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Old 04-27-2016, 07:13 PM   #11
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Battery clamps need to be bright and shiny and the clamp needs to tighten down enough that you can not move them (twist,turn,wiggle) by hand at a minimum.
The ground cable wiring should not be visible unless it is one in a clear cable coating that they make for show cars/vehicles and if that is the case then your ground cable is probably the wrong size?
Without knowing what engine you have we can only guess?
Another option you can try when you get to your bus.
If your battery is good and the bus starts you can hold a screw driver to the back center of the alternator it should have some magnetism (feel like there is a small magnet in it) not going to hold a regular screw driver but you should be able to tell.
If you have to jump the battery to get the bus started then do just enough to start the bus and remove the jumper cables then remove the positive/red cable to the battery. After a few? If the alternator is charging then the bus keeps running and if not the bus will Shutdown therefore you need a new alternator and also an excuse to spend a little more money to upgrade. To a higher output alternator if you plan on additions later.
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Old 04-27-2016, 07:35 PM   #12
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Ok, thanks a lot! Will definitely clean up the connections and make sure they are super secure.

Would you recommend getting the casing for the wire replaced then? The casing isn't broken or anything, about an inch of the inner wires are just visible near the end.

Will try this with the alternator too. If there is some magnetism thats a good thing?
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:00 PM   #13
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You can usually get a battery terminal cleaner for a buck or so. Primarily you need to clean the contact areas where the clamp contacts to the battery post, not the entire post clamp. Shiny is pretty though.
You could also take a look at your negative ground to the frame which occasionally corrodes during periods of non-use. Just unbolt it from the frame, polish the contact areas with a piece of sandpaper or a file between the frame and cable end. Reattach the cable to the frame snugly and smear on a bit of grease over the connection for oxidation prevention. Good for another 20 years.
I am not the best mechanic here, but I am trying to explore the inexpensive fixes before looking at alternator replacement. On the other hand if you don't already have a high output alternator it is something you should explore if you're going to carry house batteries.
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:31 PM   #14
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:07 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396 View Post
You can usually get a battery terminal cleaner for a buck or so. Primarily you need to clean the contact areas where the clamp contacts to the battery post, not the entire post clamp. Shiny is pretty though.
You could also take a look at your negative ground to the frame which occasionally corrodes during periods of non-use. Just unbolt it from the frame, polish the contact areas with a piece of sandpaper or a file between the frame and cable end. Reattach the cable to the frame snugly and smear on a bit of grease over the connection for oxidation prevention. Good for another 20 years.
I am not the best mechanic here, but I am trying to explore the inexpensive fixes before looking at alternator replacement. On the other hand if you don't already have a high output alternator it is something you should explore if you're going to carry house batteries.
Alright, thanks a ton for the advice Will pick up some cleaner and be sure that negative ground to the frame is good.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:11 PM   #16
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Alternator has nothing to do with bus starting on a brand new battery. You have a disconnect somewhere between the starter and the battery. That was my point.

If you have wires showing through the insulation on the cable, replace the cables. They can arc to ground and short out if you have a tight battery compartment. Shorting out could possibly lead to a fire. Noone wants to see you driving a 30+ foot flaming 27,000 lb torpedoe.....well maybe Cal does....

Fix one problem at a time. You will get 600 different check this comments about 4 issues in 1 day.

Brake lines are hydraulic, air hoses are air brakes. Does your bus run for 15 minutes and give off that hissing noise a semi does when it parks???

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Old 04-27-2016, 10:20 PM   #17
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well maybe Cal does....
I don't want to see any such thing. My feelings about this are if you don't know if you do or don't have air brakes not BREAKS, you have no business sitting behind the wheel. All else doesn't bother me at all.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:24 PM   #18
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Cal- I don't drive it, my partner does, so don't you worry my sir. I agree with you - I have no business behind the wheel. He's out of service with the bus in northern Ontario and i'm trying to trouble shoot for him.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:31 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Docsgsxr View Post
Alternator has nothing to do with bus starting on a brand new battery. You have a disconnect somewhere between the starter and the battery. That was my point.

If you have wires showing through the insulation on the cable, replace the cables. They can arc to ground and short out if you have a tight battery compartment. Shorting out could possibly lead to a fire. Noone wants to see you driving a 30+ foot flaming 27,000 lb torpedoe.....well maybe Cal does....

Fix one problem at a time. You will get 600 different check this comments about 4 issues in 1 day.

Brake lines are hydraulic, air hoses are air brakes. Does your bus run for 15 minutes and give off that hissing noise a semi does when it parks???

-Doc
No, it doesn't make any hissing noise that I have noticed, it runs fine when it starts.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:32 PM   #20
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I don't want to see any such thing. My feelings about this are if you don't know if you do or don't have air brakes not BREAKS, you have no business sitting behind the wheel. All else doesn't bother me at all.
Just teasing bub, just teasing......
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