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09-13-2015, 05:31 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 11
Year: 91
Coachwork: BB
Engine: DT466
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Rivet removal
What is the best method for removing rivets from the ceiling and wall panels?
Is there really no way to do a specific search on this forum?
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09-13-2015, 05:48 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
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Drill out the center of the rivet and then use a chisel and hammer to knock of the head.
In order to search the site just do a search on google for the term and and add site:Skoolie.net
Like this:
Let me google that for you
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09-13-2015, 08:46 PM
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#3
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 11
Year: 91
Coachwork: BB
Engine: DT466
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Thanks Piersg.
After drilling for a couple hours, I ended up using a center punch to knock out the center of the rivets and then was able to use a chisel to remove the heads.
i'm starting to think it doesn't get cold enough around Seattle to warrant replacing those old insulation bats.
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09-13-2015, 10:40 PM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 29
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466e
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Hi! So from my way of thinking for over all comfort I would want to replace and increase the insulation R-value for sure. But knowing that your in the pacific north west. I couldn't imagine not getting that old batt ins. out. The primary reason would be your long term health and even short term if you have any issues with mold. Here's a good read from one of the other threads last week.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/in...nks-11210.html
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09-14-2015, 04:52 AM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Not taking mold into consideration, better insulation means less work your HVAC set up has to do to keep the interior comfortable. Remember, the majority of bus manufacturers use batting that's cheap and provides a minor level of insulation, since their logic is "It's only used twice a day; it's not like they're going to be living in it"
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09-14-2015, 10:29 AM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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We get -35 here and there was still no way I was ever going to attempt to take all those rivets out!
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09-14-2015, 11:12 AM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Way back when I had good luck using a thin metal cutting disk on an angle grinder ...cut an "X" down to the surface, whack it with a good cold chisel to pop off the head, then a pin punch to knock out the body. Much faster than drilling but you just have to exercise care not to carve up the sheetmetal.
Then of course...there is a tool known as a "rivet shaver" that is made to do the job but I found them pricey & tricky to use.
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09-14-2015, 12:48 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Good old 4 pound hammer, a long 16 inch by 1.5 inch wide cold chisel with hand guard, and a good arm is all that's needed.
I don't understand why people are so lazy. Fearful of a little hard work.
All the mechanical ways can be faster. However, they are much louder, require $$ investment, ect.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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09-14-2015, 02:28 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
I don't understand why people are so lazy. Fearful of a little hard work.
Nat
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I have all the power tools needed to do this easily and I still wouldnt do it! Not enough gain to bother with. You still have the issue of radiant cold/heat through all the steel.
Spray foam is the way to go but I wouldnt be interested in that stuff in living quarters.
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09-14-2015, 04:06 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Way back when I had good luck using a thin metal cutting disk on an angle grinder ...cut an "X" down to the surface, whack it with a good cold chisel to pop off the head, then a pin punch to knock out the body. Much faster than drilling but you just have to exercise care not to carve up the sheetmetal.
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Exactly the way I did it.
My reason for not using a big (really big) hammer was that I didn't want to hurt or distort the steel framing the rivets were fitted into.
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09-14-2015, 05:57 PM
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#11
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Farmington, IL
Posts: 187
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: AARE 3903
Engine: Cummins 6CTA 8.3
Rated Cap: 84
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Center punch the head, hurdy gurdy drill the head off, pin punch the buck.
Power tools are not allowed on military aircraft... LOL
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09-15-2015, 05:22 PM
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#12
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 57
Year: 1997
Engine: Navistar T444E Disel V8
Rated Cap: 71
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Angle Grinder and a punch. Cut off the heads, tap out the shaft. I did all my exterior rivets in 30 minutes once I started with that method.
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12-15-2015, 05:56 PM
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#13
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 248
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9
Rated Cap: 83
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I used an air chisel. First I used a center punch style tool to punch the center pin in then a flat chisel type tool to cut the head off. Keep the chisel sharp and it cuts the heads off easily. Same with the bucked rivets, keep the chisel as sharp as possible and it will cut through them. Too bad there are about a cajillion of them.
__________________
Hopeless Busaholic!
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12-15-2015, 07:29 PM
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#14
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Almost There
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Salt Lake City, Ut
Posts: 83
Year: 98
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: D
Engine: 7.2L turbo Cat C7 3126
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunner
I used an air chisel. First I used a center punch style tool to punch the center pin in then a flat chisel type tool to cut the head off. Keep the chisel sharp and it cuts the heads off easily. Same with the bucked rivets, keep the chisel as sharp as possible and it will cut through them. Too bad there are about a cajillion of them.
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I also used an air chisel. First I used the narrow punch to push the center pin back a few millimeters. Then I tried a few different chisels. I found that the one with a V in the center and a 30 degree bend in it worked best. Because the center material has been pushed inwands, the first few chisel strikes allow one end of the rivet to be smashed into the newly created void. This also creates a little lip and the bent chisel head can get behind it. It it didn't cut through right away, I was able to do a little prying motion while the chisel was running, kinda like a crowbar, and that popped the rivets right out. Luckily, my bus has a lot of screws, only every fifth one was a rivet. Still, a short step stool will help a ton to keep your arms from getting too sore.
The first pass, with the center punch, each rivet took about 4-5 seconds. One the second pass, with the bent chisel, each rivet took 3-8 seconds to remove.
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01-02-2016, 06:45 PM
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#15
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New Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: NH
Posts: 3
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After trying the drill out and chisel method I fell back on just burning grinding disks, I found with a bit of practice and not caring about the sheet metal I was able to blow through rivets rather quickly and effectively.
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