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Old 05-06-2017, 12:43 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by leadsled01 View Post
I swear by step bits for thin metal like you described. Standard bits catch and then break. Step bits seem to cut better. IMO Also when using standard bits, a slow speed is better.
I marrying one of these, if I ever have the chance:

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Millicent The Bus - roof raised two feet, toy-hauler tailgate.
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/th...gate-1564.html
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Old 05-06-2017, 03:32 AM   #12
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Try these...

These sturdy fasteners can be drilled right through your stud and into the metal in one fell swoop! They're a God-send when lumber-framing in a bus.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman...Screws/3036242

(I picked a random length for the link.)
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Old 05-06-2017, 09:42 AM   #13
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I LOVE my step drills. If you gotta work on sheet metal...you gotta have one...or several.
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Old 05-06-2017, 09:55 AM   #14
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Where you put the 5/8 hole is also a problem as you have to locate it to suit the rib size.
Off a little and your either hitting the hat side going up to roof panel or falling off the rim.
Why such a big hole?
Gonna use wing bolts?
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Old 05-08-2017, 05:08 AM   #15
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When I attached my framing to the ribs I just used long self tapping screws, worked like a champ.

I did drill pilot holes to screw in my wood ceiling, and I just used a regular drill bit, nothing special.
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:16 AM   #16
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Location: Essex, MD
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Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
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Originally Posted by Elliot Naess View Post
I marrying one of these, if I ever have the chance:
I have one of those. Have you used it on the rivets yet.
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Old 05-08-2017, 07:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
Where you put the 5/8 hole is also a problem as you have to locate it to suit the rib size.
Off a little and your either hitting the hat side going up to roof panel or falling off the rim.
Why such a big hole?
Gonna use wing bolts?
Mark stuff.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:47 AM   #18
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If lots of drilling is in your future, invest in a drill bit sharpener. I have the Drill Doctor 750X (it replaces an older DD 700 that was stolen last year) which works very well. It's nice to be able to sharpen bits to as-new condition in less than a minute, and with the price of decent USA-made bits these days the sharpener will more than pay for itself. If I'm drilling in harder materials such as stainless steel or the very tough 90,000 PSI steel that Crown used for their buses, I resharpen the bit after just one or two holes to keep it in perfect condition. You can also adjust the relief angle for better chip removal if drilling through sticky materials like copper and brass. It's an indispensable tool for me.

John
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:04 AM   #19
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Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceni John View Post
If lots of drilling is in your future, ...
What are you using for bits? Cobalt, tungsten, Kriptonite? I'm not even sure what materials they are using these days. And will your Drill Doctor care?
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Old 05-08-2017, 12:50 PM   #20
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I mostly use plain HSS, but US-made bits wherever possible. For the tougher stuff I either use sulfured cutting oil, or use cobalt bits with cutting oil, and they seem to sharpen as well as the HSS. I've never tried to sharpen carbide bits - I don't want to risk damaging the DD's diamond grinding wheel. Maybe when the wheel is worn out and needing to be replaced anyway I could experiment with a carbide, but that's not any time soon because the grinding wheels last a very long time.

John
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