Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-08-2017, 07:57 AM   #1
Bus Crazy
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 2,075
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Reskinning bus after roof raise ... question about measuring.

So, all of my interior skins are down and I'm ready to measure for new skins. If you've done a roof raise or seen a roof raise, please let me know how to measure.

On my bus, I have 8 feet on center from what would be the A pillar to the window behind the driver's seat. This is where the convenient stops. The rear is 7 feet on center to a rib. Now for the real questions... I'm thinking I want to alternate the skin from one side to the other. Use a single sheet to the 8 feet on port and then use a 10~12 foot sheet and go to the next rib on starboard or something like that. The door is 40" so I could stagger using it. Thereafter all of the ribs are 25 or 32 inch on center. Nothing remotely standard for sheet metal.

Next question is about overlapping. The ribs are a C channel like below... They measure at least 2 inches from edge to edge. I think they measure closer to 3 inches actually with A, B, and C all being roughly 1 inch each. Is that enough overlap? So, for the red sheet I should, "shingle" it as in 1 or alternately "stack" them like 2? I don't remember how the bus is put together OEM. I'll have to remember to look at that this afternoon. As long as C and D are 5 feet apart the "crooked" sheets of 1 won't be too noticeable.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Sheet Metal Overlap.jpg (66.8 KB, 78 views)
__________________
The slow documentation of the build...
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/9...ome-17761.html
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 10:06 AM   #2
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: iowa
Posts: 189
Year: 1998
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: chevy
Engine: 3116 catapillar
Rated Cap: formerly 71 now 2 or 4
started cutting my roof yesterday im using 4'x10' sheets and covering all windows going to take first row of rivets out above windows and tuck my steel in and drill the same holes and use carriage bolts #12 x 1/2 as far as the bottom im welding it on the inside im doing a 20" raise from just behind the drivers seat and add a taper up there as a flat collects lots of bugs
mmoore6856 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 10:24 AM   #3
Bus Crazy
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 2,075
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoore6856 View Post
started cutting my roof yesterday im using 4'x10' sheets and covering all windows going to take first row of rivets out above windows and tuck my steel in and drill the same holes and use carriage bolts #12 x 1/2 as far as the bottom im welding it on the inside im doing a 20" raise from just behind the drivers seat and add a taper up there as a flat collects lots of bugs
4'x10' doesn't line up pretty with the ribs on my bus.

What's your overall height going to be? I want to keep mine under 12'. I'm currently at 10' even at the top of the beacon. I'm also thinking about "raising" the floor. Have 8~12" under floor storage. I know a 4' sheet with 3" top and bottom overlap will give me an 18" raise (covering the windows entirely). If I split the raise between floor and ceiling... Or if I need less than 3" overlap top and bottom... then I'll have more I can split.

I do want the new metal under the rub rail but I don't know if I need it under both sets of rivets or just one.
__________________
The slow documentation of the build...
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/9...ome-17761.html
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 11:11 AM   #4
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 5,858
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
10' sections are handy to work with in one way but very difficult to place and secure properly without a lot of oil canning. Make sure they stay warm/hot enough to elongate a little as you apply.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 11:23 AM   #5
Bus Crazy
 
Rusty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 1,447
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post

Next question is about overlapping. The ribs are a C channel like below... They measure at least 2 inches from edge to edge. I think they measure closer to 3 inches actually with A, B, and C all being roughly 1 inch each. Is that enough overlap? So, for the red sheet I should, "shingle" it as in 1 or alternately "stack" them like 2? I don't remember how the bus is put together OEM. I'll have to remember to look at that this afternoon. As long as C and D are 5 feet apart the "crooked" sheets of 1 won't be too noticeable.
My bus came with no side windows at all and they lapped the sheets. You want to lap from top-down and front to back to keep water infiltration to a minimum at seams. Think cedar shake roof.
__________________
Big and slow...
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 12:18 PM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 2,075
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
My bus came with no side windows at all and they lapped the sheets. You want to lap from top-down and front to back to keep water infiltration to a minimum at seams. Think cedar shake roof.
Makes sense but I wasn't even thinking about it at 60mph thru the rain. Good point.
__________________
The slow documentation of the build...
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/9...ome-17761.html
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 12:19 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 2,075
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Make sure they stay warm/hot enough to elongate a little as you apply.
That might be a problem.... especially if I wait until Oct.
__________________
The slow documentation of the build...
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/9...ome-17761.html
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 12:31 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,287
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
I've just finished hanging the big pieces on my bus. They're shingle-lapped as in your drawing 1 and in Rusty's description so that water falling down or blowing rearward while driving doesn't easily find its way in. The storage bin frames went on first, then the panel over the engine, then each panel working forward on the bottom row (about 39" tall). Next the upper panel at the rear, and again working forward to the windshield (48" wide panels). I didn't really like having it four plies thick at the five points where two upper and two lower sheets came together, but it is what it is. The stack-up could have been limited to three plies by staggering the upper and lower courses.

We took advantage of the hotter-than-usual July here and worked in full afternoon sun about 1 pm to maybe 7 pm on days when the forecast was for highs of 95 F or higher in hopes that the panels would expand under the solar heat. Hopefully that'll be adequate to prevent oil-canning later under the heat of spray foam or future summer sunshine.

On my bus, which is a Blue Bird but has the hat channels spaced differently than the school bus bodies do, the left side worked out as follows. Rear-most is 120" long and just covers the rear flange of a hat channel, up to the rear flange of another hat channel 10 feet forward. Second panel does the same. The third panel was cut a bit shorter; I don't recall its length. The fourth was cut down to about 101" length.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170805_195022[1].jpg (203.7 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg 20170805_195217[1].jpg (114.6 KB, 15 views)
family wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 12:54 PM   #9
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 7,200
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
That might be a problem.... especially if I wait until Oct.
if you spray them with black primer and work on sunny days, you should have them be plenty warm in october.
-Christopher
cadillackid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2017, 01:12 PM   #10
Bus Crazy
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 2,075
Year: 1999
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
pics
Good grief!!! Did you buy just a frame and engine? Luckily I'm not doing that much.

Quote:
Rear-most is 120" long and just covers the rear flange of a hat channel, up to the rear flange of another hat channel 10 feet forward. Second panel does the same. The third panel was cut a bit shorter; I don't recall its length. The fourth was cut down to about 101" length.
Nice. I don't think mine is going to be close to that. Below are the ribs. I dunno if I believe my own note about the first gap. I want to say the passenger door and driver window are 40" to cover the entire ribs (not center to center).

Front to rear starting at the windshield 35" 28" 28" (I think this is where I measured 8 feet) 35" 35" 35" 28" 28" 35" 28" 28" 28" 28" 28" 28"
__________________
The slow documentation of the build...
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/9...ome-17761.html
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.