Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-01-2019, 06:44 PM   #1
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 5
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 906 Mercedes 6.4l turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 24 passenger
Securing the doors and hatches

Iíll be starting on my 2006 Thomas Freightliner conversion and was hoping for enlightenment on the best tools and tactics for securing the doors and hatches. I am doing a very light touch conversion, and want to keep the doors and hatches original as possible. But there is not a single lock to be found.

I assume there is a good place to buy locking latches for the battery and storage hatches, the wheelchair lift and emergency exit door? Links?

I believe I could secure the main bi-fold door with a swing bar and padlock? Is there a more straightforward solution?

It makes perfect sense that it isnít lockable. They used to live in a motor pool surrounded by chain link and concertina wire, and had nothing on board worth stealing other than the bus itself. If the doors and hatches could lock, it would probably be a nightmare for motor pool staff when drivers lost the keys.

However, I need to be able to lock up. Any guidance welcome.
DaddyMonkeyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2019, 07:21 PM   #2
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 125
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Thomas 4 window w/lift
Chassis: G30
Engine: 350 Chevy
Rated Cap: 10K
Try these folks. They've got a good selection and variety of paddle handle lockable latches:
https://www.mcmaster.com/flush-mount-latches
peteg59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2019, 08:01 PM   #3
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 5,748
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190204_170514.jpg (53.0 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg 20190204_170523 (1).jpg (54.8 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg 20190204_170533 (2).jpg (61.8 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg 20190204_170554.jpg (54.4 KB, 22 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2019, 11:24 PM   #4
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.
I saw someone used this same deadbolt on the front split door and it worked fine. It's what I'm planning to use when the time comes.
indigo_k is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 03:20 AM   #5
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 5
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 906 Mercedes 6.4l turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 24 passenger
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I found this deadbolt the cheapest and easiest way to secure a back door. Lock was $9. Put a spacer on the back of the door, drill the hole for the cylinder, 4 screws to mount it to the door. Weld the catch on the red arm and you're done.

This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
DaddyMonkeyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 08:01 AM   #6
Bus Crazy
 
Sleddgracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 1,008
Chassis: still looking for my bus
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
you would use a hole saw of the correct size to fit the lock cylinder - hole saws are a bit pricey, but the alternative is drilling a bunch of small holes, then a lot of filing to make the cylinder fit properly
Sleddgracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 10:14 AM   #7
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 5,748
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
This is fantastic! I apologize for the delay in responding...I have been wandering the earth in a land of shitty WiFI.

As I understand it, the whole would be to provide the external lock cyliner? So a fairly good sized hole? I am so new to this, but do you use drill oil when drilling into the sheet metal? Any bit preferences?
The hole is made with an appropriate sized hole saw.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg holesaw.jpg (20.4 KB, 5 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2019, 08:06 AM   #8
Skoolie
 
Ciscokid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Indiana
Posts: 104
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Me
Chassis: 2001 IC
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 72
The almighty Hole Dozer. These things will rip your arms off when you get into the larger ones if your not careful. I used a six inch recently and it almost got away from me. Glad I ate my Wheaties that day.
Ciscokid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 12:41 PM   #9
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Tacoma, WA, USA
Posts: 5
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 906 Mercedes 6.4l turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 24 passenger
I have owned a set of hole saws for aeons, but have never used them on metal. Clearly it can be done, but do you just let it rip or use a little drill oil? Carpentry is old hat to me, metal is a whole new world.
DaddyMonkeyman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2019, 01:01 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
plfking's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: N.C.
Posts: 718
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMonkeyman View Post
I have owned a set of hole saws for aeons, but have never used them on metal. Clearly it can be done, but do you just let it rip or use a little drill oil? Carpentry is old hat to me, metal is a whole new world.
Oil will help, but slow, steady, and level wins the race. The bits 'grab' because the cutting edge has tilted in the work, and is cutting deeper on one side than the other. Over the years, I've broken the handles off 3 different 1/2" drills by going faster than I should have.
__________________
Don

The Busted Flush
plfking is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:24 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.