marine grade plywood?
Why would you use marine grade plywood for your furring strips? Talk about not being conservative on your wallet...

A simple 2X2 or 2X4 is what one would want. I wasn't referring to his interior paneling. Only the stuff that would come in contact with a metal surface or have a space between the wood and the shell of the skoolie.
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:29 PM   #153
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Right now I have a bunch of 3/4" 9-ply birch plywood I picked up as a free shipping container that I ripped into 3" strips. They're much stronger and less subject to splitting while installing compared to dimensional lumber. Plus they were free so what the heck.

I do now think I want the added depth of the 2x on the ceiling for the greater R value, so I may double stack them from above the windows and around to the other windows.


And, predictably, now that that lightbulb went off I might be talking myself into doing the same for the walls as well. I just don't know how impactful loosing another 1.5" all the way around will be. Sounds small I know, but the bus is already a small living area so it might be enough to regret it.
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:42 PM   #154
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the 2X i was referring to would be used in the wall before you panel. You know, something to fasten your cabinets into? If you have free ply that you ripped, glue it, clamp it, and screw it in! You can't beat free if you know how to re-purpose it!!!!!
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:46 PM   #155
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Most of the better insulated buses seem to have that wider window sill from using the furring strips to create a thermal break. I think you're on the right track.

Doc, I though he was talking about elastomeric coatings for wood in contact with the floor. Were you talking about putting the coating on furring strips?
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:52 PM   #156
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Has anyone tried that plastic lumber made from recycled stuff?
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Old 05-17-2016, 04:59 PM   #157
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Doc, I though he was talking about elastomeric coatings for wood in contact with the floor. Were you talking about putting the coating on furring strips?
YUP.

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Has anyone tried that plastic lumber made from recycled stuff?

They're pricey, and they don't do so well with not stripping out when the bus moves a lot. I built a gazebo and we used it for the decking, screws started to back out after 6 or 7 months of walking on it.
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:01 PM   #158
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Doc: You guessed it! The nailer-"strapping" I'm installing will be well fastened to the bus framing to provide something very solid to fasten cabinetry, etc.

I do plan to "glue and screw" not only all of this wood strappjng but also every other piece of framing, too. I learned that watching master joinery guys, they glue and then nail/screw everything.


I'll also put locktight on every screw and bolt on the electrical system and everywhere else, too. Why not? Doesn't take much effort and it's cheap insurance against her rattling important parts loose at the most inopportune time!
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Old 05-17-2016, 05:06 PM   #159
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Doc: You guessed it! The nailer-"strapping" I'm installing will be well fastened to the bus framing to provide something very solid to fasten cabinetry, etc.

I do plan to "glue and screw" not only all of this wood strappjng but also every other piece of framing, too. I learned that watching master joinery guys, they glue and then nail/screw everything.


I'll also put locktight on every screw and bolt on the electrical system and everywhere else, too. Why not? Doesn't take much effort and it's cheap insurance against her rattling important parts loose at the most inopportune time!
Sounds like we be on the same frequency!!!
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Old 07-28-2016, 04:03 PM   #160
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[QUOTE=teambadass;134522]I'm still not convinced that tearing out the walls is the best idea, esp. if the bus will be moving a lot or being used for a different purpose in the future... I forget which thread I read where someone brought up the idea of the skin of the bus (both interior and exterior) being integral to the structural integrity of the bus as a whole. When I was reading through some of the "completed conversion" thread, I read about owner/drivers completely losing screws in their panelling and having to retighten and refix, which in my mind is due to the structural integrity of the vehicle being compromised. Yes, I think insulation is super important in terms of temperature control, resource conservation, etc., but if installing stellar insulation means one has to compromise the structural integrity of something that is meant to move, I don't know that it's worth it.


I read that post just awhile ago- I believe they were talking about the lower bar of metal the seats bolt onto .... Very interesting read. The middle sheets of metal will be fine to take off and put back on..
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