Solar Water Shower System

[msearslive]

Originally Posted by o1marc

20 gallons will fill approx. 31' of 4" pipe.

Oh wow. Ok. Hmm, well then I should go measure the top of my short bus length and width and then double it to get a rough idea of if that'll be 31' or what it ends up being.

[msearslive]

So I just found a 40 gallon water heater than someone is scrapping. The pictures show that it seems to be great condition. If I stripped it down to the core cylinder - do you think this could work for my water tank?

It'd be free. However, it's not plastic or square like the ones you'd buy online and that are typically used in builds I see. I'd have to take off the outter sheet metal cover, strip down the insulation in it, and then be left with whatever those valves are that are sticking out. Not sure if those could be removed and patched or if that's just not recommended.

Thoughts? I'm asking because it's FREE!

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by msearslive

Oh wow. Ok. Hmm, well then I should go measure the top of my short bus length and width and then double it to get a rough idea of if that'll be 31' or what it ends up being.

I would start by calculating the amount of hot water needed for a shower and use those number to develop a system. How often will you have showers taken back to back? The larger the holding system the longer it takes to heat and maintain heat. I southern summer regions I guarantee you will get water so hot you will not be able to hold your hand in it, so you will need to plumb cold to your shower for temp mixing. You may not need 20 gallons of stand by hot water.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by msearslive

So I just found a 40 gallon water heater than someone is scrapping. The pictures show that it seems to be great condition. If I stripped it down to the core cylinder - do you think this could work for my water tank?

It'd be free. However, it's not plastic or square like the ones you'd buy online and that are typically used in builds I see. I'd have to take off the outter sheet metal cover, strip down the insulation in it, and then be left with whatever those valves are that are sticking out. Not sure if those could be removed and patched or if that's just not recommended.

Thoughts? I'm asking because it's FREE!

That's a full size house heater. removing the outer skin and insulation would render the unit pretty useless. All the valves are needed, one is intake supply, one is hot water out. Faucet on bottom is for draining it when they start to leak.
Not to mention how much it will tax the electric system in the bus. If you really want to go that route I would opt for a smaller 20 gallon unit. what is your opposition to a tankless water heater that would run off propane and not tax the electric, take up space, and maintain heat?

[msearslive]

Well I wouldn't be using it as a water heater. I'd be using it a holding tank only. It was just a thought. If it's a no-go, I trust you guys who are already living the life. I was just trying to be creative is all.

In regards to a tankless water heater - I am not willing to use any fossil fuels or propane unless there is no other option. I will say that I have succumb to the understanding that a generator may be necessary on the back of the bus for emergency use and/or if we really do have some high powered appliances such as the induction stovetop we bought. It requires 1800w.

We purchased an iHeat showerhead that you connect to water and that head heats the water for showers, but if the solar shower system up on top of the bus is somethign I can get to work out than that's the direction I'll go.

As you can see, heh, I'm not really technically or mechanically inclined so I'm gleening from all your folks' experiences, expertise and advice to try to make the solar shower system via 4" tubes work out if possible.

[msearslive]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I would start by calculating the amount of hot water needed for a shower and use those number to develop a system. How often will you have showers taken back to back? The larger the holding system the longer it takes to heat and maintain heat. I southern summer regions I guarantee you will get water so hot you will not be able to hold your hand in it, so you will need to plumb cold to your shower for temp mixing. You may not need 20 gallons of stand by hot water.

When we very first bought the bus, we bought that Nemo Helio LX with the foot pump. But, you'd have to heat the water and put it in there. We tried it and personally thought it was garbage. It only worked halfway and that's if you had it lifted up in the air. The company touts that you can set it on the ground, pump it with you foot, and wallah. You have a 5-7 minute shower time. In our experience, this was not an option. It simply didn't work well at all.

So that sent us to the drawing board trying to figure out a way to get hot water that didnt' involve propane, and didn't require a water heater because we are really trying to be as "green" or eco-friendly as we can. What power we can harness from the sun we want to take advantage of.

I've posted a link of a YouTube video of a guy names Andrew Taylor who built his own smaller version on his bus. you'll want to skip to the end where he actually show the solar shower itself, but it actually shows him rinsing off in it. he seems perfectly content without seeming to be burned, BUT we have no clue how long that water has been sitting in there nor do we know the actual temp of the water coming out of his shower system. (Jump to 3:45 and that's where it'll start talking about his shower setup.)

Let me know your thoughts!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtZzRW96aB0&t=4s

[Robin97396]

An old water heater would make a nice holding tank for the solar water heater if you could figure out an easy way to circulate the water slowly.

[o1marc]

If you plan on using it as a holding tank for hot water I would not remove the outer can and insulation. If you could find a slow pump to keep it circulating that would give you constant hot water.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

there are simple 12v pumps that will do the job just fine.
An insulated storage tank is definitely need for the 1" pipe system and an old water heater would do just fine.
On a good hot southern day where the water WILL get above 210 degrees even with a circulating pump and a storage tank.
For the 4" pipe system it could get up to in the set up shown around 160-180 in the middle of the day but buy the time you want a shower at night it could be a little warmer than cause it's still cooling down what the outside temp is at that time if it's not encased in a box to protect it from airflow.
The box takes the air temp out of the solar equation because it blocks the air from effecting the pipe temp..
The 4" pipe scenario being used as the storage tank works as a gravity feed system.
With that being said. In a gravity fed system regardless of the size of pipe.
Weight of water per foot above ground/gravity level is 2.31 psi per foot above ground level.
I keep it simple on a small system and only figure the 2 which i do as a safety/piece of mind factor cause eventually the .31 adds up for the better. Regardless of what size of pipe.
At 10' above ground level you will only have 20psi of water pressure gravity fed.
Also in that system the fill funnel either has to be left open to the air for proper filling to get the air out to fill the piping completely or it needs a seperate vent to achieve that
Then as you are using that water if your fill tube is covered and you don't have a seperate vent the gravity fed at 20. Psi water is going to start chugging like a milk jug cause the piping doesn't allow it to breath either filling or using.
Leaving an open air vent in a potable water system is going to allow bacteria growth in the piping that you can't get rid of without dismantling and cleaning the insides of the piping itself.
Most that do that type of system have a fill plug at the high end of the pipe that has to be removed/loosened when needed .
I have several ideas that could support yours and or help advance them? But most require a pump and a small storage tank and dedicated safety devices.
I have helped build and have built many commercial water systems and can help simplify them.
But the best is using ethylene glycol as the solar fluid pumped and piping coiled around an
Old insulated water heater?
Good luck.

[msearslive]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

there are simple 12v pumps that will do the job just fine.
An insulated storage tank is definitely need for the 1" pipe system and an old water heater would do just fine.
On a good hot southern day where the water WILL get above 210 degrees even with a circulating pump and a storage tank.
For the 4" pipe system it could get up to in the set up shown around 160-180 in the middle of the day but buy the time you want a shower at night it could be a little warmer than cause it's still cooling down what the outside temp is at that time if it's not encased in a box to protect it from airflow.
The box takes the air temp out of the solar equation because it blocks the air from effecting the pipe temp..
The 4" pipe scenario being used as the storage tank works as a gravity feed system.
With that being said. In a gravity fed system regardless of the size of pipe.
Weight of water per foot above ground/gravity level is 2.31 psi per foot above ground level.
I keep it simple on a small system and only figure the 2 which i do as a safety/piece of mind factor cause eventually the .31 adds up for the better. Regardless of what size of pipe.
At 10' above ground level you will only have 20psi of water pressure gravity fed.
Also in that system the fill funnel either has to be left open to the air for proper filling to get the air out to fill the piping completely or it needs a seperate vent to achieve that
Then as you are using that water if your fill tube is covered and you don't have a seperate vent the gravity fed at 20. Psi water is going to start chugging like a milk jug cause the piping doesn't allow it to breath either filling or using.
Leaving an open air vent in a potable water system is going to allow bacteria growth in the piping that you can't get rid of without dismantling and cleaning the insides of the piping itself.
Most that do that type of system have a fill plug at the high end of the pipe that has to be removed/loosened when needed .
I have several ideas that could support yours and or help advance them? But most require a pump and a small storage tank and dedicated safety devices.
I have helped build and have built many commercial water systems and can help simplify them.
But the best is using ethylene glycol as the solar fluid pumped and piping coiled around an
Old insulated water heater?
Good luck.

As I've stated many times at this point, I am NOT a smart man when it comes to technical or mechanical stuff. I would love to sit down with you and have a discussion. Unfortunately, everything you just said here is 100% foreign language to me. I know, that's sad, but it's true.

I've been online nearly all day and my important person seems to be wanting attention - otherwise, I will get no natural loving tonight. And I have no time for that. Hahahaha.

I'll reach out tomorrow or as quickly as possible. For what it's worth - this sounds so smart that it has to be a good idea. I'll be in touch! :P

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Also add point of use thermostatic mixing valves which will mix the extra hot water at each sink itself.
PM me when you want I will respond when I can?

[roach711]

That 40 gal tank is going to claim a lot of space. "Twas me, I'd look for a 6 - 10 gallon tank for your hot water circ tank.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

I found a company called OPTRICS for 12v LED lighting exterior and also used several from Campmor.For basic 1157 style bulbs.interior some were airplane style switched, adjustable for each seat area and some were 3x6" fixed,switched for specific areas like kitchen cooking,eatin table. Bathroom.
My bus chassis has the 1157 bulbs so I carry spares anyway so why not match what I already have onboard.
For the LED it's not a bulb replacement at 2$ it's a light replacement at 30-40$?
My bus is old enough that I can and will use the KISS method.
Not cause I cai'nt do the work but if I can look ahead and think about how tomake my work easy later when I can't do the work easy/simple then that's me.
Just my opinion?

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

Sorry wrong thread?

[PNW_Steve]

Seeing this thread got me to thinking about a solar water heater that I looked at a few years ago. I have been trying to trying to track it down again and have had no luck.

The best way I can describe it is that it reminds me of the red licorice that I used to get at the cinema. The stuff where they are connected side by side. Picture 50 pieces of black tubing joined side by side making a flat sheet about 2' wide. They had it in rolls and would cut it to length for you. They provided manifolds for each end of it with a barbed fitting for each tube.

Anyone know where I can find this?

I am thinking that I would put this in line before my demand water heater to preheat the water.

Thanks

S.

[George]

Steve
Those solar sheets are for swimming pools , try the online pool suppliers for them.
George