Thomas skinning process...rivet removal questions.

[rewou812]

I removed all the rivets on the inside, mainly the roof and walls. Was no problem using a drill bit. The bit need to be just larger than the through hole in the rivet. The head will pop right off and collect on your bit, watch out they are hot to the touch. I used the same drill bit through the entire process.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by rewou812

I removed all the rivets on the inside, mainly the roof and walls. Was no problem using a drill bit. The bit need to be just larger than the through hole in the rivet. The head will pop right off and collect on your bit, watch out they are hot to the touch. I used the same drill bit through the entire process.

What kind of drill bits are you using that will go through a hardened mandrel?

[tugboater]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

What kind of drill bits are you using that will go through a hardened mandrel?

I'd like to know the answer to that too! Before I realized that drilling the top rail rivets was a silly idea I bought a bunch from a local fasteners place. They worked better than anything I can get at Home Depot (and cheaper) Thunderbit I think? I'm not steady and straight enough at odd angles either. I snap the ones I don't dull after a dozen rivets or so...even if I'm diligent with the lube.

[boilerguy666]

Originally Posted by o1marc

The rivet head will shear off with the chisel much easier after the mandrel has been knocked out.

I removed all the internal rivets on a Blue Bird Conventional and after lots of trial and error I found that an air chisel is the best. You remove the mandrel with the punch and then the head with a chisel. The chisel and punch can be easily kept usable with a hand file. Using the punch on a whole bunch of rivets and then the chisel you can move along quite quickly. Warning. When removing the roof rivets make sure you have help. Even then it can be exciting when the last rivet gives away.