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Old 01-21-2011, 09:58 PM   #31
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Re: Window skinning options?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMac
Quote:
Originally Posted by lornaschinske
That is not a look that everyone likes.
Are you speaking for your family again ... or everyone else!
Okay just an FYI... I AM SPEAKING FOR MY SELF AND?OR MY FAMILY.

I do not speak for the people on this or any other forum.
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:46 AM   #32
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Re: Window skinning options?

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Originally Posted by Smitty
I'll update as time goes by (as in 12-24 months) as to how my FRP panels hold-up. I did it as a quick-fix to cover some extremely fugly metal panels underneath. I'd given it some thought prior to using it, but with a couple heavy coats of hardened enamel, I didn't have much in the way of concerns regarding UV. Maybe I was right, maybe not....time will tell. If it lasts 5 years (but I'm betting longer), for $250 I'll just do it again.

Smitty

I appreciate the feedback. How did you fasten your FRPs.
I was thinking of interior connections backed with fiberglass layment to avoid telltale signs of fasteners on outside exterior.
With the exception of caulking exterior edges - I would think this would work. It seems to the be the normal application in the RV industry today
but they do use roof and wall connections like specialized molding. I may use some of these as well.

I'd appreciate any thoughts and comments from yourself and others who have tried the FRPs. I look forward to your updates.
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:30 AM   #33
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Re: Window skinning options?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyMac
I'd appreciate any thoughts and comments from yourself and others who have tried the FRPs. I look forward to your updates.
On the current bus, I used 16ga stainless on the curb side and spent nearly $450... then when my budget and timeline changed, I had to look for something cheaper on the driver's side. I went with FRP from Lowes, bumpy side turned in and attached with self drilling, self tapping screws. It has two coats of rustoleum equipment paint sprayed on and it has survived 3 years so far with no cracking or nastiness... though it does have some mildew spots where the trees have dripped. It gets sun up until about 1PM, then is shaded for the remainder of the day. I had considered using it again on the new bus, but found a good price on aluminum trailer skin at a salvage place in St. Pete that was actually less expensive than the FRP. I wouldn't have a problem using the FRP again if needed, but I also liked the idea of lexan down the side with window gaskets for the 'transit' look. Anyway, the price on the aluminum sealed the deal.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:04 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkindt View Post
I know some have used 20ga sheet metal to fill in the windows, but what about using FRP? I ran across a sample of different FRP panels and found a nice white smooth one that looks very much like the outer skin on modern RVs. I can get a full 4x8 sheet of this stuff cheaper than sheet metal. I was thinking I could cut it to fit the window opening, attach aluminum angle to the edges so I can screw it or rivit it into place and use some urethane sealant to seal them in when I install them. Basically it would be a 'window replacement' that is flat, smooth, and very dent and warp resistant.
Please share where you can get the FRP I am very interested. Thank you
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:36 PM   #35
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For anyone who has kept their windows, any luck getting screens on outside to keep the bugs out? I have an idea of removing some of the windows and doubling them up where I want them and adding a screen on outside. I have not been able to locate RV windows to fit my budget and size of window opening.
Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-23-2015, 03:42 PM   #36
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I made screens with screen frame, corners, spline and screening. I also used the screen clips to hold the screen frame flush with the window frame. You really only have to screen in the top half of the window.
I put the screens on the inside, so they wouldn't fly off when driving. So yes, I have to loosen the screws that hold in the clips to take the screen out, to open or close the window, but works great for me.

Here is the link to the screen clips:

Prime-Line Flush Window Screen Clips (8-Pack)-L 5761 - The Home Depot
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:52 PM   #37
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FRP will not stand up to the outside environment. You need to use metal.

More that one person has made that mistake on this site, myself included.

FRP can be had at most Home depot / Rona / Lows.

Nat
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:45 PM   #38
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Do you have any pics? this sounds like a great Idea.

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Old 09-23-2015, 09:48 PM   #39
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FRP gets real saggy and wrinkled when the temperature changes. It expand and contracts at a different rate than the steel.

It was also never made to hang free without a backing behind it.

I installed it in a guys race trailer. He hated it so much we had to pull it all out and start over with diamond tread aluminum.

No pics. I was having a really bad day. I lost money on that job.

Besides, FRP is almost the same cost as 14 gauge metal. Why would you even bother? It cost the same as 18 gauge sheet steel.

Nat
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Old 09-24-2015, 01:37 AM   #40
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FRP is fine for lining showers...but not much else.
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