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Old 09-15-2018, 10:44 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 13
Question Step by Step Plans, Help

Hey guys, our bus is arriving in three days, so I'm trying to have a plan in order to hit the ground running. I'm going to post my detailed plan and with ideas for materials/appliances, please let me know if anything seems wrong or if there's more to be elaborated on. If you've had better luck on anything or have experiences to share, please comment!! I've never done anything like this, so I'm gonna be stupid detailed hahaThank you

1. Remove all the seats, sell for scrap metal (Use Impact Driver?)
a. Grind/Remove seat brackets
b. Remove rubber flooring in the stairwell and entire bus
c. Remove heat/ducts inside and under bus
d. Pull up any plywood with a crow bar
e. Remove interior metal between the windows and chair rail (But DON'T REMOVE CHAIR RAIL
f. Remove wheel well covers and ceiling panels
g. Tear out fiberglass insulation
h. Make sure all the rivets are out and clean out
2. Use grinder to get rid of surface rust
a. Wire Brust the Whole floor
b. Powerwash
c. Use a degreaser (Any brand recs?) and thoroughly rinse
d. Use a rust-converter (Corroseal)
e. Patch any tiny holes (check for leaks during rain) with 3M 5200 Sealant
f. Paint over with Epoxy Paint to seal over the rust converter and wait 24 hours
3. Cut/drill holes for plumbing/electric, oh my
a. I'm still confused about this part. We'll be using a compost toilet of some sort on top of the wheel well, 1 sink, 1 small shower. If anyone has suggestions for electric set up for off-grid (minimal A/C and fridge use)?
b. Build a box to contain the generator/batteries
c. Run wires and outlets?
d. Mount a main and sub panel
e. Install Water Heater (Gravity fill/vent hose in the wall behind shower)
f. Install Water Tanks (30 Gal Fresh and Grey Water) under bus
g. Install 2 Propane Tanks (Where is recommended to put this?Driver side behind the wheel well?)
h. Put in ventilation tube over wheel well
4. Replace Windows OR insulate and seal them? (I'm not converting any of the windows into walls, except for possibly the shower. Just blackout curtains haha)
a. I figure RV windows are a bit too expensive to replace all 22 windows...
b. What is recommended to put on the windows to keep out the sun or insulate the windows better?
c. Caulk all the windows for leaks
d. Replace one of the windows in front of the range with a fan
5. INSULATE the ceiling and walls
a. Use Great Stuff expanding foam for walls. Put in slow to give time to expand and dry. Shave down.
b. Put insulation boards into ceiling. 3/8" Foam Boards with foil face?
c. Put up a frame for the wall material later. Wood between the windows? Furring Strips?
d. Put Ceiling panels back in
6. Subfloor
a. Install Radiant Heat Barrier (What kind of material is best for this? Paint on OR Foil?)
b. Install insulation (Spray? Foam Boards?)
c. Laydown Plywood/OSB (If using OSB leave gaps bc it expands
7. Tape Floorplans and cry (Use tape that comes up clean and easy)
8. Put in window A/C OR on the roof
9. Hope that the plumbing and electricity is all good, cover up wall insulation
10. Framing
a. Make cardboard cut outs to practice
b. Put up walls for the bathroom (If you mess up on the curve, use adhesive foam rubber strips to cover it?)
c. Box over wheel wells with plywood and whatever material is safe for a tiny pellet stove.
d. Create frame for bed, with about 2 1/2 feet storage underneath
e. Various storage frames
f. The awful attempt to make 2 pull-out sofas with storage underneath.
g. Make kitchen counters, with a pull out L-shape counter
h. Coat all the wood with stain/finish
11. Pray all the furniture is in the right spot. Put down flooring where there aren't any appliances
a. What kind of flooring do you all recommend?
12. Put up tile OR corrogated metal in shower
13. Lighting!
I'm thinking mostly long strings of LED lights and a few sconces.
14. Interior decoration and finishing?
15. Exterior
a. Paint with insulating paint
b. Install awning
And hopefully be ready to set sail? I know there must be lots I missed. I appreciate any recs!
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:05 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 13
We got our bus, 2003 Bluebird, 26.5'x7.5' interior space, CAT engine, and Allison transmission.

Jumped right in to get the seats out. One of us held the nuts under the bus while the other turned them inside BUT they were too rusted. WD40 didn't help. Some snapped off (lucky) but others are just too stuck for hand tools. I think we'll have to get an angle grinder or an air/impact tool (which we unfortunately don't have).

Any suggestions for stuck seats?
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:34 PM   #3
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I'm still new to all this, but just something I caught and wanted to address.



Quote:
Originally Posted by FabulousFox View Post
3. Cut/drill holes for plumbing/electric, oh my
c. Run wires and outlets?
...
5. INSULATE the ceiling and walls
...
9. Hope that the plumbing and electricity is all good, cover up wall insulation

You say you're thinking about running your electric wires, spray insulate, and then hope that it all works. Might be obvious, but I'd triple-check that electric works before spraying insulation because I imagine it'd be hell to rewire wires that are already sprayed down if something is wrong.


I think what I'd do is insulate and then run wires, that way in case something is wrong it's easier to troubleshoot. If that's a big no-no, I'd love for someone more knowledgeable to educate me.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:26 PM   #4
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If the plan calls for insulation over wiring...run some kind of conduit before you spray. Metal, plastic, pvc, whatever. Then you an at least pull as needed.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:54 PM   #5
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i'm a firm believer in On-Demand propane water heaters... I have no desire to keep a tank of hot water ready for when I desire to use it, in case I want to use it.
a 20# tank of propane will last me at least 3 months, and that's including a front load clothes washer, shower, and sink. but, I'm single
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:49 AM   #6
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I'll second Tango on running some sort of conduit. I ran my DC lighting runs before I spray foamed. The lights work! However, the dimmers I originally bought need the negative/ground run back to the dimmer. Probably not happening at this point. Also, if I were to do it again, I'd put my ceiling up last.
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:22 PM   #7
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiggins View Post
I'm still new to all this, but just something I caught and wanted to address.






You say you're thinking about running your electric wires, spray insulate, and then hope that it all works. Might be obvious, but I'd triple-check that electric works before spraying insulation because I imagine it'd be hell to rewire wires that are already sprayed down if something is wrong.


I think what I'd do is insulate and then run wires, that way in case something is wrong it's easier to troubleshoot. If that's a big no-no, I'd love for someone more knowledgeable to educate me.
VERY good point, I need even the 'obvious' pointed out haha It sounds like insulating and the running the wires is a good idea. Would the insulation not leave room for the wires, or would I just cut some of the insulation?

Thank you!
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:23 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
If the plan calls for insulation over wiring...run some kind of conduit before you spray. Metal, plastic, pvc, whatever. Then you an at least pull as needed.
Thank you! I'll be sure to do that. Do you suggest just doing the wiring after insulation? The plan is very flexible haha
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:25 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
i'm a firm believer in On-Demand propane water heaters... I have no desire to keep a tank of hot water ready for when I desire to use it, in case I want to use it.
a 20# tank of propane will last me at least 3 months, and that's including a front load clothes washer, shower, and sink. but, I'm single
Good to know a 20 Gal will last that long! Thank you!
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Old 09-20-2018, 01:27 PM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty View Post
I'll second Tango on running some sort of conduit. I ran my DC lighting runs before I spray foamed. The lights work! However, the dimmers I originally bought need the negative/ground run back to the dimmer. Probably not happening at this point. Also, if I were to do it again, I'd put my ceiling up last.
Ceiling up last, that's a good idea, since I'll probably forget something last minute! We're gonna try to reuse the original metal panels.
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