Room dividers?

[Jaybus]

My roof is perfect and I dont want to drill holes in the roof.

Can/should I drill from the floor to put my walls up?
ANd has any one any photos or info before I hack up my brand new pergo?

Thanks!

[chev49]

Are you gonna drill holes in the walls and the floor?

[Jaybus]

I was thinking the floor and perhaps the walls but not the roof.

[Stuff]

if you are not going to drill into the roof you will have to somehow make a frame all the way around but it cannot touch the roof or it would squeak like crazy down the road.

[chev49]

I suppose one could attach walls to floor and the walls only... however the wall should be sturdier than one made with the normal 3 point attachment. Otherwise i would envision it being a bit floppy. I don't see how a few holes inside the wall through the inside roof skin will hurt anything.

[somewhereinusa]

You can drill holes in the ceiling (inside skin) and attach things to the inside of the ribs without going into the roof (outside skin). I think trying to make a wall without fastening it at the top would be asking for trouble down the road. Are you going to have overhead cabinets? How would you attach them?

[mchunt]

Do you want solid room dividers? Walls instead of cutains or screens?

Does the pergo float? Are the pergo planks fastened to a subfloor?

[chev49]

Pego flooring is designed to have a thin pad under it, and 1/4 inch left arond the perimiter of the room and not nailed down. this is to allow for expansion. I recently bought pergo for my bus, and in the next few days after i redo my 5x12 living room floor, i am going to put it down. i will not leave 1/4 inch side gaps, maybe 1/8.. and of course add wood cove base on the sides i guess. The ends i will butt up a trim piece against it or may use one of those metal strips with the right height on one side to match..
you can also go to pergo.com and read how to install the stuff...

[mchunt]

That's what I thought, that's why I asked if it is floating. The reason I was asking if it floats is that you probably don't want to build a wall on top of it. I thought you already had the pergo installed, guess I was looking at the wrong thread.

My bus has the roof (outer skin) and the ceiling (inner skin) with about a 3" space filled with fiberglass insulation between, I think most of them are built this way. I secured studs to the ceiling using toggle bolts. I didn't have a problem accidentally going through the roof when I drilled the holes for the toggle bolts. In places where I didn't want a stud wall, but I wanted a vertical piece of plywood as a wall, I used brackets and sheet metal screws.




Those are actually chair corners, a little fancier than el brackets. You could do something like this all the way around the divider, position the divider whar a window stanchion is and use brackets on the floor, up the side and on the ceiling.

[JA Savage]

I am assuming that the places you "wanted a vertical piece of plywood as a wall" instead of a stud wall were places that you did not want (or need) to run electric lines or plumbing. Am I correct? And did you use the corner brackets all of the way around the piece of plywood on one side or both sides.

[thommassey]

In a remodel we did some time ago... we extended a kitchen peninsula out on to a pergo floor, and nailed right thru it. According to the "Rep" at the lumber yard, the floating is for the exact reason described above, expansion and contraction. In the little amount of sqare footage that was actullay secured to the floor, that floating was not an issue. The design was for large areas not to expand and buckle within the walls. And the no nail- pergo design is for cosmetic reasons (people did not want to see nail heads. So, I am pretty sure, a wall or two or four, at an average of two feet long + or - , will not buckle your Pergo. This is only information shared as heard from the "Rep". But, after more than 5 yrs, the floor we dealt with is doin great!

[mchunt]

Originally Posted by JA Savage

I am assuming that the places you "wanted a vertical piece of plywood as a wall" instead of a stud wall were places that you did not want (or need) to run electric lines or plumbing. Am I correct? And did you use the corner brackets all of the way around the piece of plywood on one side or both sides.

Yes you are correct, what is pictured are the head an foot of the bunks. In this case I didn't use the brackets all the way around becuse the walls are attached to the bunks and only needed a couple of points at the top. But, I don't see any reason that they could be attached with brackets all the way around.