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Old 09-04-2015, 11:02 AM   #11
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Okay the steel has been ordered. I'm doing a 20" raise, with 36" Steel tubing, 1.25" at a 14 gauge. That'll leave me 8 inches on either side. I plan on bolting it into place (With multiple bolts) along with some adhesive for added help. Cost me $66 at my local metal shop.
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:24 AM   #12
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FWIW- If anyone near me (FL) wants any "hat" channel made hit me up.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Intalleyvision View Post
Okay the steel has been ordered. I'm doing a 20" raise, with 36" Steel tubing, 1.25" at a 14 gauge. That'll leave me 8 inches on either side. I plan on bolting it into place (With multiple bolts) along with some adhesive for added help. Cost me $66 at my local metal shop.
You will not be able to use bolts with tubing.

There are no flanges to bolt through.

If you use tubing, your stuck to welding them in.

You also can't use adhesive with tubing. The new and old pieces must match to use adhesive.

Hat channel is the way to go.

Nat
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:05 PM   #14
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I couldn't drill holes through the ribs, mark the tubing, then drill holes in the tubing, then bolt them in place? I was planning on doing bolts on all three sides like in this sketch. Is there any reason why that wouldn't work?

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Old 09-04-2015, 04:26 PM   #15
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I can't tell whether those bolts go all the way through, or if you're bolting them "blind" by getting a nut up inside so that the bolt only clamps the near side of the tube. If the bolts go all the way through, is it necessary to sleeve the tube..? If not sleeved, then there's a reduced limit to how much clamping the bolt can provide (if the bolt is tightened beyond some point, the tube will crush).
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:11 PM   #16
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Haha yeah I just realized I'm an idiot and could tighten the bolts while they're in a tube. What about something like this? Do 8 bolts (2 in a row, 4 rows, spread out evenly over the 8 inches) Top and Bottom.

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Old 09-04-2015, 05:24 PM   #17
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You'll still be better off with a channel that is open to the inside and fits snugly if you are using bolts. Those bolts need to be cinched down VERY tight to create any kind of bonding force. What you are showing is going to move. Not a good thing.

I used 1-1/4" thick wall square tubing that fit tightly inside my old BB ribs but they employed a combination of welding (mostly as a temporary hold) and a bunch of quarter inch blind steel rivets on 3 sides and then a section of original rib material spliced in to fill the gap that also used both methods of securing.
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:34 PM   #18
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Could I fill the gap between the ribs and the tubing with washers?
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:20 AM   #19
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Yes...but you will still be basically crushing the square tube in as you try to tighten the bolts. The force needs to go to pulling the inner & outer elements together...not collapsing the tube.
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Old 09-05-2015, 02:29 PM   #20
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Just get hat channel made..........

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