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Old 02-02-2017, 11:33 PM   #41
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Do people have a reason for trying to use odd paints like Rustoleum mixes instead of just buying purpose made auto paint? The paintforcars.com website has single stage enamels and lacquers for about forty or fifty dollars a gallon. (I've never used it - maybe it sucks?) It seems like you could buy or rent an HVLP unit and take a lot less trouble with the whole process and get a better result, especially considering how much time, effort, and money people spend on other parts of the builds.

Is this strictly a cost saving measure?
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:52 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Rainman4040 View Post
-SherKem 400 Primer
-SherKem High Gloss Metal Enamel (Sherwin Williams they were able to color match)
Do you mind if I ask what you paid for the SherKem per gallon? How many gallons did you use?
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:16 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by lucasd View Post
Do people have a reason for trying to use odd paints like Rustoleum mixes instead of just buying purpose made auto paint? The paintforcars.com website has single stage enamels and lacquers for about forty or fifty dollars a gallon. (I've never used it - maybe it sucks?) It seems like you could buy or rent an HVLP unit and take a lot less trouble with the whole process and get a better result, especially considering how much time, effort, and money people spend on other parts of the builds.

Is this strictly a cost saving measure?
My personal observation is that most people think that oil based finishes are superior, and this generally means two stage because a clear coat has to be added to reduce the chances of oxidation which oil based paints are prone to experience. Clear coats provide UV protection (2nd Stage). Today's acrylic paints have UV protection built into the paint and are just as hard and resilient as their oil equiv. I will say though, that getting water borne paints to lay out smoothly with no orange peel can be tough as they tend to dry much faster than oil based finishes.

10 years ago I would have agreed that oil based finishes were superior, but the advances in acrylic alkyds have surpassed oil finishes IMHO. Combined with a clear coat or not, they are just as good and half as messy/smelly.

I wrote up some info based on my refinishing and restoration work in another thread if anyone is interested - http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/he...tml#post180964

I will definitely be applying the finish on our bus with an HVLP gun. I have a The cheapo from Harbor Freight is actually pretty good. Just go with the turbine version - not that compressed air version - so much better. Catch it with a 20-25% off coupon and it is a heck of a deal.

The key is to never leave paint in the gun and make sure to thin the paint - I have never used an HVLP that I did not have to thin the paint/primer.
High Volume, Low Pressure Spray Gun Kit


You can also rent a nice Graco ProFinish gun from most Sunbelt stores. Here in Nashville, there is only one store that has them, but to rent for a whole week was only $60. The Graco turbine guns are great machines as well. Heck, even the newer Wagner Power painters are pretty slick. They are essentially a turbine HVLP gun all in one with no hose!
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:04 AM   #44
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Nice to know! I've seen claims that the turbine versions were only good for house paint due to some issue of giving inconsistent results with the thinner paints targeted for cars. I'm glad to see it's possible to get decent results with one.
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Old 02-03-2017, 10:09 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by lucasd View Post
Nice to know! I've seen claims that the turbine versions were only good for house paint due to some issue of giving inconsistent results with the thinner paints targeted for cars. I'm glad to see it's possible to get decent results with one.
My experience has been that almost all good paints are usually too thick for turbine HVLP guns, they almost always have to be thinned. But this is based on the stock tip that comes with the machine. You can buy other sized tips that will work for thinner materials. Unfortunately, HF does not sell other tips, so you have to go after market on Amazon. The HF unit is a rebrand of a popular one you will see on the web, not hard to find tips for it.
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Old 02-03-2017, 12:26 PM   #46
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Nice thing about this forum is that it is OK to disagree. That said, I'd probably use a mop before I'd use that HF turbine toy. The finish it produces won't be pleasing and it will take forever to get the paint job done. The HF top loading quart size HVLP works surprisingly well with properly thinned paint (oil or acrylic but no water based) and enough cfm's (10 or more at about 45 psi). I've been spray painting cars since I was 9 yrs old. The first job was done with a hand held Hudson bug sprayer. A buddy and I took turns holding and pumping and after an entire day's work we both had blisters on our hands and a freshly painted 1950 Pontiac. The finish turned out shinny but had the texture of cottage cheese. I graduated to a vacuum cleaner powered " turbine??" sprayer I bought from an ad in "Popular Mechanics". It really wasn't much better. By the time I was 11 I had talked my mother into renting an air compressor and a Binks spray gun--it was love at first squirt. In the 60 odd years since that first spray job I've tried many types of spray guns. While I do use a $60 HF HVLP for small patching jobs, I use my "good" gun (Accuspray at about $600) for completes.The savings in materials alone paid for the gun in about 4 paint jobs. For example, it took just under one gallon of mixed acrylic paint to completely paint my bus with two coats of single stage acrylic and the finish is smooth and shinny.

Tricks of a successful paint job:
1) Proper mixing/ thinning/time between coats per MDS
2) Adjust spray fan (cone) to apply a vertically rich application of paint sort of like
what you'd get with a paint brush
3) Keep the nozzle at 90 degrees from whatever surface you are painting at all times
never scribing an arc.
4) As you begin a spray pass first engage the air, then the paint. As you come to the
end of a pass, stop the flow of paint and then the air and complete the pass. This technique will eliminate the over spray that ends up looking like sand paper at the beginning and end of each pass. Plan
on a 50% overlap of the last pass. A medium wet coat will give the best results.
5) Practice spraying water on a smooth wall to get the feel for how your gun works.
Once you are comfortable with that, mix up a little paint and practice on a junk car
or something until you feel like a pro.

Wear an isocyanite type air filter as all the modern paints are very nasty.

Its a kick to paint once you get the hang of it! Jack
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:25 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post

Its a kick to paint once you get the hang of it! Jack
This guy knows how to paint. ^^^

I have my Binks 2000HVLP w/ pressure pot for finish paint, love the cheapo guns for other stuff. Maintain your gun- it must have packing lubed and be clean clean clean. Gun rebuild kits are cheap. Changeout lines between pot and gun, else pay price.

VERY important to get consistency right- and consistent. They sell plastic viscosity cup for few bucks.

VERY important to thin with proper reducer for formulation of paint. Does not take much, either.

Quick spraying cars, they will combine color, reducer, clear topcoat and hardner for one shot, but know your chemistry. I prefer separating coats for wet sand between on cars, but on a bus- go for it. There is no way to sand around those rivets.

Multiple thin coats will yield better results than 1 thick coat. Adjust air pressure and fan size, turn schnozzle 1/4 to change orientation.

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Old 02-03-2017, 02:44 PM   #48
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As is the case with all things in life, there are degrees of effort here. Based on the OP request, I am guessing that he is shooting for the best job for the cheapest price/effort. It is very possible to use inexpensive tools and methods to paint your bus. While I would not use the $120 HVLP gun from HF for painting a car or customer work, I would totally recommend it for painting a bus. I have a $2500 Graco 5 stage turbine HVLP for the real work that I do refinishing furniture.

ol trunt, it sounds like you have a good bit of experience and I do not want to discount that. I understand how hard painting cars are, I have painted a few of them myself, and none of them really good. All of your comments are top notch for giving someone the basics of sprayed finishes.
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:54 PM   #49
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I was planning on using my "auto body skills" from vocational school back when I was 17. But I may just roll mine on if I can't find someone to spray it. I have a buddy who paints cars, but he's having some drinking issues these days and hasn't been too available.
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Old 02-03-2017, 03:37 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
Tricks of a successful paint job:
1) Proper mixing/ thinning/time between coats per MDS
2) Adjust spray fan (cone) to apply a vertically rich application of paint sort of like
what you'd get with a paint brush
3) Keep the nozzle at 90 degrees from whatever surface you are painting at all times
never scribing an arc.
4) As you begin a spray pass first engage the air, then the paint. As you come to the
end of a pass, stop the flow of paint and then the air and complete the pass. This technique will eliminate the over spray that ends up looking like sand paper at the beginning and end of each pass. Plan
on a 50% overlap of the last pass. A medium wet coat will give the best results.
5) Practice spraying water on a smooth wall to get the feel for how your gun works.
Once you are comfortable with that, mix up a little paint and practice on a junk car
or something until you feel like a pro.

Wear an isocyanite type air filter as all the modern paints are very nasty.

Its a kick to paint once you get the hang of it! Jack
One of the moderators should make this post a sticky...
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