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Old 11-24-2016, 10:31 PM   #1
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: chicago, il
Posts: 220
Year: 2003
Chassis: IC CE
Engine: T444
Wood Burning stove ventilation help

so I just bought a Century S244 Wood Stove, it burns awesome. I think it provides good heat, i think. The reason i think it does is because i am having smoke issues. I tried double wall exhaust sadly it wouldn't work the universal 6" collar fit...but the double wall did all, also the combo of the collar and the available double wall sizes meant i couldn't vent as it was to tall. so i ended up with flexible 6in exhaust with the same issue. so i found a scrap piece and wrapped the 6in flex. I got smoke issues, so i bought a 7 in flex and placed that around the 6 in and used 200 degree steel worked until it exceeded the 200 degrees. now im getting smoke in my bus again. I do not want a permanent hole in the roof just yet as i may move the stove in the future. Oh, i plan to buy 280 degree tape and see how that does next unless a better idea comes from you guys.

Long story short, any suggestions?

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Old 11-25-2016, 06:41 AM   #2
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
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Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
you use 6" ridged black pipe coming off the stove to the point where it exits the bus. there is a collar that goes in at that point that converts it to double wall. remember the crimped part of the pipe goes down, any moister or creosote will run down into the fire box. make sure to put a cap on it to prevent down draft. good luck
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Old 11-25-2016, 11:09 AM   #3
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 553
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
consult a wood stove selling store to do it right.

Do not use stuff from a hardware store designed for cloths dryers!.
Or propane stove/heaters.

They do make a double wall stove pipe for use from the stove to the wall or ceiling. It is used in "close quarters"

A rain cap will help keep rain out and birds, etc. out.
Have not had 100% success with them keeping all downdrafts away.
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Old 11-25-2016, 10:13 PM   #4
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
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Just food for thought: wood stoves burn cleanest when the exhaust temperature is between 400-900F. All your exhaust vent pieces need to be able to handle that kind of heat.. You really do want real wood stove pipe and fittings unless you are good at fabricating.
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:17 PM   #5
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 39

1) Don't burn another fire in that stove until it is properly installed.

2) First step - read the manual that came with the stove. (You can download one if you don't have it anymore.) Pay particular attention to the sections on clearances and venting.

3) Figure out where the stove is going. Then, pick out a brand of commercially manufactured solid fuel chimney pipe. Be prepared to spend as much on the chimney as you did on the stove, and get someone who knows fireplaces to help you if you don't understand anything in THAT manual, which is specific to each brand of pipe.

4) Cut that hole in the roof. Vertical is the only way to build a proper chimney system in a vehicle.

If you aren't willing to do the above, at least go sign a durable health care power of attorney and a current will!
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Old 11-27-2016, 08:36 PM   #6
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: near Christiansburg VA
Posts: 644
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Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 44 or 66? 11 rows
Originally Posted by BlueBirdman View Post

If you aren't willing to do the above, at least go sign a durable health care power of attorney and a current will!
Not sure if I understand you. Do you feel strongly about this?

[Thanks, Blue... all of us who are in the design stages prolly ought to take your words to heart.]
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