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Old 04-01-2019, 06:44 PM   #1
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Securing the doors and hatches

I’ll be starting on my 2006 Thomas Freightliner conversion and was hoping for enlightenment on the best tools and tactics for securing the doors and hatches. I am doing a very light touch conversion, and want to keep the doors and hatches original as possible. But there is not a single lock to be found.

I assume there is a good place to buy locking latches for the battery and storage hatches, the wheelchair lift and emergency exit door? Links?

I believe I could secure the main bi-fold door with a swing bar and padlock? Is there a more straightforward solution?

It makes perfect sense that it isn’t lockable. They used to live in a motor pool surrounded by chain link and concertina wire, and had nothing on board worth stealing other than the bus itself. If the doors and hatches could lock, it would probably be a nightmare for motor pool staff when drivers lost the keys.

However, I need to be able to lock up. Any guidance welcome.

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Old 04-01-2019, 07:21 PM   #2
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Try these folks. They've got a good selection and variety of paddle handle lockable latches:
https://www.mcmaster.com/flush-mount-latches
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Old 04-01-2019, 08:01 PM   #3
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I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.
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Old 04-17-2019, 11:24 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.
I saw someone used this same deadbolt on the front split door and it worked fine. It's what I'm planning to use when the time comes.
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Old 04-25-2019, 03:20 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.

This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
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Old 04-25-2019, 08:01 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
you would use a hole saw of the correct size to fit the lock cylinder - hole saws are a bit pricey, but the alternative is drilling a bunch of small holes, then a lot of filing to make the cylinder fit properly
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Old 04-25-2019, 10:14 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
The hole is made with an appropriate sized hole saw.
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:06 AM   #8
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The almighty Hole Dozer. These things will rip your arms off when you get into the larger ones if your not careful. I used a six inch recently and it almost got away from me. Glad I ate my Wheaties that day.
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Old 05-10-2019, 12:41 PM   #9
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I have owned a set of hole saws for aeons, but have never used them on metal. Clearly it can be done, but do you just let it rip or use a little drill oil? Carpentry is old hat to me, metal is a whole new world.
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:01 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
I have owned a set of hole saws for aeons, but have never used them on metal. Clearly it can be done, but do you just let it rip or use a little drill oil? Carpentry is old hat to me, metal is a whole new world.
Oil will help, but slow, steady, and level wins the race. The bits 'grab' because the cutting edge has tilted in the work, and is cutting deeper on one side than the other. Over the years, I've broken the handles off 3 different 1/2" drills by going faster than I should have.
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Oil will help, but slow, steady, and level wins the race. The bits 'grab' because the cutting edge has tilted in the work, and is cutting deeper on one side than the other. Over the years, I've broken the handles off 3 different 1/2" drills by going faster than I should have.
I found a "cutting and drilling lube" at NAPA that is water based and doesn't leave the mess that machine oil does. Works well and is handy in a regular spray bottle.

PLFking, What is your secret? I would rather break handles than have the drill try and rip my right arm off Where you break a handle I wind up with a sprained wrist instead.....
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:37 PM   #12
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I saw someone used this same deadbolt on the front split door and it worked fine. It's what I'm planning to use when the time comes.
We put a simple deadbolt on the back door like this:




For the wheelchair door we used a lock like this:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sour...57599560638180

We also used the deadbolt like o1marc posted on the front door, but don't have any closeup pictures of it.
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post

I believe I could secure the main bi-fold door with a swing bar and padlock? Is there a more straightforward solution?
I'm planning on drilling a hole on the lever & keep on the inside of each emergency exit. A carabiner will go in each of those.

For the front door I'll use this on the outside:

https://www.masterlock.com/personal-...oduct/M736XKAD

On the inside (when we're living in the bus), I'll just use an old fashion bar that sits in a cradle.
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Old 05-10-2019, 01:46 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by tugboater View Post
I'm planning on drilling a hole on the lever & keep on the inside of each emergency exit. A carabiner will go in each of those.

For the front door I'll use this on the outside:

https://www.masterlock.com/personal-...oduct/M736XKAD

On the inside (when we're living in the bus), I'll just use an old fashion bar that sits in a cradle.
The problem we saw with the padlock solution is that someone could lock it from the outside while we are inside. The deadbolts can be locked and unlocked from the inside (levers) or outside (keys) so we will never be locked in. The hasp lock we have on the wheelchair door is only on the outside since we can't exit through that door anyway, since the ramp is still in place.
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:00 PM   #15
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PLFking, What is your secret? I would rather break handles than have the drill try and rip my right arm off Where you break a handle I wind up with a sprained wrist instead.....
You're the one with the valuable secret. I'd rather sprain my wrist than have to buy another drill.
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Old 05-10-2019, 02:34 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ermracing View Post
The problem we saw with the padlock solution is that someone could lock it from the outside while we are inside. The deadbolts can be locked and unlocked from the inside (levers) or outside (keys) so we will never be locked in. The hasp lock we have on the wheelchair door is only on the outside since we can't exit through that door anyway, since the ramp is still in place.


I thought of the lock while inside scenario, but figured the chances of that are slim & if it happens I’ll walk out the e door and cut it.
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Old 05-10-2019, 06:00 PM   #17
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I went this route. While prepping and loading to leave NH, I installed a latch post safety hasp on the swing-out front doors. Not pretty, but it kept undesirables out.
Well, except for me.
I had the key...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermracing View Post
The problem we saw with the padlock solution is that someone could lock it from the outside while we are inside. The deadbolts can be locked and unlocked from the inside (levers) or outside (keys) so we will never be locked in. The hasp lock we have on the wheelchair door is only on the outside since we can't exit through that door anyway, since the ramp is still in place.
Point being, when not otherwise locked shut, I lock the hasp in the open position.
Doubly beneficial: no prankster can lock me in, and I am SO much less likely to misplace the lock!
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:08 PM   #18
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Using pad locks is a bad idea, they only help keep honest people honest. They are far to easy to defeat.
Not to mention it looks horrible.
I too am looking for a good solution to locking the main door.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:14 PM   #19
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I am looking for that less-ghetto-looking solution, as well.
But in the meanwhile, I guess it's done well enough to keep all of the local honest tweaks on their side of the bulkheads...
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:51 AM   #20
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The pad lock is just used to keep the intruder busy for a few minutes while the wife and I fight over who gets to shoot the thief.
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