Insulation and Mold Links

[Robin97396]

It's amazing how much newer buses look with a coat of paint, any color. That's a nice neutral color.

With that paint job you've left the door open for lots of short jokes. Would you like to borrow a step stool?

[Jman6631]

Short? Really? Lay it on me!

[Robin97396]

Well, I like how you evenly painted to the bottom of the windows. You could have said that's how high the kids could reach.

That does look good, and it's something I need to do myself although it is interesting to have all the actual school bus drivers waving at me.

[Jman6631]

Ha! That is actually about how high they could reach. I had to keep going over what they did on their tippy-toes.

Around here, as I understand it, we can't drive yellow school busses around. I haven't seen it written in a statute or anything but understand it's best not to, which makes sense, I guess.

[Robin97396]

Yes, driving a yellow school bus is discouraged everywhere. Imagine if there was a flood that somehow your bus got swept up into. If it's yellow lots of people are going to try to pull that bus out of the water. If you have it painted they'll say "What was that guy thinking?" as they watch it float away.

A yellow paint job is just about sure to get you in trouble at some point if you're planning on traveling very much. Also, if it doesn't say SCHOOL BUS, a yellow bus might as well say HIPPIE BUS.

You've been making some nice progress on your rig. You passed me by about your second week.

[Jman6631]

Progress, really? I feel like I'm wasting time. I do travel 60%-80%, nearly 100% these days so I guess it's expected to feel like I'm not making progress.

Once I get it registered and insured I'll do the roof raise, which I'm prepping for now. I'm dying to get into that already!

Oh, and another reason for the two-tone is because it will be, well, two-toned! Once the windows come out and I raise the roof everything between the widow sills and the drip edge will be gone and replaced with those new windows or sheet metal. Then above that will be the white elastomeric paint on the roof with the nice curved detail fore and aft.

Which brings up another question: Does anybody know if reusing the interior metal panels on the outside to skin parts over is an issue? It's good steel, is sealed and painted and would work great, right? Any reason why I shouldn't use it that way?

[Robin97396]

No reason I'm aware of, other than rust issues. I noticed that the edges of my interior panels shows a small amount of rust after using propane to heat this past winter.

My panels are the perforated type and I was thinking of trying to see what that would look like over the exterior of a window.

[Docsgsxr]

Originally Posted by Jman6631

Strapping is attaching either 1x4 or 2x4's, depending on your climate and insulation requirements, the full length of the bus from front to back every 12" or so from one chair rail, around the ceiling, to the other chair rail. Then you spray the foam into that deeper cavity.

Make sure you moisture proof your wood before installation and foam application. Wood is organic, holds bacteria and can mold, plus you don't want termites or ants finding that one spot and eating out your support system for your cabinets and walls.....

Your elastomeric paint would be pretty good for this, unless you use pressure treated, then you just need plain old thompson's.

[Jman6631]

Good point. I wouldn't use treated lumber but sealing what I do install is a good idea, and I hadn't thought of using the elastomeric for it, thanks!

[Robin97396]

You're not using a marine grade plywood?

[Jman6631]

No, not on the interior, as long as I seal anything on-treated it will be fine. That stuff's not healthy in a living area. I will use treated plywood on the floors of the storage bins I'm putting below deck.

[Docsgsxr]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

You're not using a marine grade plywood?

Why would you use marine grade plywood for your furring strips? Talk about not being conservative on your wallet...

A simple 2X2 or 2X4 is what one would want. I wasn't referring to his interior paneling. Only the stuff that would come in contact with a metal surface or have a space between the wood and the shell of the skoolie.

[Jman6631]

Right now I have a bunch of 3/4" 9-ply birch plywood I picked up as a free shipping container that I ripped into 3" strips. They're much stronger and less subject to splitting while installing compared to dimensional lumber. Plus they were free so what the heck.

I do now think I want the added depth of the 2x on the ceiling for the greater R value, so I may double stack them from above the windows and around to the other windows.


And, predictably, now that that lightbulb went off I might be talking myself into doing the same for the walls as well. I just don't know how impactful loosing another 1.5" all the way around will be. Sounds small I know, but the bus is already a small living area so it might be enough to regret it.

[Docsgsxr]

the 2X i was referring to would be used in the wall before you panel. You know, something to fasten your cabinets into? If you have free ply that you ripped, glue it, clamp it, and screw it in! You can't beat free if you know how to re-purpose it!!!!!

[Robin97396]

Most of the better insulated buses seem to have that wider window sill from using the furring strips to create a thermal break. I think you're on the right track.

Doc, I though he was talking about elastomeric coatings for wood in contact with the floor. Were you talking about putting the coating on furring strips?

[Robin97396]

Has anyone tried that plastic lumber made from recycled stuff?

[Docsgsxr]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Doc, I though he was talking about elastomeric coatings for wood in contact with the floor. Were you talking about putting the coating on furring strips?

YUP.

Originally Posted by Robin97396

Has anyone tried that plastic lumber made from recycled stuff?

They're pricey, and they don't do so well with not stripping out when the bus moves a lot. I built a gazebo and we used it for the decking, screws started to back out after 6 or 7 months of walking on it.

[Jman6631]

Doc: You guessed it! The nailer-"strapping" I'm installing will be well fastened to the bus framing to provide something very solid to fasten cabinetry, etc.

I do plan to "glue and screw" not only all of this wood strappjng but also every other piece of framing, too. I learned that watching master joinery guys, they glue and then nail/screw everything.


I'll also put locktight on every screw and bolt on the electrical system and everywhere else, too. Why not? Doesn't take much effort and it's cheap insurance against her rattling important parts loose at the most inopportune time!

[Docsgsxr]

Originally Posted by Jman6631

Doc: You guessed it! The nailer-"strapping" I'm installing will be well fastened to the bus framing to provide something very solid to fasten cabinetry, etc.

I do plan to "glue and screw" not only all of this wood strappjng but also every other piece of framing, too. I learned that watching master joinery guys, they glue and then nail/screw everything.


I'll also put locktight on every screw and bolt on the electrical system and everywhere else, too. Why not? Doesn't take much effort and it's cheap insurance against her rattling important parts loose at the most inopportune time!

Sounds like we be on the same frequency!!!

[PurpleSageMama]

[QUOTE=teambadass;134522]I'm still not convinced that tearing out the walls is the best idea, esp. if the bus will be moving a lot or being used for a different purpose in the future... I forget which thread I read where someone brought up the idea of the skin of the bus (both interior and exterior) being integral to the structural integrity of the bus as a whole. When I was reading through some of the "completed conversion" thread, I read about owner/drivers completely losing screws in their panelling and having to retighten and refix, which in my mind is due to the structural integrity of the vehicle being compromised. Yes, I think insulation is super important in terms of temperature control, resource conservation, etc., but if installing stellar insulation means one has to compromise the structural integrity of something that is meant to move, I don't know that it's worth it.


I read that post just awhile ago- I believe they were talking about the lower bar of metal the seats bolt onto .... Very interesting read. The middle sheets of metal will be fine to take off and put back on..