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Old 06-27-2017, 12:27 PM   #41
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Join Date: May 2009
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Chassis: International S3800
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68 degrees for a high today.. ugh...

anyway, I sealed my bolt holes by filling them with flex-shot. of course thats leaving the plywood in the bus.. if I had taken the wood out id be inclined to coat the bottom of sheet aluminum pieces with flex shot and "glue them down.." then roll the whole floor with a nice rubberized coating which would take care of the nail holes.. then insulate , subfloor , and final floor.. the holes from seats are typically in groups so you dont need a piece of metal for each hole..

-Christopher
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:26 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
68 degrees for a high today.. ugh...
Sounds like a nice day. Also does NOT sound like an FL day.

Quote:
the holes from seats are typically in groups so you dont need a piece of metal for each hole..

-Christopher
The fuel tank and diff are in the way of at least some of the holes. I'm not patching the bolt holes tho. I've got one patch that is 12" x 24" and needs another 3" on the end of it yet. My other two patches are less than 4" x 4" and I'll need two more of those to cover where the heater hoses went under the E door. The big patch covers where the heater went under the driver's seat and replaces the worst of the rust on the entire bus. I think I'll leave the rear bulkhead hole where the hoses entered the bus. May use it for the radiant heat; no point in patching just to punch a new hole later.

I'm still thinking floor raise too.
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:30 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Sounds like a nice day. Also does NOT sound like an FL day.

The fuel tank and diff are in the way of at least some of the holes. I'm not patching the bolt holes tho. I've got one patch that is 12" x 24" and needs another 3" on the end of it yet. My other two patches are less than 4" x 4" and I'll need two more of those to cover where the heater hoses went under the E door. The big patch covers where the heater went under the driver's seat and replaces the worst of the rust on the entire bus. I think I'll leave the rear bulkhead hole where the hoses entered the bus. May use it for the radiant heat; no point in patching just to punch a new hole later.

I'm still thinking floor raise too.
oh I was thinking you were working up top.. ive never tried to patch anything from underneath... theres a lot of stuff in the way in a front engine bus trying to work from below. i guess a little less clutter in an RE


.. you'll probably want that driver heat at some point unless you dont plan to travel in cold or rainy weather...

the 68 degrees is in ohio.. I havent been to florida in a month.. I have my main tools and garage and such up here so its easier for large projects like the trans swap.
-Christopher
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:35 PM   #44
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Any one have any comments about my dilemma?
That's a good idea about the tape on the underside. I'll probably do that before putting my sealer down
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:02 PM   #45
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Sorry to derail the discussion, but I found this rubberized asphalt stuff by the gallon and it seems perfect to seal the metal before laying the plywood on. Even adds some sound proofing apparently. Could definetley use some of that.
https://www.dominionsureseal.com/pro...ating-sufsufv/

The only problem is that I wanted to construction glue my plywood down instead of screws through the floor. think this stuff will cause adhesion issues?
Not sure I follow.. you wrote "rubberized asphalt stuff" but the product linked to says it "contains no asphalt." It does claim to be paintable which is surely a good sign for your use.

I'd suggest to try calling their technical support/sales department to inquire whether they expect your chosen adhesive should be compatible. If they aren't confident that it is, then buy a sample of each and test their compatibility yourself. Or, if they're just not helpful with advice on your application, maybe choose other products from vendors who are more helpful.
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:10 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
Not sure I follow.. you wrote "rubberized asphalt stuff" but the product linked to says it "contains no asphalt." It does claim to be paintable which is surely a good sign for your use.

I'd suggest to try calling their technical support/sales department to inquire whether they expect your chosen adhesive should be compatible. If they aren't confident that it is, then buy a sample of each and test their compatibility yourself. Or, if they're just not helpful with advice on your application, maybe choose other products from vendors who are more helpful.
Oops quoted the wrong stuff. Same manufacturer

https://www.google.ca/url?q=https://...9DgCArn7X3KR_A
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:21 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
oh I was thinking you were working up top.. ive never tried to patch anything from underneath... theres a lot of stuff in the way in a front engine bus trying to work from below. i guess a little less clutter in an RE
I am working from the top. Spraying from the bottom was the conversion tho right? Quite possible I'm off in la la land again/still. Too much rust dust will do that to you.

Quote:
.. you'll probably want that driver heat at some point unless you dont plan to travel in cold or rainy weather...
I want the driver's heat if for no other reason than defrost. The holes and routing of the hoses on my bus seem to be home made. Literally a U cut and teh "flap" is hammered down. Only the U is the U from the scientific micro (they have a tail cut thru the flooring). No idea why.

Quote:
the 68 degrees is in ohio.. I havent been to florida in a month.. I have my main tools and garage and such up here so its easier for large projects like the trans swap.
-Christopher
I think it is safe to say we've established that your idea of cold and mine VASTLY differ. Everything else may be as clear as mud but that one has been put to bed.
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:32 PM   #48
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Join Date: Oct 2016
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Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, AT643, 4.44 rear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
.. you'll probably want that driver heat at some point unless you dont plan to travel in cold or rainy weather...

-Christopher
P.S. Keeping the heat but just running the lines under the bus is the current plan. Right now I'm not thinking about running the heater lines inside the bus at all. I can clean up all the connections and just run a single pair copper lines front to back without the breaks, rubber to metal, etc. If/when I run radiant heat, I can probably T off of the line under the bus and just put in another pump in series if need be. I'm pretty sure the system as it is now was designed by a guy that got paid by the 90° elbow. Either that or his brother-in-law owned a warehouse full of them. I have no idea why it is the way it is.

It comes out of the engine on the left side. Runs all the way to the right side to a pump, then comes back all the way left and goes into the passenger compartment. There's plenty of room on the left side for mounting the pump so why cross to the right? Only thing I can think of is they were trying to increase the capacity without increasing radiator or tank. I drove it to the car wash (i.e. not hard) but the temp stayed where it was even after bypassing the 80 foot loop to the front.
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Old 06-28-2017, 06:24 PM   #49
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HELL, Chris....we feel really special if it gets DOWN to 68 at night here in Houston. Today it's about 93 with around 86 humidity. VERY Houston today.
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