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09-02-2018, 08:46 PM
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#1
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Rubber flooring
Im at the stage of tearing out the floor. Any advice on removing it..remove the rubber then the plywood but how is the question.
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09-02-2018, 10:37 PM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Greater Houston, Tx.
Posts: 589
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I like the "floor jack" method. Get an edge of the plywood up enough to get a floor jack under it (a 2x4 or two might asset you} and go to town. (no old joke reference intended) This can make the job quicker, and easier.
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09-03-2018, 09:06 AM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1olfart
I like the "floor jack" method. Get an edge of the plywood up enough to get a floor jack under it (a 2x4 or two might asset you} and go to town. (no old joke reference intended) This can make the job quicker, and easier.
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Tear off the plywood and rubber at the same time then?
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09-03-2018, 10:13 AM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Depends on the condition of it all. In my new bus, it was so bad that the rubber wasn't really stuck to the wood any more, so pulling that up was really simple. Then the plywood was just crumbling apart and I was pulling it up by the handful.
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09-03-2018, 10:53 AM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown
Depends on the condition of it all. In my new bus, it was so bad that the rubber wasn't really stuck to the wood any more, so pulling that up was really simple. Then the plywood was just crumbling apart and I was pulling it up by the handful.
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Ive pulled some of the rubber up around fender well. It was stuck pretty good..ive got all that trim to rip out then see if I can pull it up..i wasnt sure if pulling it up together would make a pain in the A$$ job worser..hope for the best but expect the worst!
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09-04-2018, 06:51 PM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Greater Houston, Tx.
Posts: 589
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Like Brokedown said, IF the plywood is I good enough condition, take em both out at the same time. You'll have plenty of time to make up the time you save, on several other project. Since the rubber has developed "an attitude" I say get that stuff out asap.
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09-04-2018, 07:12 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Pulled up a big patch of rubber, the wood is shot. We've had a week solid of heavy rains and the wood is showing me where the water is..its just crumbles in spots. Hoping for the best and expecting the worst when I tear into it..
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09-04-2018, 07:34 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,056
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
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Once the air hits it, that wet metal floor is going to start rusting in a hurry.
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09-04-2018, 08:53 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown
Once the air hits it, that wet metal floor is going to start rusting in a hurry.
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Yeah its always a good idea to mop the floor with ospho or something similar once the metal is exposed. Even if its pristine the phosphoric acid will etch the galvanizing and make the paint stick to it really well.
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09-05-2018, 08:36 AM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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This...
is why anyone considering a build out should rip up their floor before doing much else. Good start bud. And definitely use a rust treatment before painting. And those rust patterns also give you an idea as to which windows leaked the worse.
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09-06-2018, 10:41 AM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
This...
is why anyone considering a build out should rip up their floor before doing much else. Good start bud. And definitely use a rust treatment before painting. And those rust patterns also give you an idea as to which windows leaked the worse.
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I i have a good idea of where its coming in..it follows my roof seams and those windows leak. There is a vent on the roof thats louvers were smashed shut...i fixed them..it leaks..and finally, fugly has a rub rail wind blocker at the top of windows right below gutter..is that common?
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09-06-2018, 10:51 AM
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#12
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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I set a Skil saw at 3/4" and cut up along the rows of screws and removed the big pieces of plywood, then it was easier to pry the remaining screwed down parts with stripped heads.
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09-06-2018, 07:41 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
I set a Skil saw at 3/4" and cut up along the rows of screws and removed the big pieces of plywood, then it was easier to pry the remaining screwed down parts with stripped heads.
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Thats an excellent idea.
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09-18-2018, 12:13 PM
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#14
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 447
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeypj
Thats an excellent idea.
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As i tore into it i realized i way over thought such a fairly simple but physical job.
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