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Old 06-23-2017, 02:35 PM   #31
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the first time you move your bus 50 feet its going to be tweaked a different direction... vehicles are designed to flex to some extent... they arent completely rigid.. so trying to have a 100% square true floor is futile...

-Christopher
My floor is way off in that I would never consider adding flooring directly to the metal. Not that I'd want to but even tongue and grove wouldn't be level and may buckle. Valley to peak might be 1/2".

I've not looked closely at the walls yet.
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Old 06-23-2017, 02:37 PM   #32
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why is it that everyone is getting awesome heat waves but us??? grrrr.. the hottest I can seem to get here is an occasional day thats 90 with 80% humidity... I miss the days when we had real summers...

-Christopher
Go eat a cheeseburger but otherwise shut your mouth!!! The only awesome summer is the one that doesn't break 72°. I'm batting 0 of 48 on awesome summers.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:56 PM   #33
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It even gets hot in Alaska for a couple days.

That's why here in Oregon many of us don't bother with AC. The hot weather never seems to last more than a couple weeks. It's not hard to duck the heat for that long, and there can be a lot of expense in keeping the AC running over a period of years.
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Old 06-23-2017, 11:04 PM   #34
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And hope like hell you never have to replace a fuel, brake, air line under the bus.
Fuel and air lines are on the inner frame rail on my bus, foam is higher- between floor ribs above frame.

If you have tanks for water, foam those too.
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:16 AM   #35
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It even gets hot in Alaska for a couple days.
[Frist World Problems]I might could suffer thru it for 72 hrs but a full week would be too much.[F.W.P.]

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Fuel and air lines are on the inner frame rail on my bus, foam is higher- between floor ribs above frame.

If you have tanks for water, foam those too.
Mine seem to be about mid frame I think. I'd have to get back under there and take a look again. Around the air tanks and diff would be tricky to spray just because of wand angle if nothing else. Might could be worth the effort tho. Especially if I do a floor raise. Seal it from below. Foam board from above and glued for any missed nail holes. That will leave the under floor storage nice and flat.

I don't have any tanks except fuel at the moment but thx for the idea.
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:11 PM   #36
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Sorry to derail the discussion, but I found this rubberized asphalt stuff by the gallon and it seems perfect to seal the metal before laying the plywood on. Even adds some sound proofing apparently. Could definetley use some of that.
https://www.dominionsureseal.com/pro...ating-sufsufv/

The only problem is that I wanted to construction glue my plywood down instead of screws through the floor. think this stuff will cause adhesion issues?
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Old 06-26-2017, 06:30 PM   #37
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If sealing of the floor is the main reason for spraying foam you might also consider a "pedestrian traffic coating" such as Vulkem 351.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulkem 350/351 Data Sheet
Vulkem® 350/351 is a composite waterproofing system comprised of tough-curing liquid polyurethane. It cures to form a rubber membrane surface that provides a lasting and easy-to-clean coating. Textured surfaces for pedestrian traffic will use an aggregate-laden top membrane to aid in wear and slip resistance. Vulkem 350/351 may be used to apply a seamless, monolithic waterproof membrane to concrete and primed metal surfaces.
I've used it as a coating over outdoor wooden decks in a residential setting. It's not the cheapest stuff, so how it compares in cost to lay this down followed by foam board versus simply spraying full-depth foam I'm not sure. Tremco also makes caulks also under their Vulkem name which might be appropriate for sealing every little nail hole individually rather than rolling a coat across the entire floor.
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:35 AM   #38
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If sealing of the floor is the main reason for spraying foam you might also consider a "pedestrian traffic coating" such as Vulkem 351.


I've used it as a coating over outdoor wooden decks in a residential setting. It's not the cheapest stuff, so how it compares in cost to lay this down followed by foam board versus simply spraying full-depth foam I'm not sure. Tremco also makes caulks also under their Vulkem name which might be appropriate for sealing every little nail hole individually rather than rolling a coat across the entire floor.
It'll work for teh nail holes but then so will a smashed gnat's as5. What about the bolt holes? Those are bigger and depending on how liquid this stuff is...
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:50 AM   #39
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The edges around the wooden decks I mentioned earlier are created by forming a dam with duct tape wrapped around the perimeter. The stuff is definitely thinner than gelatin, but it doesn't take much tape strength to hold it in for a few hours while the product sets. Bolt holes could be taped on the underside, product applied on the top side, and so long as the tape can hang on for an hour or two the product will remain in place sealing over the hole.
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Old 06-27-2017, 11:54 AM   #40
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Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
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The edges around the wooden decks I mentioned earlier are created by forming a dam with duct tape wrapped around the perimeter. The stuff is definitely thinner than gelatin, but it doesn't take much tape strength to hold it in for a few hours while the product sets. Bolt holes could be taped on the underside, product applied on the top side, and so long as the tape can hang on for an hour or two the product will remain in place sealing over the hole.
That's problematic for a number of reasons. 1) I'm not sure the tape would stick to whatever dirt and grime is under there 2) Can I reach them all? 3) I missed one.
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