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Old 04-04-2017, 08:06 PM   #1
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Maxxair Fan install model 4500K

I am looking at Maxxair 12v fan, model 4500K. I would like to remove the emergency hatch on the roof and replace it with the fan. I've searched and find examples of people doing it but not much in the way of details.

If anyone has any info on installing these sorts of fans in the emergency hatch space I would love to hear from you.

Thanks!

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Old 04-04-2017, 09:30 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Zizzer View Post
I am looking at Maxxair 12v fan, model 4500K. I would like to remove the emergency hatch on the roof and replace it with the fan. I've searched and find examples of people doing it but not much in the way of details.

If anyone has any info on installing these sorts of fans in the emergency hatch space I would love to hear from you.

Thanks!
I'm about to eliminate my hatch and install a vent with fan. What are you wanting to know?
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:51 AM   #3
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I too am looking to do this. I have 20 gauge galvanized steel I'd like to use to cover the hole from the old hatch. Will I need to build a frame for the fan to mount it to or is the 20 g steel sheet strong enough to hold it? I plan to secure the panel to the roof using tap screws and 3M seam sealer.
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Old 04-05-2017, 09:46 AM   #4
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Would probably "hold" it but 20g is awfully lightweight (I just cut a bunch of it with heavy duty scissors). Personally I'd go with something as close to the bus skin as possible. Most likely around 16g.

And remember...if using galvanized...you absolutely must etch it in order to get paint to adhere.
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Old 04-05-2017, 11:58 AM   #5
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I painted galvanized with self-etching primer.. not sure if that was the right way to go or not but it seems to have worked in the past.
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Old 04-05-2017, 04:08 PM   #6
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Would probably "hold" it but 20g is awfully lightweight (I just cut a bunch of it with heavy duty scissors). Personally I'd go with something as close to the bus skin as possible. Most likely around 16g.

And remember...if using galvanized...you absolutely must etch it in order to get paint to adhere.
Yeah, I'd go with 18ga. That's what my buses and the Bluebird I've de-riveted are made of. But 20 will be fine. You can build a bit of bracing/framing behind it if you need to.
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:58 PM   #7
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Sorry for the lag. It's been a crazy few days. I'm about to get hit by the mother of all storms and I've had to clean up a bunch for getting the house on the market ... and so it doesn't blow away in the pending wind, rain, hail , and tornadoes.

YAY!

The hatch measures about 20x20 inches. Measured from inside the body with the interior ceiling and insulation removed.

The Maxxair fan, according to spec requires a 14x14 hole and needs enough support to hold the thing up going down the road.
How does one go about building that sort of structure to support the fan? Pictures?
Might it be possible and or easier to install the fan off center between two supports that are closer together? This would leave the emergency hatch but create a new hole in the roof.

On Friday, after the storm is over I am taking my bus to a local shade tree mechanic to have some roof work done. While he's up there I'm going to have him install the solar panels and if I can manage it, the fan as well.

I'm trying to better understand the options of how to install this thing. I am also curious to hear your thoughts on costs associated with having this installed. How much work it REALLY entails, how long it might take a professional, and anything I should watch out for if he wants to be creative.
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Old 04-08-2017, 08:58 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Yeah, I'd go with 18ga. That's what my buses and the Bluebird I've de-riveted are made of. But 20 will be fine. You can build a bit of bracing/framing behind it if you need to.
Thanks CB.

I'll probably use some brackets or even just use the 1" square tubing I have and weld two cross braces between the ribs, lengthwise to the bus. I can cover up the jerry-rig with trim and the roof material
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Old 04-08-2017, 10:49 AM   #9
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Thanks CB.

I'll probably use some brackets or even just use the 1" square tubing I have and weld two cross braces between the ribs, lengthwise to the bus. I can cover up the jerry-rig with trim and the roof material
Yeah, I'd suggest the square tubing. But even some wood would do.
The extra bracing MAY not be necessary, but certainly won't hurt. I'll be using sq tubing.
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Old 04-08-2017, 11:10 PM   #10
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Thanks all!

Perhaps the answer realy is ... depends.

I know I need help with the roof. While he's up there I will have him install the brackets for the solar panels. The fan arrives Monday and I'll just have to see how he's comfortable doing and how much he wants.for the job.

Bottom line is I don't really belong crawling on top of this thing too much so I'm gonna need help one way or another. The question now is do I suffer with just a little clip fan and hope I find some help along the way or pay someone to rough it in?
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Old 04-09-2017, 01:16 PM   #11
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FWIW, I installed my MaxxAire one space down from my sealed over hatch. I used 16ga sheet metal to cover the hatch, and I'm pretty sure that it would have supported the fan without any additional bracing, but the location did not work for my floor plan. I installed the fan by cutting a 14x14 square in the original bus roof/sheet metal and then I used butyl tape and screws to secure it. I did not install any additional bracing and I don't think it needs it, after all the roof supported my fat ass with no problems...
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Old 04-11-2017, 05:27 PM   #12
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Pics on the interior of install? did you run conduit up to the fan?
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Old 04-11-2017, 05:58 PM   #13
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I will try to get some pics of the fan, but I have the ceiling up for the most part and the trim installed so it is hard to see. I did not run conduit, I just ran the wires between the two layers of poly iso board.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:18 PM   #14
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An adapter ring to take a 20" square down to 14" square only needs to be 3" wide on every side plus whatever amount of lap is wanted to the original surface. It isn't as if a person can expect to stand on that fan anyway, so 16 and 18 gauge should be plenty stiff to carry the weight of the fan and prevent it flapping in the breeze. If you like you could cut the 14" hole undersize at 13" or even 12.75" and use a hammer and dolly (scrap of steel, block of wood, whatever) to fold a flange around the perimeter of the cut-out. That'll stiffen it significantly.
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Old 10-29-2021, 04:00 PM   #15
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MaxxFan Quantity For Bus

Hello wonderful skoolie family! Question: Will I need one or two MaxxFans for my 35 foot school bus?
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Old 10-29-2021, 04:07 PM   #16
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2 fans, one in front and one in rear will help circulate air through the bus. Have one sucking and one blowing. I still need to trim out the inside with a wood surround.


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Old 10-29-2021, 04:23 PM   #17
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[QUOTE=o1marc;457318]2 fans, one in front and one in rear will help circulate air through the bus. Have one sucking and one blowing. I still need to trim out the inside with a wood surround.



THANK YOU for the speedy reply! So I'll need two then. Got it!
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Old 10-29-2021, 05:24 PM   #18
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[QUOTE=Purple Gypsy;457319]
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2 fans, one in front and one in rear will help circulate air through the bus. Have one sucking and one blowing. I still need to trim out the inside with a wood surround.



THANK YOU for the speedy reply! So I'll need two then. Got it!
2 won't hurt, but an open window up front and the fan on in the back will circulate air also. If you have the budget for 2, go for it.
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Old 10-29-2021, 05:37 PM   #19
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Hello wonderful skoolie family! Question: Will I need one or two MaxxFans for my 35 foot school bus?
2 is better than 1. Can't have too much ventilation in a tin can.
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Old 10-29-2021, 05:51 PM   #20
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2 is better than 1. Can't have too much ventilation in a tin can.

Bingo. We've got 2 Maxxair fans but one of the best things we did is hang a magnetic screen door in the back emergency door and put screens in the windows. It keeps the inside temps right around the temp outside.
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