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Old 05-19-2016, 11:39 PM   #41
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 220
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Skool View Post
I am 6'4 and the interior height of my bus (3800 international) is 6'2 and 6'4 to 6'5 with the roof hatches up but not open.

Now, I plan to do a lift just for my general brain health.

At first, I was going to lift the roof 16" but due to heavy outer skin rust and other big issues. I am going to lift it roughly 20" and extend the outer skin skirting down about 8-9". I want to give my Bus a semi-couch bus look with a lower skirt and it also helps with mounting under carriage storage containers.

If, I lift 20" I can hang new sheet metal panels vertically to include the lift and skirt extension. An interesting concept and hopefully it will pan out properly.

Also, being in Northern Minnesota our temps often vary 140 degrees from season to season.

I plan to add two layers of 2" insulation to the floor giving me roughly 4" of insulation. The same with the roof in time if possible. A flooring interior floor is the overall game plan.

Two inches of wall insulation should be plenty. I have always applied general home construction rules to my bus. A good set of boots and a good cover solves a lot of problems down the road.

Hope my words have helped a little.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Just remember underpass heights in town
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:15 AM   #42
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: New York City
Posts: 4
Lizard Skin

Had anyone tried insulating a Skoolie with "Lizard Skin"? I've been reading and learning lots of great things about this product.
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:29 AM   #43
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 7,943
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I looked into lizardskin in my last hotrod project as an alternative to Dynamatting.. it looks liek a decent product.. at least for interior use.. I dont know about using it underneath the bus where its exposed to the weather.. or what its R-value is.. I might try something like that on the underside of my doghouse cover..

dynamat would be weight and cost prohibitive to do a whole bus..
-Christopher
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Old 05-21-2016, 02:22 PM   #44
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kent, WA (Seattle)
Posts: 389
Year: 1987
Engine: 6.9L Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by KatBus View Post
Had anyone tried insulating a Skoolie with "Lizard Skin"? I've been reading and learning lots of great things about this product.
I don't know much, but the popular consensus up to now seems to be hy-tech insulating beads/paint. From glancing at the lizardskin page for 5 minutes, they both seem to use ceramic beads so I would imagine they are similar products. Everyone who uses insulating paint seems pleased with it. Some get the insulating paint, some get the insulating beads. I got the beads without the paint because it's really expensive to ship from Florida.
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:38 PM   #45
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Location: Nashville, TN
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Originally Posted by Docsgsxr View Post
I was reading in another thread that someone on here only had the rubberized flooring in their skoolie when they bought it......can't remember for the life of me though.
All I had was the "linoleum". No wood. I'm 6 foot even and I am the perfect height for my 1993 International 3700
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:38 AM   #46
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: colorado
Posts: 11
Year: 2002
Engine: chevy
What if the original bus sub-floor is a piece of sheet metal or steel after I strip the rubber off the floor? Will a piece of plywood screw to the metal or do I remove the metal too?
Shawna
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:41 AM   #47
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: colorado
Posts: 11
Year: 2002
Engine: chevy
Can I just spray foam in where the original insulation already is without taking walls and ceiling apart and replacing the old insulation? Im new to this and not a carpenter just an ole gramma who wants to live in her bus!
Shawna
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:57 AM   #48
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,330
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
There will be a layer of sheet metal down there; the only question is whether there is a layer of plywood between the rubber and the steel. The steel layer must stay because it's the last thing standing between interior and exterior. Wood wouldn't resist weather under the bus as well as the factory steel does. If you want a new plywood layer, it could be fastened with adhesives or bolts/screws. My factory floor was held with a mix of screws and nails actually.

Foam poured/injected into a closed wall cavity is sketchy. The existing fiberglass will make it difficult for the foam to spread throughout. A single-part foam won't cure because it won't have the air or moisture it requires for the chemical reaction. I suppose a two-part foam could cure in that relatively sealed environment.. Another concern would be expansion; foams often expand as they're placed and if it expands with too much force the wall surfaces could be damaged (bubble outward for example).
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:42 PM   #49
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 916
Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
I put two rugs down and moved right in. Had planned to do a playwood floor but this one works fine. I figure if i live a winter here then maybe i will put in a nice floor... but then again i kinda like the rubber bus floor, it makes it feel like a bus.
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:04 PM   #50
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 7,943
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carytowncat View Post
I put two rugs down and moved right in. Had planned to do a playwood floor but this one works fine. I figure if i live a winter here then maybe i will put in a nice floor... but then again i kinda like the rubber bus floor, it makes it feel like a bus.
yeah thats why im keeping my rubber floor.. in the one area my rubber floor is shot the wood is still good except for some hydraulic fluid.. but im thinking I might just put rubber floor right back over it..

then agaib my bus is still a bus except for a few changes... my friends like to ride it.. so I need to have seats

if your bus is metal only and no wood im guessing it was a warm climate bus.. if you are going to winter in it.. id seal the metal.. insualte and drop new wood down then the floor covering of your choice...
-Christopher
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