To Sound Deaden or Not to Sound Deaden?

[Smokey's pipe dream]

the best advise i can give you about sound deadening is we'll use how a hotel room wall is supposed to be framed for an example ! now when you frame a wall you do it in a manner where there isn't any solid transfer points you use a 2 x 6 plate on the floor and ceiling but you use 2 x 4's for the studs! you frame 16" on center on one side leaving a 2" void but on the other side you frame up so the studs(2 x 4's) are centered between the studs on the other side staying flush with the alternate side,so you end up with them alternating back and forth from side to side of the plate then you weave you're fiberglass insulation laying down in behind the studs this keeps any sound from transferring because there is no solid place for it to travel through, it gets interrupted! so if you keep this in mind you'll have a soundproof anything you want to an extent like with a bus its already framed with steel the best sound transferring material there is so its a losing battle to a point unless you can cover it with another insulated surface completely if you don't any place that isn't insulated that transfers sound will be just like a speaker i hope i haven't confused you i hope you get the gist of it! because this is the only way to truly deaden the sound if you just put mat on the floor yeah it will help some, but you have the framing coming up from the same area working like a speaker so really you need to cover everything with some sort of insulated interior and this needs to be done before you build cabinets up front around the drivers/entry area if not you still have transfer I've tried to explain it best i can that's not saying much but anyways rambled enough i sound like an idiot probably but the theory is there! ~happytrails~

[vintageracer]

Found this information concerning the Home Depot product referenced above for sound deadening, its ASTM standard rating and its use by those for sound dampening in a vehicle.

Remember this is a ROOFING product.

Refer to the question's and answer's section in the link below by scrolling down the link below:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/USEAL-US...2AF6/202086180

[frodo2222]

I used lowes ac sealer with aluminum side and sticky rubber on other 1 foot by 15 feet 18$ piece of cake and much cheaper and works just as well as other stuff made for it, dropped noise by about half after just doing doors and some of floir on a F250 truck

[OrionsComfortBus]

Originally Posted by vintageracer

You can buy a lot of ear plugs for the cost of Dynamat or Foam insulation!

Yes that is true. But I believe most are looking to have conversations without yelling.

My bus has gotten quieter since the differential change. No screaming engine and turbo makes a big difference. I'm looking at getting better insulation but lowering the noise is also a goal. Perhaps we can kill two birds with one stone with the dynamat.

Thanks to the OP for the post.

[crowcreekcabin]

Originally Posted by OrionsComfortBus

Yes that is true. But I believe most are looking to have conversations without yelling.

My bus has gotten quieter since the differential change. No screaming engine and turbo makes a big difference. I'm looking at getting better insulation but lowering the noise is also a goal. Perhaps we can kill two birds with one stone with the dynamat.

Thanks to the OP for the post.

Agreed!.. So, if we are just gonna use ear plugs... what are we doing with the rest of the bus?...?...
Just throw some lawn chairs in the back and a couple sleeping bags on the floor and roll?.. That is one workable style..

But, if you have been working on trying to make it "nice"... the sound deadener was one of the cheaper upgrades in mine..

Cheaper than the new rear differential gearing for sure!... But I did that on mine too!.. 6.68 to 5.29... waaaaay better.

I have other rigs that require earplugs if I need to rule.. my other IH has dual straight pipe stacks right behind the cab.and a 392...
Not what I was going for in the bus...

[ladybird_bus]

Originally Posted by crowcreekcabin

Agreed!.. So, if we are just gonna use ear plugs... what are we doing with the rest of the bus?...?...
Just throw some lawn chairs in the back and a couple sleeping bags on the floor and roll?.. That is one workable style..

But, if you have been working on trying to make it "nice"... the sound deadener was one of the cheaper upgrades in mine..

Cheaper than the new rear differential gearing for sure!... But I did that on mine too!.. 6.68 to 5.29... waaaaay better.

I have other rigs that require earplugs if I need to rule.. my other IH has dual straight pipe stacks right behind the cab.and a 392...
Not what I was going for in the bus...

Yep.
There's lots of ways to do a Skoolie - and that's one of the things that's so cool about them - but we want ours to be as upscale as possible and to me, that doesn't include earplugs as a solution

I'm looking to make the ride as quiet and comfortable as possible, so I really appreciate all the feedback and especially from those who've installed some sort of sound deadener.

I've learned so much from you all already! Thank you.

[ladybird_bus]

Originally Posted by OrionsComfortBus

Yes that is true. But I believe most are looking to have conversations without yelling.

My bus has gotten quieter since the differential change. No screaming engine and turbo makes a big difference. I'm looking at getting better insulation but lowering the noise is also a goal. Perhaps we can kill two birds with one stone with the dynamat.

Thanks to the OP for the post.

You're welcome!
It looks as if spray-in closed cell foam can do the job of both insulating and sound proofing, so that's what we've decided to do for the ceiling and walls, with a heavy duty foil insulation over the top as both moisture barrier and an extra layer of insulation. The floor in the back will get foam board, while the firewall will get sound deadening foil with automotive carpet over the top.

[peakbus]

[QUOTE=WoodenYouKnowIt;312328]I have an old Volvo Sedan that I put Dynamat in a few years ago. I put the

https://www.homedepot.com/p/USEAL-US...2AF6/202086180

With the exception of the HD stuff coming in 6" wide rolls, it's the very same stuff as Dynamat.

QUOTE]

With all the discussions about sealing bolt holes in floors, I got to thinking about the Home Depot roofing product above. Seems like it would do double duty sealing holes and deadening floor noise. I might roll strips down the line where the bulk of my holes are and some extra at panels near the engine and rear axle. You could even lay small metal patches over the holes as you go.

[o1marc]

[QUOTE=peakbus;313177]

Originally Posted by WoodenYouKnowIt

I have an old Volvo Sedan that I put Dynamat in a few years ago. I put the

https://www.homedepot.com/p/USEAL-US...2AF6/202086180

With the exception of the HD stuff coming in 6" wide rolls, it's the very same stuff as Dynamat.

QUOTE]

With all the discussions about sealing bolt holes in floors, I got to thinking about the Home Depot roofing product above. Seems like it would do double duty sealing holes and deadening floor noise. I might roll strips down the line where the bulk of my holes are and some extra at panels near the engine and rear axle. You could even lay small metal patches over the holes as you go.

I like the idea of that product for sealing holes, so I went to HD to check it out. I found this product next to it on the shelf. Basically the same product with a plastic facing instead of foil. This is a 50' roll for $2 more than the 25' roll of the other. If I cut the roll in half I will have 100'. When I lay the rigid board down I can remove the plastic facing and help "tape" the board down.

[peakbus]

[QUOTE=o1marc;313201]

Originally Posted by peakbus

I like the idea of that product for sealing holes, so I went to HD to check it out. I found this product next to it on the shelf. Basically the same product with a plastic facing instead of foil. This is a 50' roll for $2 more than the 25' roll of the other. If I cut the roll in half I will have 100'. When I lay the rigid board down I can remove the plastic facing and help "tape" the board down.

Good call!

[o1marc]

[QUOTE=peakbus;313202]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Good call!

And if you need more, they have a 33' x 9" for $20, but that is more per sq.foot than the smaller rolls.

[cadillackid]

someone recently was using a professional sound and heat deadening material made for firewalls.. I lost track of the post and what the product was.. it wasnt cheap.. does anyone remember? it was foiled backed I think? they were using it on their doghouse and in their bus.. I need to find something that is both sound and heat deadening.. things like dynamat do ZERO for the heat... ..


if someone remembers this product.. let me know.. i
-Christopher

[peakbus]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

someone recently was using a professional sound and heat deadening material made for firewalls.. I lost track of the post and what the product was.. it wasnt cheap.. does anyone remember? it was foiled backed I think? they were using it on their doghouse and in their bus.. I need to find something that is both sound and heat deadening.. things like dynamat do ZERO for the heat... ..


if someone remembers this product.. let me know.. i
-Christopher

Here you go: dBmat WM2 Barrier with Foam Decoupler is what I used: dBmat WM2 Barrier with Foam Decoupler – dB Engineering They have a ton of products but they can be hard to find on their site. I called and they recommended it for this application.

[OrionsComfortBus]

Looks good. Did you use it and if so, what was the result?

I'm looking to apply something to the inner skin of the ceiling & walls. Looking at my doghouse, it's Insulation is falling apart, possibly on the firewall as well.

[peakbus]

Originally Posted by OrionsComfortBus

Looks good. Did you use it and if so, what was the result?

I'm looking to apply something to the inner skin of the ceiling & walls. Looking at my doghouse, it's Insulation is falling apart, possibly on the firewall as well.

I used the db mat in my engine compartment and inside an additional cover I made over the original dog house so I have two layers. It improved engine noise quite a bit though I only got one test trip in last fall before I parked for the winter to begin my build-out. http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/me...e-25399-2.html

[dogeron52]

try Harbor Freight floor mats for metal sides deadening.They might have some insulating value. And their cheap. just thinkin.....


marty

[Ravendancer]

great explanation.

Originally Posted by Smokey's pipe dream

the best advise i can give you about sound deadening is we'll use how a hotel room wall is supposed to be framed for an example ! now when you frame a wall you do it in a manner where there isn't any solid transfer points you use a 2 x 6 plate on the floor and ceiling but you use 2 x 4's for the studs! you frame 16" on center on one side leaving a 2" void but on the other side you frame up so the studs(2 x 4's) are centered between the studs on the other side staying flush with the alternate side,so you end up with them alternating back and forth from side to side of the plate then you weave you're fiberglass insulation laying down in behind the studs this keeps any sound from transferring because there is no solid place for it to travel through, it gets interrupted! so if you keep this in mind you'll have a soundproof anything you want to an extent like with a bus its already framed with steel the best sound transferring material there is so its a losing battle to a point unless you can cover it with another insulated surface completely if you don't any place that isn't insulated that transfers sound will be just like a speaker i hope i haven't confused you i hope you get the gist of it! because this is the only way to truly deaden the sound if you just put mat on the floor yeah it will help some, but you have the framing coming up from the same area working like a speaker so really you need to cover everything with some sort of insulated interior and this needs to be done before you build cabinets up front around the drivers/entry area if not you still have transfer I've tried to explain it best i can that's not saying much but anyways rambled enough i sound like an idiot probably but the theory is there! ~happytrails~