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Old 06-11-2015, 02:02 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: May 2015
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Need help with heater removal

what's the best way to remove the heaters from the inside of the bus?
Also where and how do I cap the lines?

Is some leakage normal when trying to remove the heaters?

Thanks
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:38 AM   #2
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There is a LOT of coolant in those lines and in the the heaters as well. The lines may also feed the heat/defroster in the front. Not sure how universal these systems are when comparing front-engine to rear-engine. On my rear-engine Thomas, I had to close 2 valves in the engine compartment to keep the coolant from flowing. Then, I disconnected the lines at the heater/defroster unit at the very front since it was the lowest point and drained it all into buckets and the shop floor. I'm sure there's an easier way. As for capping the lines, I used rubber corks with screws in them. Once those valves are closed, even if you trip the water pump switch, nothing will flow. Kepp in mind that if the system is connected to your defroster, that will not be in service any longer.

I will be rigging up my own defroster system, so I never planned on keep anything. Some of the hoses had to be cut off the connectors and I still havent removed all of the rest of the system yet. If you see a wire following those coolant lines, it most likely goes to the pump.
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Old 06-11-2015, 04:17 AM   #3
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Keep em. They provide 50k+ btu's each and can act as an emergency radiator of sorts.
I'm putting two of them in the drivers area and one in the restroom.

I drove my bus home with icicles literally hanging from the ceiling. Road heat is essential!
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Old 06-11-2015, 10:13 AM   #4
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In case you want to remove some and keep others, you can re-close the coolant circuit with a pipe fitting. I found a 1 inch barbed coupler in the irrigation poly pipe section at Lowe's. They had them in plastic and galvanized steel... pay a few cents extra for the steel, obviously! This fit my coolant hoses nicely. I also noticed my heaters appeared to have copper elbows sweated onto them, so you may find that copper 3/4 inch fittings can work too.

If you're going to abandon the line, I'd suggest disconnecting it at the valve and draining it rather than capping and leaving it filled. No particular reason; it just seems wrong to leave a dead-end pipe filled with fluid and shut off at the valve. Capping after draining might be good to keep dirt and critters away.
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Old 06-11-2015, 11:20 AM   #5
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I have even used a few on farm equipment to help cool the unit while stopped. I mounted one of them under the 3 ton tree spade truck.

Works great.

Nat
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Old 06-13-2015, 09:37 AM   #6
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Thanks everyone
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Old 07-23-2016, 03:58 AM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Yeah... Can I Keep The 2 Heaters But Move Them..?

There's 2, they have filters on them that are nasty. Pics here:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/member...albums968.html


Any help appreciated, thx
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Old 07-23-2016, 07:19 AM   #8
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are you talking about only the rear / mid units or also your front heating systems? you can move them wherever you like... or you can replace them with compoletely different units if you want something that will physically fit better or want new because the old one has too many things wrong with it...

I recently completely rebuilt the driver heater console with 2 new heater cores and even a Dashboard A/C..

Jegs and ProAir make some nice smalkler heaters that you can simply install in place of the bus heaters.. you just need 12 volts for the fan and the coolant lines..

the coolant lines in a school bus are typically 1 inch. if you use automotive heaters they will be 5/8". you can get adapters.. (I ordered them online).. be sure to close off the valves before you disconnect the lines to remove or move a heater... even so you WILL GET LOTS! of coolant on the bus floor...

-Christopher
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Old 07-23-2016, 01:33 PM   #9
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just the rear ones.
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Old 07-23-2016, 01:43 PM   #10
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A lot of leakage is normal...

If the driver's heat is on the same line as the two rear units, you have to cut both hoses in front of the first exchanger and connect the two hoses with a union and clamps. You still need the hot collant flow for the driver's unit. If they're using separate runs, turn off the valves feeding the rear exhangers, disconnect the hoses at the valves and remove the exchangers and hoses.

Good luck!
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