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Old 07-09-2016, 09:31 PM   #11
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1 1/2 male threaded adapter on out side,rubber seal inside and out1 1/2 female adapter on the inside.
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living in a bus down by the river.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:16 AM   #12
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ive seen people mount 50 gal poly drums under there bus for fresh and gray water. they sell fittings at lowes home depot to attach the lines to the drums
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Anyone have more detail on the Lowes adapters? I cannot find them on thier website.
"bulkhead fitting" is probably the search term you're after.
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Old 07-10-2016, 11:26 AM   #13
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For Grey water I have a 112 gal fuel tank from another bus I had boiled out, I'm using a macerating pump from that to pump into a 37 gal black tank. I'm also using a macerating
toilet plumbed into a Y fitting using the same line the grey to black uses with a check valve to prevent waste back into grey tank,& then another pump from black tank to elect hose reel that will hold 150 ft of collapsible hose.

I am kicking around the idea of just combining grey & black into one tank redoing the plumbing & using the black tank for clear water that would spray a water mist over the intercooler to help dissipate heat.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:47 PM   #14
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Is pvc strong enough to handle going down through the floor to the Grey tank? Why not use robber hose or larger pex for Grey water for flexibility? I have no experience with plumbing so perhaps pvc is good enough. I have tomorrow off so I may do some shopping to get supplies to install my tank. Are there any rubber boots or anything I should look for that would help? I doubt I'll figure out how to actually mount the tank by the end of the day but I've got at least 10 hours allotted for shopping and research strictly for the Grey water. I have only one spot under my bus that will fit my tank so I figure install it with whatever tubing I need and do my plumbing around that.
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Old 07-13-2016, 10:05 PM   #15
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The "conventional way" of connecting rigid drain/waste/vent pipe to a holding tank is to use a tank grommet. One cuts a round hole in the flat wall of the tank and works the grommet into the hole so that the tank wall is in the gap between the two lips or flanges on the grommet. The tall side of the grommet extends out away from the tank; the drain pipe is pushed into that side. The grommet connection allows quite a bit of movement or flexibility between the rigid tank and rigid pipe so that nothing cracks, tears, or breaks.

You're probably asking in regards to that aluminum tank you showed us earlier, aren't you? That's a bit more tricky. The conventional grommet could work in one of the flat ends (maybe) but clearly wouldn't work in the body of the cylinder. Are you trying to plumb into an existing threaded bung in the tank? What's the pipe thread size you're aiming for?
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:58 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stu & Filo. T View Post
For Grey water I have a 112 gal fuel tank from another bus I had boiled out, I'm using a macerating pump from that to pump into a 37 gal black tank. I'm also using a macerating
toilet plumbed into a Y fitting using the same line the grey to black uses with a check valve to prevent waste back into grey tank,& then another pump from black tank to elect hose reel that will hold 150 ft of collapsible hose.

I am kicking around the idea of just combining grey & black into one tank redoing the plumbing & using the black tank for clear water that would spray a water mist over the intercooler to help dissipate heat.

I considered a combined black/grey tank when I did my last conversion. After going back and forth several times I finally decided to go with separate tanks.

I spent about 6 years full time in that rig and I met a handful of folks that had combined black/grey. After talking with them about their experiences I was glad that I had gone with separate tanks.

There are a number of places that you can get rid of grey water that you cannot dump black water. If combined then you cannot dump any of it.
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:01 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
The "conventional way" of connecting rigid drain/waste/vent pipe to a holding tank is to use a tank grommet. One cuts a round hole in the flat wall of the tank and works the grommet into the hole so that the tank wall is in the gap between the two lips or flanges on the grommet. The tall side of the grommet extends out away from the tank; the drain pipe is pushed into that side. The grommet connection allows quite a bit of movement or flexibility between the rigid tank and rigid pipe so that nothing cracks, tears, or breaks.

You're probably asking in regards to that aluminum tank you showed us earlier, aren't you? That's a bit more tricky. The conventional grommet could work in one of the flat ends (maybe) but clearly wouldn't work in the body of the cylinder. Are you trying to plumb into an existing threaded bung in the tank? What's the pipe thread size you're aiming for?
Take a look at the link for "Uniseal" above and you will get a good picture of this kind of connection.

One difference is that the Uniseal will work on a curved tank wall.
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:04 AM   #18
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"bulkhead fitting" is probably the search term you're after.
No, we were talking about a threaded adapter to adapt from Butress thread to NPT.

I never did find them at Lowes but I did find that US Plastics has them for a bit over $7.
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:58 AM   #19
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Ive got a few holes I could use. 2 are flat even tho they are on a curved part of the tank. I am going to try to get my freshwater tank snug with the spot I made for under the bed today and go look at semi trucks to see how they mount the tanks as that is also a struggle to figure out. I will check out said grommets while I'm out
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Old 07-14-2016, 06:16 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
No, we were talking about a threaded adapter to adapt from Butress thread to NPT.

I never did find them at Lowes but I did find that US Plastics has them for a bit over $7.
Google Hayward flow controls HDPE tank fittings they have most of what you are looking for including swivel threaded fittings.
Spin on fittings work good if they work for your application.
I have drilled and tapped 12-6" PVC pipe for smaller condensate drains and plastic drums for rain barrels including barrels 7-8' above the ground with 4" male adapters for the gutter in,2" males to connect multiple barrels and 3/4 boiler drains sorry water spigots for hose connections.
Drill the opening correctly and screw the fitting in.
I salvaged tanks from a 35' coachmen and made them work.
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