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Old 04-27-2016, 10:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Forest-Bus View Post
Also, heating system doesn't work, don't know if this is new however. I don't know if they ever worked.
You received many intelligent comments about the battery issue and I have nothing to add to that conversation, but I may be able to help with the heat.

The first items to check are the few coolant valves, the handles of which will look like your typical outdoor faucet. You'll likely find one next to your left foot as you sit in the driver's seat. Open that valve all the way. Next, you'll likely find two valves under the hood - probably on the right side of the engine. Open those as well. Good luck!
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:34 PM   #22
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No, it doesn't make any hissing noise that I have noticed, it runs fine when it starts.
Then you have hydraulic or conventional brakes. But let's deal with the starting problem first.

Sound good??
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:46 PM   #23
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Yes Thanks for being so helpful. Like I said I don't have the bus with me, but my partner will be in service in the morning and is going to start trouble shooting based on these recommendations.
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:50 PM   #24
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If it was me, I would start by checking to see if the alternator was putting out at least 14+ volts. Then check all the wires and connections to be certain they are clean and secure. You should also check for anything drawing power like radio, lights, etc. I just picked up a bus that had dead batteries. The interior lights were on. I went from switch to switch. Turns out the bus barn robbed parts off of the bus while sitting in the yard. They took the back door latch off for another bus. The part they put back on was broken and wouldn't reach the switch so the lights stayed on 24/7 sucking the life out of the batteries. Not a big problem except if you have dead batteries in the morning.
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Old 04-27-2016, 11:03 PM   #25
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Just teasing bub, just teasing......
I know. I just don't want someone else thinking I want to see some going down in flames.

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Then you have hydraulic or conventional brakes. But let's deal with the starting problem first.

Sound good??

This is a stab in the dark. I have one International that has hydraulic brakes. If the bus is not running and you step on the brakes, I hear a pump going. It is obviously electrically powered. Something is draining your battery. You need to start from one end and work your way all the way through the bus.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:25 AM   #26
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So we look the battery to get tested and the battery tested perfectly fine. We tested the volts, cold cranking amps and load tested it and everything was fine, but it wouldn't start the bus!!!
This doesn't tell me it's an alternator. But what ever the OP wants to get into...... I won't argue.
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:35 AM   #27
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This doesn't tell me it's an alternator. But what ever the OP wants to get into...... I won't argue.
I think we have ruled out the alternator for the most part.
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Old 04-28-2016, 12:16 PM   #28
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The first time you deep discharge a starting battery, it will never be the same again. If you bring it in for a "test" batteries can take a surface charge, and indicate a carrying voltage that appears to be high enough. In order to test a battery properly you need a real load on it.


So the first problem is something is causing a parasitic draw on your starting battery, which permanently damages the battery from taking a full charge in the future.

This then begets other problems:

battery can't take a charge causes inadqueate cranking speed, makes engine not start, and puts lots of strain on starter motor.

If it does start, the alternator is working overtime to sink current into the battery that won't take the charge. Instead you just lose the alternator output to heat.

Put a known good* battery (* a battery that starts other vehicles, not one that "tests" good) and see if vehicle starts. If it does, next check for parasitic draw. With everything off on the bus, put a multimeter in amperage measurement mode across positive terminal. It should be ZERO amps. If it is not, the battery will run down.

You will need to find where the draw is coming from. In vehicles with auto resetting circuit breakers, you might need to unscrew the circuits one at a time and check for draws. If you have fuses or manual breakers, trip one at a time or pull fuses until the draw goes away or changes.

Chase down each draw and determine if there's a switch or a light or something pulling current. It could simply be something like a bad ignition switch drawing current all the time, for example.



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I think we have ruled out the alternator for the most part.
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Old 04-28-2016, 04:02 PM   #29
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the one thing sticks in my mind here...

battery 1 - original battery that was in bus failed to start the bus

battery 2 - was the First replacement.. started the bus ONCE and the bus was driven, shut off and attempted jump... jumping a diesel with a regular car is quite often a faiure..

battery 3 - Second replacement started the Bus ONCE and it was driven... then failed to start the bus...

so the common theme here is that Each battery started the bus once and then failed.. which says to me those batteries when first placed were charged enough to start the bus but were never recharged during the driving that commenced..

so how have we ruled out the akternator??

this is a 1991 international - just like mine.. which is fully mechanical.. once started it will run forever without electricity..

the brake pedal seizing is due to the pump not running that gives you your power asist.. likely due to lack of electricity..

same with the heaters.. ie if the fans never came on and you were dirivign daytime.. you may have had no electricity..

if the fans were blowing cold air.. then maybe one of the previously mentioned valves are closed.. or perhaps the fan belt was slipped off the engine which would cause no heat and no charge... thogh not likely since you drove 600 Kms..

yes I agree battery cables, conenctions, etc are likely bad.. but still sounds like the charing system may not be doing its job.. so chec the alternator AND check all of the other cables and connections as noted because they can also be a source of the failure...

your bus should have a volt-meter on the dashboard.. when you get it started again.. rev it up a couple tiems and turn on the headlights which places enough of a load on the alternator to turn on the regulator.. and then observe the dashboard volt gauge.. it should go to between 13 and 14... if it does even when things like fans, lights, etc are on then its good...

-Christopher
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:36 PM   #30
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Update

It was a ground issue!

Made sure there was a good clean ground connection and the bus started up no problem. My partner finally got the chance to take a good look at it today and all is now running smoothly.

Thanks for the help.
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