1935 Chevy school bus

[ol trunt]

Tango, P.S. Go to "the remember song" on everything else I can't remember why Jack

[Redbear]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

Hello All, I spent so much time looking up the spelling of "chamfer" that I timed out and had to start over!!!!! I hate that!!!!

My log-ins have timed out a few times while I try to prepare or neaten up a long post. I find if I occasionally hit "Preview," even if I'm not ready to look the post over, it seems to drop another quarter in the parking meter . . . . .

[lars larsen]

Wow doesn't even come close to describing my thoughts on your bus! You are doing an outstanding job. I happened to pick up a 46 Chevy Superior last summer for some parts. The body was way to rusty to even imagine resurrecting again, so I got any usable parts off and sent the rest to China. One item I did score was the back bumper that has the Superior stamped into it. Don't know if you have one or even if you are interested, but it would be for sale.

[ol trunt]

Lars,thanks for thinking of it. I would most certaintly be interested in your bumper. Could you post a couple of pics and some rough measurements please. Thanks, Jack

[Shadoll]

Jack, you are talented in so many ways. I again am so jealous that you can weld and am watching every step of your posts.

[ol trunt]

Shadoll, I love melting metal together--its like playing with the sun.. Watch Craigs List for a mig welder (probably not less than 125 amps), get the seller to show you it works and start practicing! Guess you'll have to get your electricity problem solved first but still no big deal

[skoolz out]

The design is amazing and way more complicated than I would even think of trying to build, yet I am sure it will work. That said, I am curious about the motor taking up part of the step well. Any reason why you didn't notch the rear portion of the well to recess the motor out of the way? Longer J shaped arms would of course be needed to make that work, and maybe that won't fit. Just wanted to know.

[lars larsen]

Hey Jack, Here is the only pic I have of the bumper as of now. I'll get some more this w/e and measurements too.

[ol trunt]

Lars, thanks for the pic. The '46 body still closely resembles the '35 body. I appreciate your offer to take some more pics and make a few measurements--that will give me a better idea of how your bumper would fit on my bus. Thanks again, Jack

[Tango]

Hey Lars --- Much cooler bumper on yours. And chrome no less! Is yours a three piece unit or one continuous piece (mine is 3).

[lars larsen]

Sorry for the confusion Tango. That's the superior bus I parted out. This bumper has the superior name stamped into the center. Mine is the same 3 piece you have. I'm probably going to come up with something else also.

[Tango]

Hey Lars --- Either way, a great looking bumper for a skoolie! And should look super on Jack's tricked out bus.

I am definitely doing a makeover on my rear. Once I have the back deck worked out, the plan is to cut up another front bumper I picked up on Ebay and build it into a new unit. Will need to add around two feet to the center since the fronts are so much narrower than the backs of these things but it shouldn't be too big a deal. Thinking about putting a drop down step in the middle.

[ol trunt]

Tango, Lars, Our threads have become like puppies in a basket--all tangled up With three of these old girls comming down the road we should make quite a parade!

I offered to help my buddy Jeff Gean whose tow yard I have been using do an exterior rehab on his very low mileage Bounder RV. It will probably take another couple of weeks by the time we get it painted and the new graphics installed. Sort of fun to work on something with solid flat walls and no RUST--besides, Jeff knows everything about vehicles so it is fun to toss ideas back and forth. I've tried to point him towards a Skoolie but he just rolls his eyes. All that was to explain why I won't be posting much about my bus for a while. That's not to say that I won't continue to stir the pot here on Skoolie! Jack

[Tango]

Hey Jack --- That's no excuse! let's see some pix of the stick & staple job!

[ol trunt]

Tango, point taken but if I get yelled at for the sticks and stapels pics I'm pointing to you

[Tango]

Jack... --- I only ask because given your history of clever innovation, we fully expect to see something like hydraulic swing out walls and a laser water heater.

[ol trunt]

Ah Tango, you remember that oath we took swearing never to give up that lazer thingy and especially never to use it on a S&S J

[lars larsen]

Here are some bumper pics for you Jack. The chrome is pitted and scratched, but bumper is straight and could be painted or rechromed. It is in three pieces, so shipping might not be too bad. I'll email you some more pics and measurements. Lars

[Tango]

Dang!!! --- Almost makes me wish I had a Superior! That is about the finest vintage skoolie bumper ever!

[ol trunt]

Lars, for some reason I could not get your e-mail address to work so here is an e-mail address that will reach me. Thanks Jack

Tango you ol troublemaker Here are a few pics of the S&S I'm helping with. Being a sly old dog myself, I worked the whole thing around a way to remove that nasty reflective tape from a school bus:

1) Tools; 3-4" not too sharp scraper, heat gun, spray can of Goof Off, a can of lacquer thinner and lots of throw away rags.

2) Procedure; Heat an edge of the tape and back from the edge for about 4" The tape should not be heated enough to cause blistering (of the tape) but must be way too hot to touch. While maintaing the heat, slip the edge of the scraper under the tape and coax up a tab of tape large enough to pull with your fingers. Start pulling the tape off while continuing to heat the tape on the body. When the pull rate and the temperature of the tape are just right the tape will pull off taking its glue with it. If the tape starts to stretch, reduce the heat. If the tape keeps breaking or leaving the glue behind increase the heat. Avoid digging the scraper into the paint.

When the tape has been removed, spray the area with Goof Off and use the scraper to remove any remaining glue. Assuming the paint under the tape is seasoned, lacquer thinner may be used for final clean up. If you use either Goof Off or lacquer thinner it is best to do a test panel where it won't matter if either solvent damages the test area.

Notes: Read the safety warnings on both solvents and remember that improper use of a heat gun can start a fire.

Have fun and good luck



[b] Tools, solvents and old tape. [b/]

[b] If you plan on doing an automotive quality paint job on your bus, you will find that the tape will have protected the original paint while the un protected area will have worn away. This leaves an edge that doesn't lend itself to plain sanding. Prime only the worn areas and then sand the primer using a cross hatch pattern (using 320 grit non filling dry sand paper and a hard rubber sanding block) until you begin to see blotches of the original color showing through. Usually takes two applications. [b/]

[b] At the top of the primered area you can see where the edge of the tape used to be. If you put a finish coat over this area it will look like you painted over the old tape--the area needs more work.[b/]