1935 Chevy school bus

[ol trunt]

I put the bus in the sunshine bay this AM to help cure the grey primer. At 11:00 AM I climbed the ladder to begin the finish work on the rear pop out only to burn both forearms on the hot steel. That did it. I decided to do a brief study of temps on different parts of the bus body. I borrowed a Raytec brand digital point and read thermometer and took a few readings. All were taken at a distance of 20 inches and with the sun directly behind me. All the panels were located in the same plane relative to the sun (except those measured as a baseline in the shade). Multiple measurements were made at each location--although the temp readings never varied more than a degree one way or the other. The locations I measured included the new rear pop out, the steel portion of the original pop up. the polycal plastic portion of the pop up and the original body of the bus. This is what I found:

Original blue body;

outside shade 77 degrees
inside shade 77 degrees (no insulation, full open air flow)

New rear pop out;

outside sun 112 degrees (ouch)
inside/1" R-
Tech Insul
Foam 88 degrees

White steel pop up;

outside sun 88 degrees
inside sun 88 degrees

white polygal plastic;

outside sun 85 degrees
inside sun 83 degrees


Just for fun I measured the roof temp of my buddies great looking flat black rat rod----158 degrees! Guess I won't be using that color

Sorry about the chart format--I tried several times to get a regular table to print but despite what I asked to be done the only thing that would print is what you see Oh well.

I can't help but wonder what glass spheres would add--anyone want to donate some? Ha!

[Tango]

Hey Jack --- the paint additive from Hy-Tech is pretty remarkable stuff. Would love to see a test using your sensor. The only test I ran (which convinced me to buy some) was to put my hand on the inside of a galvanized tin roof in August here in Houston. It was a good solid 100 degrees outside but the inside of that roof, which had a single brushed & rolled coat of cheap latex with the beads added was almost cool to the touch. Felt like maybe 76 degrees? I am definitely using it not only on my roof, but on the inside of the hood,firewall and outer panels as well before I close them in.

[roach711]

Great job on the bathroom roof bump-out. Two questions - How will you weather seal the edges of the new sheet metal? and how far is the bathroom unit sunk into the floor?

Inquiring minds want to know!!

[ol trunt]

Hey Roach, Once I finished welding the various edges I just used "Kitty Hair" stuffed into the crack and then a layer of Bondo over that to smooth things out. Since the bump out and the bus roof are very ridgid and welded together I don't expect enough movement to crack the filler but I'll keep an eye on it.

I dropped the bathroom floor 7" which is a standard stair case step rise. I tried it out and decided that even if I missed the step I still wouldn't fall---there isin't enough room

[ol trunt]

Hey All, I finished up the body work on the rear pop out and got it into primer. I won't do more on it until I'm ready to do the paint job.

I hauled the generator lump to the bus (150 # seems like a lot when you lift it into the bed of a PU--I'll be paying for that Ha!) I cleaned up the hole I had cut in the floor and removed some of the covers on the genny as well as its gas tank. Next I set the genny on a floor jack and raised it into the hole in the floor. Once I got the genny about where I wanted it I suspended it by its handles and removed the jack. Now I'll study where the air flow goes when its running and start to design an enclosure.

The genny is one of the quiet ones but I hope to make it even more quiet. Based on what I've seen on u-tube that may or may not be possible Anyway, it will be fun trying. I plan to measure the noise output as I go along---we'll see what happens.

[b] Genny on the jack[b/]

[b] Top view of genny (without gas tank)[b/]

[Tango]

Lookin' Good Still! --- I'm hanging my Gennie on my extended rear bumper. Ran out of space underneath, but I have the same issue. Where to direct the exhaust so's I don't die in my sleep! Will have to open it up and see if I can add a little to the exhaust without compromising the quiet. Hoping to run it up a stack or beyond the rear bumper. Keep the pix coming...I love watching you work and stealing ideas! But...please take note that I learned long ago to only steal great ideas.

[chev49]

if ya want the genset to run a long time ya just have remote gas tank w/ fuel pump..
low pressure
type
i would have gen set as far away from bed as possible..
but on a short bus that aint being too far...

[ol trunt]

NBY, That is a good idea and it would work way more easily than what I have planned. Part of my project design calls for an onboard "silent" generator so quiet that you would never notice it. I spent many enjoyable hours learning about noise and noise control and I'd like to give what I learned a try ---of course I hedged my bet by getting one of the super quiet gennys as a start. I expect that it will be a couple of weeks before I have any noise measurements but when I do I'll share them- good, bad or indifferent. Thanks for the suggestion. Jack

[ol trunt]

Slow work takes time and man has this been slow! Last pics posted were of my genny being located in the cut out in the RH floor of my bus. Since that time I have built a storage bin with a slide out box which will contain the genny. I framed both items with angle iron and skinned them with 22 gauge steel plate. I found two pairs of heavy duty double extend drawer slides at the Re-Store for $1 each. I would have liked to have found four alike as the seemingly minor differences cost me a days work making adjustments etc. The first style was easily taken apart to allow for fabrication but the second style spit out all its bb s when it came apart and was a royal pita to re assemble. I needed a "trial run" with the assembly but didn't want to risk dropping the genny so with 20bus/steering%20column%20and%20brakes/155_zps5873d9c1.jpg[/img][b/]

[Tango]

Sweet Jack! --- and the springs should really isolate any vibes. Good thinking. Mine will just have to sit on the "back porch" but I may well steal the spring idea from ya. Only question being...where the hell do you find a "Pinto" these days!? I thought they had all exploded long ago.

[roach711]

Beautiful work! I've got to get myself a welder (and a metal brake and a shear and a ton of scrap to go with my lumber pile.....). The valve springs are a great idea.

[ol trunt]

Tango and Roach---thanks. Tango, like you I thought all the Pintos were gone but like a lot of other ya gotta wonders, Pinto has an active following anong the short dirt track oval racers. All I can think of that would encourage me to drive a Pinto in a race is that extra little bit of adrenaline you need to win-- and being blown up might just supply that edge

Just so you know that I'm not BS'n you I took a few pics of friend Gary's Pinto racers---and a cylinder head.

Today I finished welding the box to the sub body and designed and built the basic cooling air system for the genny. Now I need to figure out how to silence the squirrel cage fan (2050 RPM continuous with a 5"dianeter). I think once I can make and adjust dampers the fan should be near silent--wouldn't want fan noise bothering any of my spoilled silly neighboring campers! Jack

[b][b/]

[b][b/]

[b][b/]

[keith]

i want to know where u got the tracks from and what are the wight cap on them,been look for some,,,,

[ol trunt]

Keith, I'm not going to be able to give you much info as I bought the slides at the Restore. Basically if the slides are quite heavy and don't twist and are double slides you are probably going to be OK. I used 4 slides on my drawer and I know that they will hold my weight when they are fully extended and the weight is evenly spread. My slides are about 2" tall, 1/2" thick and 16" long when closed. They are ball bearing. Whatever slides you do use be sure that they can't flex or roll laterally or they are likely to twist apart even if they are quite heavy. Hope this helps.

[roach711]

Originally Posted by keith

i want to know where u got the tracks from and what are the wight cap on them,been look for some,,,,

Most woodworking stores carry drawer slides. If you're going to use them in an exposed spot look for slides built out of stainless steel. Here's one site:

http://www.drawerslides.com/m/Accuride

[Tango]

LOL ---I guess if yer gonna race a Pinto, you'd better be good enough to maintain a healthy lead...or move the gas tank way up front somewhere.

And I have to ask (since I'm pondering the issue myself)...how are you dealing with exhaust fumes? I am looking at how best to route them away from the bus but the factory muffler system makes mods tricky. Might try to route something out past the rear bumper on mine if I can figure out how to hook it up.

[ol trunt]

Tango, while I am happy to have the genny on the right side of the bus it does pose a problem for getting rid of the exhaust as the openable windows and pop top are on the right as well. I'll be playing with the exhaust today and I'll let you know what transpires. Jack

[Tango]

Hey Jack --- Speaking of Honda Gen Sets...Been lookin' all over for a drawing of the Honda innerds to work out an exhaust extension but nada so far. Guess I'll just have to tear into it blind. Saw an add on "vent system" made for them on Ebay and while not what I'm looking for, it might work on your slide out set up. It is a screw on hood arrangement with some 4" flex like a dryer vent that can be routed outdoors. Also considering adding a 12v cooling fan since I'm planning on boxing it in somewhat. They need a lot of cool fresh air to stay happy. While searching, I did come across a remote starter that could be handy. Would be nice not to have to go out in the rain to crank it up. Finally...adding an extended run tank appears to require a pump for the 3000 series unless you put it up higher than the built in tank. It is gravity fed while the smaller 1000/2000 series have a built in fuel pump and only need a cap with a hose to the tank. You might know I'd go with the more complicated unit.

[ol trunt]

Hey Tango, I went through the same search for an exploded view of my Yamaha 3K i and found nothing. I even contacted the mfg and found them unwilling to teach me anything--go figure. I sort of got the last laugh though when I went to a local old school small engine and electrical supply and repair store. They just happened to have a burned up Yamaha 3K i (guy ran it with no oil) and they let me pull it apart. Too cool, I was able to get measurements of the cooling fan etc which let me calculate appx cooling air requirements so I could chose a fan setup. BTW, the air passes over the main computer on the way to the cooling fan and then is directed through a cast Al housing that surrounds the cyl. There is a slight amount of air directed to the armature which vents out the bottom of the case (about one square inch opening and low air flow). The majority of the cooling air continues through the tube and flows over all sides of the muffler before venting to the surrounding air. The actual exhaust leaves the muffler through a 1/2" tube and is mixed with the cooling air as it leaves the genny.

There is no other air circulation within the genny and the whole thing is bound up in a foam rubber filled Al case so there isn't much cooling going on there. While chatting with a neighbor lamenting the fact that I didn't have an anemometer he said "I've got one--I bought it at an auction---what is it?" And so he did. With that tool I was able to confirm my air flow calcs and test a couple of 12 V fans--that's how I ended up with the squirrel cage fan I am using.

The Yamaha like the Honda has a gravity feed fuel system so I will also need a low pressure pump from my remote tank--unless I find a great bargan on a propane conversion.

It looks like I'll run the actual exhaust across the frame to vent on the left side of the bus while the genny cooling air will vent under the bus in fromt of the RR tire, that's tomorrows project--we'll see. Jack

[Tango]

Wish I'd been there lookin' over your shoulder. Guess Honda doesn't want us non-technicians poking around inside. Since I'll be hanging mine on the rear deck (aka;...bumper)...I'll need to protect it from rain & such (as well as thieves). Considering a metal box that opens out on several sides for breathing but will keep water off. And like you (once again) a squirrel cage seems the best bet for extra cooling. The move a lot of air. Hoping to find a 12v somewhere since I won't be using much of that circuit on the genny. And the trick on the fuel pump appears to be some kind of limiting or sensing switch so it doesn't overfill the main tank. I'd like to hang another 10-15 gallons under the deck for extended dry camping. Looked into the propane conversions but had a couple of folks who'd gone that route say that it ate way too much fuel too fast compared to gasoline (fewer BTU's I guess). Have to admit though, limiting my load to two fuels instead of three would be nice.

Have a great weekend.