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Old 04-09-2017, 01:16 PM   #11
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 166
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
FWIW, I installed my MaxxAire one space down from my sealed over hatch. I used 16ga sheet metal to cover the hatch, and I'm pretty sure that it would have supported the fan without any additional bracing, but the location did not work for my floor plan. I installed the fan by cutting a 14x14 square in the original bus roof/sheet metal and then I used butyl tape and screws to secure it. I did not install any additional bracing and I don't think it needs it, after all the roof supported my fat ass with no problems...
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Old 04-11-2017, 05:27 PM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Calgary
Posts: 66
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Pics on the interior of install? did you run conduit up to the fan?
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Old 04-11-2017, 05:58 PM   #13
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 166
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
I will try to get some pics of the fan, but I have the ceiling up for the most part and the trim installed so it is hard to see. I did not run conduit, I just ran the wires between the two layers of poly iso board.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:18 PM   #14
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,217
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
An adapter ring to take a 20" square down to 14" square only needs to be 3" wide on every side plus whatever amount of lap is wanted to the original surface. It isn't as if a person can expect to stand on that fan anyway, so 16 and 18 gauge should be plenty stiff to carry the weight of the fan and prevent it flapping in the breeze. If you like you could cut the 14" hole undersize at 13" or even 12.75" and use a hammer and dolly (scrap of steel, block of wood, whatever) to fold a flange around the perimeter of the cut-out. That'll stiffen it significantly.
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