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Old 06-14-2017, 01:26 PM   #11
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is it worth gluing down the rigid foam panels? or can they float until screwed down with the plywood?
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Old 06-17-2017, 07:37 AM   #12
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If you plan to screw them down, I wouldn't waste time gluing them. The only thing it may help with is avoiding the insulation squeak when things shift.
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:18 AM   #13
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foam

IF you guys are desperate for height, spray foam the underside of floor 2" and just lay the plywood on the treated/sealed steel floor, Like BlueBird does from factory.

Or raise that roof ! I thought my wife was tall at 6'
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:50 PM   #14
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IF you guys are desperate for height, spray foam the underside of floor 2" and just lay the plywood on the treated/sealed steel floor, Like BlueBird does from factory.

Or raise that roof ! I thought my wife was tall at 6'
And hope like hell you never have to replace a fuel, brake, air line under the bus.
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Old 06-22-2017, 02:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
IF you guys are desperate for height, spray foam the underside of floor 2" and just lay the plywood on the treated/sealed steel floor, Like BlueBird does from factory.

Or raise that roof ! I thought my wife was tall at 6'
It's easy enough to isolate the wires and lines ahead of time. Im finding several examples online of people doing it to motor homes and campers. I also don't have air lines. Ill have to leave the spot over the fuel tank open though.
Is 2" necessary? I was thinking just 1".
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:11 AM   #16
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It's easy enough to isolate the wires and lines ahead of time. Im finding several examples online of people doing it to motor homes and campers. I also don't have air lines. Ill have to leave the spot over the fuel tank open though.
Is 2" necessary? I was thinking just 1".
I have air lines, air tanks, and for some damn reason a front fuel tank in an RE bus. With the rust conversion about complete, I guess I need to start making some "hard" decisions. Hard in that once made and committed, it will be difficult to undo.

Should I move the tank to the rear and get rid of the hatch and filler neck up front? Should I spray foam the floor and then foam board over it? Should I do radiant heating? That will only get me to the point of a plywood floor. It's going to start to get expensive fast. Appliances, electrical system, etc.
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:27 AM   #17
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I have air lines, air tanks, and for some damn reason a front fuel tank in an RE bus. With the rust conversion about complete, I guess I need to start making some "hard" decisions. Hard in that once made and committed, it will be difficult to undo.

Should I move the tank to the rear and get rid of the hatch and filler neck up front? Should I spray foam the floor and then foam board over it? Should I do radiant heating? That will only get me to the point of a plywood floor. It's going to start to get expensive fast. Appliances, electrical system, etc.
I hear ya. This is a super important step that you can't undo. We're just going to have to commit to something
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:40 AM   #18
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To this point I've just been farting around. Bought some lights, back up cameras, this and that kind of stuff that I can't even install yet. Welded a patch here and there. Slapped (sprayed) some paint on the outside. Did a terrible job masking.

Already screwing things up. I need to weld patches in the floor where the heater hoses went under the emergency door. Also need to finish the patch behind the driver's seat. Should have done that before treating the floor. I just wanted to get SOMETHING done so it looks like progress is being made. This time I think I'll just weld over the floor instead of trying to cut pieces to fit in the holes. The floor isn't exactly level anyway.
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:06 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
To this point I've just been farting around. Bought some lights, back up cameras, this and that kind of stuff that I can't even install yet. Welded a patch here and there. Slapped (sprayed) some paint on the outside. Did a terrible job masking.

Already screwing things up. I need to weld patches in the floor where the heater hoses went under the emergency door. Also need to finish the patch behind the driver's seat. Should have done that before treating the floor. I just wanted to get SOMETHING done so it looks like progress is being made. This time I think I'll just weld over the floor instead of trying to cut pieces to fit in the holes. The floor isn't exactly level anyway.
I did the exact same thing with my house Renos. Had to get little victories to motivate me and improve my mental state around the project.
So I should get the rust hole on my wheel well cleaned up and welded before treating the floor? I have a bunch of painted 26ga steel to cut up and flue down for the bolt holes. I'll undercoat them later with a rattle can
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Old 06-23-2017, 09:15 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by ZedEx View Post
I did the exact same thing with my house Renos. Had to get little victories to motivate me and improve my mental state around the project.
So I should get the rust hole on my wheel well cleaned up and welded before treating the floor? I have a bunch of painted 26ga steel to cut up and flue down for the bolt holes. I'll undercoat them later with a rattle can
I don't want these "short cuts" to bite me in the as5 but I don't have a lot of self discipline or patience when I'm hot and sweaty. Should have bought a heat gun to help with getting chalking off the walls at the floors. Instead I'm scraping with a pry bar. I still have a few spots with chalking and even a couple of plywood splinters under there. It's at the corners of the wall and floor, it'll be covered up, and not seen. But by the very same token, that's where any moisture and rust will eventually be.

If I'm covering up the easy stuff already, what's it going to be like when I need to cut true 45 angles to build a cabinet?
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