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Old 07-08-2016, 07:09 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Making/plumbing your fresh/grey/black water tanks

Been reading for a looong time and I have not come across a good resource on this yet. Lets assume that not everyone can purchase fancy new tanks and have to DIY a bit.

Lets use this space as a guide for each type of tank. We all know they all need venting to easy fill/dump to avoid backup, but what about the size of piping into and out? What about fittings? How are fittings installed on new tanks that have none? What are the best valves to use and appropriate sizes? Looking forward to learning!
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Old 07-08-2016, 08:40 PM   #2
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IF (and that's a BIG word) you choose to go with a black water tank, the commode is mounted directly to the top of the tank and the discharge is connected directly to the stinky slinky via a waste gate. The grey water tank goes through the same discharge gate and is partially used to flush out the black water tank. An alternative to the straight-flow discharge is a macerator; basically a "blender" for the large pieces that chews them into iddy-biddy pieces that go through a hose rather than the slinky.

Some people, yours truly included, opted for the composting toilet. No plumbing necessary. You can dump the compost in a dumpster or a flower garden, but NOT a veggie garden. The liquid is diverted into a large jug that you can pour out on weeds.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:22 PM   #3
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ive seen people mount 50 gal poly drums under there bus for fresh and gray water. they sell fittings at lowes home depot to attach the lines to the drums
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:41 PM   #4
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What diameter of pipes are used for each system? Does it matter? What's a good mounting strategy for the piping under the bus so that it does not get broken due to road vibrations?
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Old 07-08-2016, 10:43 PM   #5
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Old 07-09-2016, 02:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -cycosis- View Post
What diameter of pipes are used for each system? Does it matter? What's a good mounting strategy for the piping under the bus so that it does not get broken due to road vibrations?
The folks I got my bus from have a number of retired road tractors and other trucks they cannibalize for parts. I may see about scavenging a 100 gal aluminum fuel tank and brackets for waste water, all I'd have to do is drill the corresponding holes through the "web" (not flanges!) of the frame and bolt everything right up. The frame may even have holes from the factory; if so, that makes it all that much easier. The tank would need to have some suitable drainage welding done (maybe a 4" thread for plumbing) ... the whole thing would be nice and strong and already factory engineered to withstand the vibration and movement on the road.
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Old 07-09-2016, 10:46 AM   #7
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I just got a 110 gal aluminum fuel tank with the straps for grey water. I have yet to truly figure out how I am going to mount it. The straps don't wrap all the way around. It's like one is supposed to mount on a vertical and one on a horizontal which means I'd be putting a hole in the floor for the horizontal. I'm guessing I need a giant washer for the hole in the floor and just drill into my subfloor and cap it once attached. There are a few holes in it already. Hoping I can just use those since some are threaded and cap the rest. I hear it's hard to weld aluminum.




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Old 07-09-2016, 12:10 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by -cycosis- View Post
What diameter of pipes are used for each system? Does it matter? What's a good mounting strategy for the piping under the bus so that it does not get broken due to road vibrations?

Standard is 1.5" grey and 3" for black.

I put "conventional" tankage in my last bus. My next one will not have a black tank and I may well look at 55 gallon poly drums. Anyone have more detail on the Lowes adapters? I cannot find them on thier website.
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:07 PM   #9
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Ok. So lets say you have a brand new rectangular polyethylene tank that is rated for potable water. If its your grey water tank, you are attaching 1.5" pvc plumbing piping to it. Whats the process? Drill out of 1.5" hole then attach a slip fitting? How do you mate the two pieces so that they are strong and water tight?
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Old 07-09-2016, 02:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -cycosis- View Post
Ok. So lets say you have a brand new rectangular polyethylene tank that is rated for potable water. If its your grey water tank, you are attaching 1.5" pvc plumbing piping to it. Whats the process? Drill out of 1.5" hole then attach a slip fitting? How do you mate the two pieces so that they are strong and water tight?

When I bought brand new tanks I simply told the tank manufacturer where to place the connections for the various inlets, vents & drains for each tank and they installed a fitting in each location that I could glue PVC or ABS pipe to.

I am not certain what the fitting material was. I believe that it was "welded" in using a hot air plastic welder as you cannot effectively glue poly tanks.

For DIY I would look at "spin weld" fittings or MAYBE Uniseals. I have used Uniseals very effectively in poly tanks in stationary applications. I have not tried them in a mobile application.

I am looking at 55 gallon poly drums and spinweld for my next bus.

Uniseal: Uniseal - Bulk Reef Supply

One warning: Do not use them in thin walled containers. The website says that you can use them on buckets and trash cans. I tried this and 18 of 18 failed. On heavier material they work fantastic.

Spinweld: Spin Weld Fittings

I have not used these yet but have heard of good success in RV applications.
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