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Old 08-10-2016, 09:20 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD View Post
What you could do to keep from putting holes in the steel flooring is to attach the furring strips into the side walls. Then screw the plywood into the strips from the top.
Would you toenail the furring strips into the sides? And would you do it where he ribs are?

I like the idea of having SOME parts attached to the body of the bus.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:45 AM   #12
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Would you toenail the furring strips into the sides? And would you do it where he ribs are?

I like the idea of having SOME parts attached to the body of the bus.
I don't believe you would need to toenail, I'd just go straight in. Pre-drill holes in the furring strips to keep them from splitting only if you need to, and also pre-drill smaller holes in the rib for the screw to get started. The ribs typically exist every 2.5 ft and are in line with the window ribs. I'd definitely drill into the ribs for the best support and holding power.
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:51 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD View Post
What you could do to keep from putting holes in the steel flooring is to attach the furring strips into the side walls. Then screw the plywood into the strips from the top.

As for the foam board insulation I've done plenty of research and polyiso works just fine and since you are putting sheets of plywood over it the load distribution and compression of the foam board is not a factor. There is also no reason to use glue on the insulation or the plywood. As long as you lay it all down wall to wall and screw the plywood down on top of it, it's not going to shift.
Thanks for the response. Perhaps you could just clarify a few things though. You say that the foam can handle direct load from the plywood but then you also mentioned using furring strips. So do you recommend using furring strips or no?

Also, you mentioned screwing the plywood down on top of the insulation. Do you mean all the way down through metal floor? Or into furring strips? Or just into the insulation?

Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2016, 09:54 AM   #14
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If you read a bit up in the thread, the recommendation is to NOT drill in the the steel belly. Just into the furring strips and without going into the floor. I'm getting excited to tackle this next step!!
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:07 AM   #15
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Thanks for the response. Perhaps you could just clarify a few things though. You say that the foam can handle direct load from the plywood but then you also mentioned using furring strips. So do you recommend using furring strips or no?

Also, you mentioned screwing the plywood down on top of the insulation. Do you mean all the way down through metal floor? Or into furring strips? Or just into the insulation?

Thanks!
I'm not using furring strips myself because my floor will be secured by all the floor to ceiling walls I'm putting up plus all my floor cabinets attached to the floor and side walls. In your case you may want the furring strips.

Cut the foam insulation to fit inside the furring strips and then cut the plywood to fit just over the top of the furring strips and use screws only long enough to go through the plywood and almost to the bottom of the furring strip. That way the screws will not be going into the steel floor.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:13 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD View Post
I'm not using furring strips myself because my floor will be secured by all the floor to ceiling walls I'm putting up plus all my floor cabinets attached to the floor and side walls. In your case you may want the furring strips.

Cut the foam insulation to fit inside the furring strips and then cut the plywood to fit just over the top of the furring strips and use screws only long enough to go through the plywood and almost to the bottom of the furring strip. That way the screws will not be going into the steel floor.
So are the furring strips screwed to the metal floor?
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:18 AM   #17
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So are the furring strips screwed to the metal floor?
No. We're trying to avoid putting holes into the steel floor. Use 2x2's or whatever size you choose and attach the furring strips to the side ribs by putting screws into the sides of the furring strips.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:22 AM   #18
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No. We're trying to avoid putting holes into the steel floor. Use 2x2's or whatever size you choose and attach the furring strips to the side ribs by putting screws into the sides of the furring strips.
Oh ok, got ya. I am only going with 3/4" insulation and furring strips so screwing to walls could be tricky. Thanks for all the info!
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:28 PM   #19
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No screws. No furring strips. We are in the age of adhesives. Using an adhesive removes potential squeaks and will hold everything down and in place. PL Premium is cheap insurance if you're worried about not having enough cabinetry or walls to hold the floor in place.

Tongue and groove plywood plus some adhesive creates a single giant piece of plywood. Ship lap XPS with some adhesive creates a giant piece of foam. That's all I have to say about it!
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:17 PM   #20
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No screws. No furring strips. We are in the age of adhesives. Using an adhesive removes potential squeaks and will hold everything down and in place. PL Premium is cheap insurance if you're worried about not having enough cabinetry or walls to hold the floor in place.

Tongue and groove plywood plus some adhesive creates a single giant piece of plywood. Ship lap XPS with some adhesive creates a giant piece of foam. That's all I have to say about it!
Can you buy shiplap foam sheets or do you have to get creative?
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