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Old 10-10-2016, 06:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Goatherder View Post
NO! You've got 8hr pot life after you mix in the catalyst. And I think that varies with temperature.
Thanks that's good to know.... I will need 2-3 gallons of paint (might get by with 2 since I'm just doing the bottom half in the blue, based on 400 sf per gallon coverage estimate from Home Depot website) and was just gonna mix up the whole batch at one shot to avoid color differences.... I guess I could mix all the paint together to even out the color, then just add 3 oz acetone and 2 oz hardener per quart as needed into the roller tray.

I hadn't considered doing the wheels to match.... if there's any paint left maybe I'll do that as well.

I'll also be painting the stop sign over (leaving it on because I don't want extra holes to patch.) I wonder if I could find blue light covers to replace the reds on the sign.... just to be clear they aren't going to be used, just to avoid the clash of red on blue.
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:50 PM   #22
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on my new bus im going to try getting away with just making all the lenses orange or clear and see if i get bothered.. im gonna take the stop sign off and use rubber Plugs most likely to plug the holes. little silicon and theyll look like an option that was never installed
-Christopjer
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:53 PM   #23
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I planned on mixing my two gallons of white and whatever amounts of blue and green to get aqua all in a 5 gallon bucket. Then I will pour out gallon, half gallon, whatever it is a need for the day and add the acetone and hardener accordingly to each batch. That way my paint color stays consistent. The hardener is 1 can per gallon and has a shelf life of 8 hours. So only mix what you might need at the time and you won't waste your paint or have the catalyst go bad. The acetone I will mix depending on how thick the paint seems and how it rolls. Thin enough to smooth out but not so thin it runs. Several thin coats are better than a thick one and you have less chance of the orange peel effect with thinner paint. I used to paint wooden boats and that was my approach ( minus the hardener). The bus is a first for me. Rustoleum is also a first.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:00 PM   #24
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The stop sign. Well, my idea was to take out the screws and wiring, then the holes are to be filled with screws that have a rubber gasket that are designed for corrugated roofing. The threads will get a bit of caulk before they go in. This seems like a simple approach with very little work. I'm getting smarter as I go. SO much work. So much still to do. My list keeps growing the deeper I get into this.
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Old 10-10-2016, 07:06 PM   #25
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Liberace was THE MAN!
And this would be his bus

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Old 10-11-2016, 10:21 AM   #26
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BTW...My bad! Floetrol is indeed for latex paint. Penetrol is the variety for oil based. Sorry 'bout that. Both are "flow" control products.
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Old 10-11-2016, 10:36 AM   #27
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what does it do? help the paint to not run?
-Christopher
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Old 10-11-2016, 11:05 AM   #28
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I wish! No, but it does improve the flow. Goes on smoother and with less drag when using a brush or roller. Also helps when spraying to aid adhesion and helps prevent corrosion. Good stuff. I've used it for decades.

Hingst's Sign Post: Penetrol Paint Conditioner
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:02 PM   #29
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So do you use the Penetrol in addition to the acetone, or in place of it?
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Old 10-11-2016, 04:16 PM   #30
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Penetrol is strictly a conditioner. Whatever thinner you use, go by the ratios recommended by the paint maker.
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