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Old 09-21-2015, 09:38 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by jake_blue View Post
That bus has a trophy!

I don't know how municipal buses compare to school buses in terms of their robust construction... again it probably varies by manufacturer and model.
And to think that Regressive Insurance would have written a policy on the S&S in the above picture, but not one for one made from a transit bus.

I forgot to mention one thing I read in Ben Rosander's Select & Convert Your Bus into a Motorhome on a Shoestring: he recommends staggering your roof cuts rib to rib so the splicing doesn't create a "hinge" point where the sidewalls could bend. Not a substitute for the overlapping mentioned earlier in this thread: I think they'd complement each other.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:07 PM   #102
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Ok so onto bolting. The wings on my ribs aren't very long, so bolting through those may be tricky. Would it be fine to just bolt the interior/sides of the hat channel to the rib? Also what about attaching those rectangular tubes from one side since I already have them? Overkill/unnecessary? It would make riveting the sheet metal on easier, because I could blind rivet through the tubes. just a thought!

Mostly just focused on the stability of just bolting down the interior side of the hat channel/rib
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:48 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by Intalleyvision View Post
Ok so onto bolting. The wings on my ribs aren't very long, so bolting through those may be tricky. Would it be fine to just bolt the interior/sides of the hat channel to the rib? Also what about attaching those rectangular tubes from one side since I already have them? Overkill/unnecessary? It would make riveting the sheet metal on easier, because I could blind rivet through the tubes. just a thought!

Mostly just focused on the stability of just bolting down the interior side of the hat channel/rib
If you don't have room to bolt through the outsides of the ribs, they were made wrong / too small.

For temporary holding before adding the outside skin, yes I mostly added bolts to the inside of the ribs.

For a finished product, the bolts or rivets need to be in the outside flange of the ribs / hat channel.

Because I strapped the inside of the bus, I have bolts in both the inside and the outside flanges of the ribs. Most are in the outside flange where they belong.

Nat
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Old 01-17-2016, 07:16 PM   #104
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I was hoping some people could talk to a few things I was trying to figure out. Now I have to start by saying I don't have my bus yet and thus don't know what It will be like inside, I'm 6'2"-6'3" if i stand up straight. I have a feeling I'm gonna have to raise the roof just a bit. and I would raise it just behind the driver seat as others have also posted about.

My big thing is that I want to keep the overall bus impression alive by not making the windows any larger than they already are. So my question is, is there a way to add the raised part just above the window line keeping all the window components there? I know I would have to find a sheet metal artist to bend some metal and fill in the gaps left.

I want to also add about finding a welder. I was trying to have a custom rack built for my truck and after going around and talking to many welding shops around town I finally got referred to a guy who is a RETIRED welder. he still welds out of his garage and will do the work for half the cost. So instead of $100 an hour he does it for $50!!! and its the same quality welds from any of those shops.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:44 PM   #105
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Mig welders are cheap and easy to use. If you plan on much metal work, they are worth investing in.
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Old 01-18-2016, 10:52 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Pshots View Post
My big thing is that I want to keep the overall bus impression alive by not making the windows any larger than they already are. So my question is, is there a way to add the raised part just above the window line keeping all the window components there? I know I would have to find a sheet metal artist to bend some metal and fill in the gaps left.
Speaking from my limited experience with 1990+ Blue Birds, sure, you could keep all the windows. Probably do the cut somewhere in the middle- to lower-window area as most people do so that there's a respectable tail of the roof bows to splice with (rather than cutting at the tops of the windows). After the lift was re-joined you could re-install the windows at whatever height you preferred. Check the details before getting too far along: if you were to use the custom hat channel method several of us have used, you'd want to be sure the additional thickness didn't shrink the space to where windows couldn't fit back in. In that case, maybe have the hat channel sized to go inside the factory parts rather than outside.

There's usually an "eyebrow" in the metal just above each window so that water drips past the windows rather than running onto and into them. I'm not sure what to suggest about that -- whether to somehow remove the originals and have new eyebrows made to go above the windows..? It's something to think about.
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Old 01-20-2016, 04:50 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Just get hat channel made..........

Nat
How much does that cost. And is that he 4 inch piece you took off of yours and took it to get it done ?
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:22 PM   #108
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Don't know whether nat_ster will be back to answering questions soon or not, so I'll give my thoughts since I used the hat channel idea he proposed. If I remember the numbers correctly.. I think I had twelve pieces each 10 feet long custom-made for about $330. It was about half material and half labor.

Regarding your question on Nat's build thread: I think you could do the extension at any convenient height on the wall, and could keep the windows too. I think there are two things you'd have to figure out. One is whether hat channel stacked on the factory stuff makes the window space too narrow; the second is whether the added thickness in the wall in that area will cause trouble for whatever wall build-up you have in mind. For the first problem (if the horizontal space becomes too narrow) maybe you could have hat channel made to fit inside the factory stuff rather than outside.
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:43 PM   #109
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Ok... let me process this information and Ill get back to you with additional questions FOR SURE.

Thanks.
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Old 03-08-2016, 05:27 PM   #110
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This thread was very helpful and augmented my research I have been doing about roof rises. I am still very much in planning mode, but am considering how to make a loft style bed much like tiny houses. So far its not jumping out as possible given the base floor and frame height. But that's whats nice about being in the research phase I can dream/plan all over the place. I am new to the forums so maybe some more digging can give ideas. Ill be watching to see this threads activity and the linked builds. Thank you
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