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Old 03-18-2015, 11:11 PM   #11
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While you are at inventing a new style of stove, why not add a hopper type set up that you can activate from inside. Not a fully loaded type set-up or anything but maybe a couple chunks of coal or logs (depending on your preference) that you could use in the case of unexpected cold snap or such. You could set it up on a conveyor belt and load the wood sideways into the stove. (parallel with the bus) Then you could set up 5-6 logs/chunks and load it with a button press.


I would think the door opening timing might be a bit tricky, but that sure would be slick! If you could set it up with telescoping arms, it could fold pretty small for moving.
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Old 03-19-2015, 04:32 AM   #12
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I haul my wood in those blue IKEA bags. At the store they're $5 apiece, but I found a 10-pack on eBay for like $12. They're WAY more durable than canvas carriers, and have full sides so the mess stays in the bag. They're also waterproof (although the seams go after a couple of seasons) so it keeps melting snow off your floor. When loaded well they are also stackable. Huge fan.

Loading from the outside sounds great from a mess perspective, but I for one love being able to load it in my shorts on a cold morning or when it's snowing/sleeting out. We've dealt with the mess for so long that we're used to it, so...
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Old 03-19-2015, 08:26 AM   #13
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the only problem with that is having to go outside every time to load the wood. the stove would be small so the fire box would be small so every few hours you would be going outside to stoke it up. to big a stove and it wont burn hot enough.
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:06 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Malkieri View Post
While you are at inventing a new style of stove, why not add a hopper type set up that you can activate from inside. Not a fully loaded type set-up or anything but maybe a couple chunks of coal or logs (depending on your preference) that you could use in the case of unexpected cold snap or such. You could set it up on a conveyor belt and load the wood sideways into the stove. (parallel with the bus) Then you could set up 5-6 logs/chunks and load it with a button press.


I would think the door opening timing might be a bit tricky, but that sure would be slick! If you could set it up with telescoping arms, it could fold pretty small for moving.
Simple is better, and I dont have the space. I need the versatility to burn wood and coal of all sizes. Hand loading is the only way. Also the stove can't use electricity.

A automatic stoker boiler that uses electricity will be a much later ad on. Once I introduce electricity into the mix, there is no reason to have the stove in the living space of the bus.

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the only problem with that is having to go outside every time to load the wood. the stove would be small so the fire box would be small so every few hours you would be going outside to stoke it up. to big a stove and it wont burn hot enough.
Your understanding of wood stove sizes is inaccurate. Stove size has nothing to do with how much heat is produced. What your burning, the size of the fuel being burned, amount of intake air, how dry the fuel is, ect all play factors.

I load every 12 to 24 hours. My stove takes logs 24 inches long, up to 16 inches in diameter. Chunks of coal up to 75 pounds. Not a issue for me.


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Loading from the outside sounds great from a mess perspective, but I for one love being able to load it in my shorts on a cold morning or when it's snowing/sleeting out. We've dealt with the mess for so long that we're used to it, so...
Coal is simply to dirty to load from the inside, period.

However, My bus will be air tight, so by turning on my fresh air intake blower on the front of the bus, it will pressurize the inside. When I open the stoves interior glass door no ash or smoke will escape into the living space. This will make poking the fire in the morning to flair it up nice and convenient.

Nat
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:48 PM   #15
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if you dont burn a stove hot enough it will build up creosote in weeks so it can't be two big, too small and your constantly feeding it. thats what i know from the past 40 years of burning wood.b t w my stove takes a 31" log.
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Old 03-19-2015, 03:52 PM   #16
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if you dont burn a stove hot enough it will build up creosote in weeks so it can't be two big, too small and your constantly feeding it. thats what i know from the past 40 years of burning wood.b t w my stove takes a 31" log.
You just have to be creative, and burn dry wood.

In spring weather like now, my stoves fire grate stays half blocked by ash. This permits me to burn a hot, small fire in a large stove. Log size still stays large for a long burn time.

Burning coal with wood eliminates the creosote all together. My fires are far too hot.

I have never had a issue with creosote, ever. Even before burning coal.

That creosote is energy that your stove should have burned. The fact that your stove even makes creosote, shows your stove is doing a really poor job of burning the wood gasses. Your stove is highly inefficient.

Be more creative with your stove. By what you have said, you have not taken in the feedback your stove is giving you. Pay attention, and evolve the way you use your stove.

My shed is a really small space. I spend alot of time sitting right in front of my stove. I don't watch TV or occupy my mind with any other mindless junk. Therefore I spend alot of time thinking, and evolving the way I use and do things.
Out of pure necessity, I have leaned how to use my stove to suit my needs. Long burn time and cleaning on a weekly basis was a must. I have achieved both.

Winter is basically over now for us. I used 14 broken pallets, and 2 tons of coal all winter.
Cost, $100 for the coal, and $25 for gas in the truck to haul it to my shed.

Nat
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Old 03-19-2015, 09:08 PM   #17
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nat definitely knows a bit about stoves.

I actually, despite growing up in florida, had a wood stove as the only source of heat in the winters until my teens.
Ours was from the late 1800's.
I *may* look around for a small one to use in the bus. It is good heat.
But the selection isn't very good here so I may have to make one if I want one bad enough.
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Old 03-20-2015, 01:22 PM   #18
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We burn 12 cords of wood a year. Creosote is overrated, and there are a million misunderstandings that came out of poor communications from various sources with best intentions but bad execution. An average homeowner burning a few armloads of wood a year in a fireplace would need a decade or two to see the kinds of creosote buildup to be a problem.

Creosote is condensed, un-burned combustion compounds and is primarily caused by a combination of incomplete combustion and cool flue temperatures. It can happen with any species of wood. There are lots of ways to deal with it. Hotter flue temps (insulating the flue, using an appropriately-sized flue, etc), damping down a fire less, using stoves with secondary air supplies and catalysts, burning dry, well-seasoned wood, etc.

Example miscommunication/misunderstanding: It is not bad to burn soft wood like pine. We burn at least 2 cords of it every spring and fall during our "shoulder" season. It produces no more or less creosote than anything else - because all of our other conditions are the same. The reason they advise people to not use it is because a lot of people are too inexperienced (or frankly, other, worse words about them) to understand that softwoods tend to have a high amount of resin, which makes them burn very easily (this is why they burn hotter and faster). That makes it MUCH easier to get un-seasoned softwood to burn in the first place, and the high water content makes for a colder fire and colder flue temps - perfect for forming creosote. It is NOT the resin that causes the creosote! It is the colder flue temps and inefficient / incomplete combustion from burning wood that should have seasoned longer. People think if it lights, it's seasoned. Totally untrue.

When I was young my parents/grandparents used to run a super-hot fire for a half hour every morning. You could hear the "crackling" in the chimney. They used to call it "burning out the flue". What it was, was a controlled chimney fire burning off the flakes of creosote that had built up over a night of burning a very damped-down fire. Gasp, a chimney fire. Every day. Whatever shall we do?

Knowledge and experience are priceless commodities.

A steel school bus with a stainless flue pipe is also one of the lowest-risk environments you can have, and super easy to clean if you're at all concerned. But sure, if you ignore it and pretend it isn't going to be a problem, burn wet wood and damp the fire way down, and never clean your chimney - you're going to have a problem.

Nat's point about pressurization is a good one - we have a similar situation and never have any smoke in the house. A good flue providing a good draft on a good (sealed) stove is all you need to avoid that. If smoke is pouring into your living space, something's wrong - not unfortunate, actually WRONG, with your setup.

The bugs and wood junk, I don't know - I guess I'm so used to it I don't notice. We vacuum around the stove every few days the same way we clean the rest of the house. I guess it is a little messy at times but it's not like we're walking on a carpet of wood dust and splinters. It's just some stuff that accumulates around where we set the bags of wood down, the same as around where we put our boots when we come in from outside.

If anybody wants more information about wood burning beyond just what Nat, I, and a few others here say, go hang out on arboristsite.com. There are forums there that are incredibly active with people who cut, process, and burn wood and have been doing so for decades. There's a huge amount of great information there.
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Old 03-20-2015, 03:20 PM   #19
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Well written TankSwap.

Nat
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Old 04-06-2015, 12:19 AM   #20
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My plans.

The front of my bus will be fairly open so no problem there. The back will be somewhat closed off. I plan to run a 4 or 5 inch duct from the a register at floor level at the rear with a duct fan inside of it. It does not have to move a lot of cfm. It will terminate near the stove. When you move the coolest air from the floor level it will automatically move warm air to the rear. I have a similar setup in my house and easily heat the whole house with one wood burner. You can run the fan on a timer relay or a thermostatic switch. You could also just run it manually. It should work very well for you. Good luck.
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