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Old 10-19-2012, 10:18 PM   #261
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Looking great my friend
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:17 PM   #262
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

I'd definitely call it "progress". Nice as always Jack. 8.5 gallons should make for quite a bit of run time on your genny.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:35 PM   #263
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Rainy California weather? How your life must suck. Michigan weather shuts me down 4 months of the year.

Beautiful scenery out there and great climate - too bad it's in The People's Republic of California.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:20 PM   #264
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
Hello all, I've little to show for a lot of time spent this past couple of weeks. I think I have finally settled on a way to exhaust the hot air from the genny box that includes a puller tube axiel fan in the outlet ducting. That ducting will final vent through the space heater exhaust vent and seems to waste the least amount of space--all I have to do is build it.

I have laid out a rough in of the cuts for the slide out but have not cut yet because I realized that I will soon need to get the bus into its permanent dry workshop as the rainy (in Calif?) weather about to come will interfere with interior build out. To do that I need to lower the bus a half inch so that it will clear my garage door without having to let the air out of the tires each time I move it in and out. Hopefully I will have that completed tomorrow.

I also got an aluminum gas tank built for the genny. I took a couple of Al boxes I took off an old Jeep to a welder buddy with the intent of having them welded together etc. ( I don't have the right welder} and when I went to pick it up I was told that he had decided to keep the boxes for his old Toyota FJ Landcruser and build a complete new tank for me and would $40 be OK! Check the pic and see what you think!

I try to make a weekly treck to the local Restore and today I found a RV propane tank (still has fuel in it so probably is OK) for $15. It is 12" in diam, and 31" long (the formula for volume is the radius squarred times pie times height devided by 231.---) Anyway this works out to be about 15 gallons which I will add to my present 10 gal tank. That should keep me in the boonies for quit a while.

{b} New fuel tank is about 8.5 gal rather than the 3 gal the genny came with. The tank fits inbetween two body outriggers and uses otherwise lost space.[b/]

[b] A pic of the additional propane tank.[img]
http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w43 ... es/166.jpg[/img][b/]

Like most of us I suppose, I have no good reason (excuse) for having gotten so little done other than to say "slow work takes time! HA!) Jack
FORTY BUCKS! Man, you got ripped off. Just kidding. Around here, if I went to someone to build an aluminum tank, it probably would have been at least $400. You scored.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:41 PM   #265
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hey Roach, Yea it's tough living here--good scenery, great weather.but why is it again that folks like me have to support the majority of our neighbors I still don't get that.

I worked all day today trying to lower the back end of my bus. I removed the springs and took out a long leaf as suggested by the dealer and my net gain (or is it loss?) was exactly the thickness of the leaf I removed--not enough. If I can get out of bed tomorrow I'll take the springs out again and pull the two 6 inch long leaves that are right on the axle. These leaves don't compress as the top of the axle it nearly 7 inches across where the two meet up. The leaves are made of spring material but seem to function more like spacers in this particular installation. At least I now know exactly which wrench works where and that will really speed things up on my next try. The Isuzu frame I'm using had been set up to carry a water tank so it has the heaviest springs available for the NPR model--OH WELL. Jack
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:03 AM   #266
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hey Jack --- I'm going to be facing the same issue soon. Need to pull a couple of leaves off the rear and while mine was never a tanker, they put a spring load on that sucker that must outweigh the engine & tranny combined. Not at all looking forward to it. Also need to level the front springs somehow as one side is about 3/4's of an inch higher than the other. In the process discovered that there is no longer anyone in the area that still re-arches springs. Like so many other things these days, all anyone knows how to do anymore is bolt on Chinese replacement parts. And there ain't no such for this old gal. Good luck with it and be careful, you must be dealing with a heck of a lot of weight. (Got Forklift?)
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:51 PM   #267
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hey Tango and all, Tango, I guess you still hold the record at 4 hours cut time on your door but I tried to top it today spending 3 1/2 hours removing and saving a rusted spring eye bolt. For some reason the brain surgeons at Isuzu were willing to use cad coated bolts in the rear spring hangers but determined that phosphate coated bolts were good enough for the stationary eye bolt which probably didn't make it to delivery before they were rusted. I had visions of hacksaws and hydrolic presses etc but persisted until the bolt came out. I have had similar experiences with unibody cars where the only way to take the springs out was to cut them out (Morris Minor Traveller anyone?)--a real PITA!

The good news is that by virtue of having removed an inch and a half of leaves from the superduty spring pac I should now be able to drive the bus into my home garage--who needs eleven leaves anyway I ran out of daylight before I could take actual height measurements but my eye says the bus looks a whole lot more near level than it did. Even with the leaves missing I see no difference in the distance the spring must travel before the overload springs kick in. Of course the overall travel will be less by least the thickness of the springs I removed--still plenty of travel.

[b]Original spring pac less overloads[b/]

[b]No change in stroke before the overloads kick in[b/]

Tango, Because of the extension I put on the rear of the frame I was afraid to lift the bus with a fork lift--too long a lever arm. Instead I jacked up one side at a time until the spring was fallow and set the frame fore and aft of the hangers on jack stands (4X6's would work just fine all things considered). This procedure allowed me to R&R the spring without removing the rear wheels--safer I think. My heart flipped a little when I saw the stretch I was applying to the brake lines and the ABS wires but I caught it in time. I'll have no trouble going to sleep tonight I think. Jack
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Old 10-22-2012, 11:35 AM   #268
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Jack --- quite a chore there. The fork lift reference was regarding lifting just the spring set. It must weigh at least a couple of hundred pounds and been a real bear to wrestle outta' there. Mine is also eleven leaves but not consistent with what is shown in the factory book. The manual shows a distinctive overload arrangement but mine are all concentric. Sometimes I think they just made it all up as they went. Especially with skoolies. Either way, I need to drop my rear almost three inches to be anywhere near level but I'm thinking I'd better wait until it's built out and has a full load of water & fuel since they are both of significant volume on my rig.

Also re-thinking my genny arrangement. Really like what you did with yours and would love to keep my "back porch" as open as possible, so I just may "borrow" your slide out concept. Can't fit it anywhere except behind the rear wheels so I need to run some numbers. I don't want to compromise the excellent ground clearance I have now, but I also can't spare much interior space either.

I know, I know...you're all thinking "ya shoulda' bought a 40-footer", but that would'a made things way too easy.

Onward!
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:57 PM   #269
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hello All, I made a little more progress on the bus this week. I had decided that the genny box needed a fan on the hot air exit vent because temps in the box, while within specs, were higher than I wanted--no room for that extra hot day or extra heavy load. Initially I thought I'd use a tube-axiel fan like those used to vent the bilge on boats. I looked at a couple of them and while the price was low so was the quality. Genuine %100 plastic with an ability to blow air just about hard enough to put out a birthday cake candle.

I eventually ended up using a spare Lucas (home before dark) heater motor from my Morris Minor Toad and an aluminum fan from a defunct bathroom vent. I threaded the two and added a set screw, butchered out a 3 legged mounting bracket and now have a heavy duty
Once I cut the hole in the side of the bus, the rest of the heater/genny vent slides in from the outside and looks like any other heater vent. Jack
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:46 AM   #270
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Slick Trick Jack! --- Really like combining the ducts. Some exhaust wrap might help keep the tin from radiating too much heat and it's not at all bulky. Just a thought.

After looking over some schematics of my Honda genny, I'm thinking I may extend the exhaust pipe and deal with the airflow separately. If I can fit it behind the wheel at all (taking some measures this weekend), it will be a different arrangement than yours. Fully separated from the cabin but more open underneath. The slide will be mostly for maintenance access. Still trying to figure out a simple way that the exhaust pipe can be arranged. The fuel and electrical easily accommodate the slide motion but the exhaust is another story. Anyone know where I can find a two-inch quick-disconnect for exhaust?
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