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Old 07-26-2018, 01:52 PM   #1
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Insulation and wall questions

Hi everyone!
I am mid-demo on my 4 window shorty. This bus will be an occasional RV and mobile art studio, so no full time living.

I'm a bit confused about wall insulation and thermal bridging. I popped all the rivets, and taking down the wall panels Monday. Original ceiling is staying intact (mold-free and good condition)

My question is, since I don't plan on doing anything to the ceiling, how important is it to worry about thermal bridging on the walls? They will all be behind furniture and the futon, so aesthetics don't matter at all. I plan to silicone caulk the windows to stop leaks, then insulate with rigid foam and reinstall the original wall panels.

Am I on the right track? Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-26-2018, 02:52 PM   #2
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The walls are easy, get some rigid foam and stick it on the metal panels, but don't put the metal back up or you just wasted that time and money.

The ceiling is going to be a real heater. If you're dead set on leaving it in place, throw several coats of white paint on the roof to try reflecting as much as possible. Uncovered windows are going to be a big heat sink as well.

I actually cheaped out on my short bus and just wrapped the inside in Reflectix. It's not great insulation, but anything is better than no insulation.

I've got about $2500 worth of insulation in my new bus so far because I try to learn from my mistakes!
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Old 07-30-2018, 01:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimche View Post
Hi everyone!
I am mid-demo on my 4 window shorty. This bus will be an occasional RV and mobile art studio, so no full time living.

I'm a bit confused about wall insulation and thermal bridging. I popped all the rivets, and taking down the wall panels Monday. Original ceiling is staying intact (mold-free and good condition)

My question is, since I don't plan on doing anything to the ceiling, how important is it to worry about thermal bridging on the walls? They will all be behind furniture and the futon, so aesthetics don't matter at all. I plan to silicone caulk the windows to stop leaks, then insulate with rigid foam and reinstall the original wall panels.

Am I on the right track? Thanks in advance.
Don't use silicone caulk. It doesn't hold up well compared to newer technology. It's not that much more expensive.
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Old 07-30-2018, 02:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kimche View Post
Hi everyone!
I am mid-demo on my 4 window shorty. This bus will be an occasional RV and mobile art studio, so no full time living.

I'm a bit confused about wall insulation and thermal bridging. I popped all the rivets, and taking down the wall panels Monday. Original ceiling is staying intact (mold-free and good condition)

My question is, since I don't plan on doing anything to the ceiling, how important is it to worry about thermal bridging on the walls? They will all be behind furniture and the futon, so aesthetics don't matter at all. I plan to silicone caulk the windows to stop leaks, then insulate with rigid foam and reinstall the original wall panels.

Am I on the right track? Thanks in advance.
We didn't think we had any leaks or mold either.. insulation looked good and no drips in heavy rain. However, my daughter with allergies kept having a reaction in the bus so we ripped it our of the walls and ceilings. To our surprise there was mold between the adhesive and the insulation and the bus began leaking in the rain. We lined our whole bus in Lizard Skin sound control and Lizard Skin Thermal and it solved the mold and sealed every hole and gap perfectly.. It's been a great option for us. The bus is so quiet now (even in its completely empty state) when driving and much much cooler. Check out our video for and idea of what its like. We will be paneling over the spray in with fiberboard on the walls and ceiling and putting a runner rug down the isle on the floor.. saved us 2" in height just building off the spray in floor with out a floating sub-floor.

https://youtu.be/f6xCw2JPKtg starting around the 3:40 mark

Good luck!
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:13 PM   #5
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wow thats looks like some cool stuff.. great video btw..
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:25 PM   #6
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wow thats looks like some cool stuff.. great video btw..
Thanks
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Old 08-11-2018, 10:32 PM   #7
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would you mind sharing how many gals of each produce you used and how thick? how many sq.ft you did? I'm getting close to stay foam time and this might be a upgrade worth the effort and $$
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Old 08-11-2018, 11:03 PM   #8
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would you mind sharing how many gals of each produce you used and how thick? how many sq.ft you did? I'm getting close to stay foam time and this might be a upgrade worth the effort and $$
I don't mind at all.

12 x's 2gal jugs of Lizard Skin sound control <~~ this was enough to cover the floors of a 15 window bus and the walls and the ceiling as well as the stairs. 6 X's 2 gallon jugs of white thermal (we used on the ceiling and B-pillers) and 7 x's 2 gallon jugs of black thermal (used everywhere else)... (the extra black was bought later and used to go over top of the 10 windows we are going to "kill"").

*note Lizard Skin is paintable and we chose the ceiling to be in the white shade incase we wanted to paint an area white covers easier.

*note that we painted the inside of the 10 windows we were "killing" black with black spray paint first and then went over top of the black paint with the thermal. From the outside looking in you can't even tell the windows are different than the others.

Total cost is close to $3600 all in<~~ bought at JEGS online I told them I had a racing team and they gave me the racing discount as well as a 10% online coupon and free shipping.

*also note that I had to buy the special Lizard liner spay gun kit as well.

I gained over an inch on the floor by not doing a floating sub floor. I gained over an inch in height in the shower stall buy just spraying a clear enamel over the thermal barrier in area over the shower stall (this will be the only ceiling area where we won't have a fiberboard sub ceiling. I am 6'2 and needed the extra inch on the floor we gained and the extra inch in the ceiling I gained by not installing a sub ceiling there in order to stand completely vertical).

Lizard skin forums claim an R16 insulation value... its likely more like an R10 but this is dramatically better than spray in or silver backed insulation at a R3.5 value. Also, the sound control stops the rattles and resenence very well.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-11-2018, 11:04 PM   #9
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I don't mind at all.

12 x's 2gal jugs of Lizard Skin sound control <~~ this was enough to cover the floors of a 15 window bus and the walls and the ceiling as well as the stairs. 6 X's 2 gallon jugs of white thermal (we used on the ceiling and B-pillers) and 7 x's 2 gallon jugs of black thermal (used everywhere else)... (the extra black was bought later and used to go over top of the 10 windows we are going to "kill"").

*note Lizard Skin is paintable and we chose the ceiling to be in the white shade incase we wanted to paint an area white covers easier.

*note that we painted the inside of the 10 windows we were "killing" black with black spray paint first and then went over top of the black paint with the thermal. From the outside looking in you can't even tell the windows are different than the others.

Total cost is close to $3600 all in<~~ bought at JEGS online I told them I had a racing team and they gave me the racing discount as well as a 10% online coupon and free shipping.

*also note that I had to buy the special Lizard liner spay gun kit as well.

I gained over an inch on the floor by not doing a floating sub floor. I gained over an inch in height in the shower stall buy just spraying a clear enamel over the thermal barrier in area over the shower stall (this will be the only ceiling area where we won't have a fiberboard sub ceiling. I am 6'2 and needed the extra inch on the floor we gained and the extra inch in the ceiling I gained by not installing a sub ceiling there in order to stand completely vertical).

Lizard skin forums claim an R16 insulation value... its likely more like an R10 but this is dramatically better than spray in or silver backed insulation at a R3.5 value. Also, the sound control stops the rattles and resenence very well.

Hope this helps.
The splotchy places on the floor and ceiling in the pics are where I went back the next day and touched up a few places. 24hrs it dried and matched right up.
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Old 08-11-2018, 11:40 PM   #10
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o wow thats a great info post! so I got a quote of $ 1800- 2000 to do the spray foam 1.5-2.5" in various areas and I have a lot of gaps to fill as I re-skinned basically the entire outside.
I did a 13" roof raise and all new window openings.So the foam seemed to me to be the best way to go. I'm doing 2.5" on the roof.

I have already installed 1" foam on the floor and 9 ply 5/8" ply sub floor. so my question would be do you thing doing just the roof and walls will thermal spray and then foam over it? the floor seams way quieter then before the sub was down.
thanks
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