What drill bit does one use to drill through ceiling

[mad.am.scientist]

I think I am confident in knowing what a rivet is but just to clarify: they are the row of "button"-looking fasteners that go in horizontal lines across the width of the bus, keeping the metal ceiling sheets together...right?

We are currently also looking at drilling through the ceiling but hesitant because even though there is a gap between sheets, we don't want insulation to get in the bus (fiberglass dust, anyone?) nor do we want any leaks to happen when it rains.

Following this intently, so far it seems it's ok to drill into the original ceiling or to hammer a nail through?

A circular saw can get through anything on the bus; we had to use it a lot esp. on the entrance of our last bus (RIP AquariBus)

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by mad.am.scientist

I think I am confident in knowing what a rivet is but just to clarify: they are the row of "button"-looking fasteners that go in horizontal lines across the width of the bus, keeping the metal ceiling sheets together...right?

We are currently also looking at drilling through the ceiling but hesitant because even though there is a gap between sheets, we don't want insulation to get in the bus (fiberglass dust, anyone?) nor do we want any leaks to happen when it rains.

Following this intently, so far it seems it's ok to drill into the original ceiling or to hammer a nail through?

A circular saw can get through anything on the bus; we had to use it a lot esp. on the entrance of our last bus (RIP AquariBus)

Air chisel if you have an air compressor. They, the chisel, are stupid cheap. Compressors not so much.

There are two common type of rivets; solid and mandrel. The ones with the sharp post are the mandrel rivets (blind rivets). Blue Bird uses both. If it's an exterior rivet and they ca get to it, they use solid rivets. Interior and can't get to the back side, they use blind rivets.

On the corner of the bus, the blind rivets have teh "button" in the center. To remove them, use a punch to push the pin back and then shear the head off. The bodies are AL. The pin can be AL or steel. If you have deep pockets you can buy blind rivets in stainless for both

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

Air chisel if you have an air compressor. They, the chisel, are stupid cheap. Compressors not so much.

There are two common type of rivets; solid and mandrel. The ones with the sharp post are the mandrel rivets (blind rivets). Blue Bird uses both. If it's an exterior rivet and they ca get to it, they use solid rivets. Interior and can't get to the back side, they use blind rivets.

On the corner of the bus, the blind rivets have teh "button" in the center. To remove them, use a punch to push the pin back and then shear the head off. The bodies are AL. The pin can be AL or steel. If you have deep pockets you can buy blind rivets in stainless for both

Bus manufacturers do NOT use Aluminum rivets. At least not BB or IC. I've de-riveted three of them and never found an aluminum rivet on a bus. Are your bus' factory rivets aluminum??
Galvanic corrosion is very real, and is why you don't use aluminum fasteners on steel.
I have very shallow pockets and bought stainless. A thousand premium rivets cost around $300. You can get plain steel too.
Cost of doing business. Plain steel solid rivets are the best, but I've not messed with them myself yet.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Bus manufacturers do NOT use Aluminum rivets. At least not BB or IC. I've de-riveted three of them and never found an aluminum rivet on a bus. Are your bus' factory rivets aluminum??
Galvanic corrosion is very real, and is why you don't use aluminum fasteners on steel.
I have very shallow pockets and bought stainless. A thousand premium rivets cost around $300. You can get plain steel too.
Cost of doing business. Plain steel solid rivets are the best, but I've not messed with them myself yet.

Guess I need to find a magnet. My ceiling rivets came out way too easy to be steel. The exteriors gave a better fight even in the blinds.

When shopping online I saw AL bodies with AL mandrel, AL body with FE mandrel, and SS body & mandrel. I didn't see any FE/FE.

[EastCoastCB]

I got a thousand plain steel pop rivets from Grainger on clearance for fifty bucks.
The ceiling rivets are a lot softer than exterior for whatever reason, but they're steel.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I got a thousand plain steel pop rivets from Grainger on clearance for fifty bucks.
The ceiling rivets are a lot softer than exterior for whatever reason, but they're steel.

I shopped there too but didn't see any all steel except the solids. I'm not doubting you but I have a hard time with mine being steel. Far too easy and they look like AL. The gray dull look. If they are steel they are the cheapest pot metal steal that the Chinese ever made.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

I shopped there too but didn't see any all steel except the solids. I'm not doubting you but I have a hard time with mine being steel. Far too easy and they look like AL. The gray dull look. If they are steel they are the cheapest pot metal steal that the Chinese ever made.

They are a more ductile type of steel. Helps when they have to be deformed into position. Also helps when you have to chisel them off, although some work-hardening will have happened.

[Brewerbob]

So am I looking at these right? Drive rivets are the "opposite" of the mandrel rivets. Instead of pulling the pun, you hammer it in?
https://rivetsinstock.com/rivets/ste...ve-rivets.html

What's the difference between a closed rivet and a basic blind rivet? I was shopping and bought closed which are teh ones that I couldn't find in FE/FE. The basic blind is available in FE/FE.

[tuckeroo]

Originally Posted by mjfreespirit

So I have decided to leave my ceiling in my 1996 Bluebird school bus up, now I am facing the Dilemma of trying to get my studs into the metal ceiling, moreover the part of the metal ceiling where the two panels meet where all the rivets are. I've tried a Milwakee 5/8 inch what they claim to be Cobalt drill bit and the darn thing just keeps breaking, the ceiling can't be that hard can it? Really need some good solid guidance on what drill bit to purchase.

Hey everyone,
We also decided to leave the metal ceiling in our 1998 Bluebird skoolie and are having a VERY difficult time getting our bedroom furring strips screwed into the steel ribs of the ceiling. We have tried drilling pilot holes and using self tapping metal screws.

We would love to NOT remove the rivets and ceiling if possible because as shown in the photo, we already put up some reflective insulation and put a lot of blood and sweat into it already. *(No tears yet, lol).

Help!

[musigenesis]

What kind of self-drilling/self-tapping screws are you using? Since you're putting this over the original ceiling, is it possible some of your screws are hitting the rivets underneath?

FWIW your reflectix won't be doing you much good anyway, in case you end up having to remove it.

[Danjo]

Get tek wood to metal screws. Use an impact gun.

[tuckeroo]

Originally Posted by Danjo

Get tek wood to metal screws. Use an impact gun.

That's what we've been using with an impact driver. I think at this point we are going to have to remove the rivets following the advice of another person from a thread on the skoolie.net forum. Wish us luck!

[tuckeroo]

We're using the wood to metal tek screws and an impact driver. I think at this point we will have to remove the rivets and the ceiling. Thanks for your response.

[WIbluebird]

Blue Bird spaces the rivets almost right next to each other in the ceiling ribs. I would plan on taking it all out and doing furring strips.