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Old 11-05-2012, 10:39 PM   #291
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

The black & copper combo is what you'll find on most of the high-dollar rigs and works great. That said, I've been eyeing some marine grade flexible tubing. A bit pricey but hey...it's a short bus, I don't need much. Here is one brand...

http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/lpg_hose_fitting.htm

USCG approved for harsh, salty, high vibration environment. Won't rust and is not subject to stress fracturing. Also very easy to install.
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Old 11-05-2012, 10:46 PM   #292
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Tango, Purdy stuff but it looks like it is for the newer type fittings. I plan to go with the old school fittings since it is still OK to refill the old tanks as long as they are mounted permanently on the MH. Jack
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:25 PM   #293
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Understood --- go with what works for ya'.
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Old 11-11-2012, 12:03 AM   #294
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hello All, During the week I have been working on the mechanism that will secuerly hold the pop up in place and form a water proof seal against the bus roof. Low tec though it is, I'll use three 1/2" bolts welded to the pop up which will upon closing enter the inside of the bus and be fastened with large wing nuts. This made sense until I realized that the closing pop up didn't feed the bolts through the holes in the roof in a straight line but rather in an arc (because the roof is rounded rather than flat). This was made worse by the fact that the bolts had to extend through the inner roof as well. The solution turned out to be oval holes rather than round ones and MANY trial fits.

During the trials I suddenly I began having trouble with the syncronization of the two linear actuators which lift and lower the top. Both actuators must do the same thing at the same time or the pop up doesn't work. The long and the short of it is that I had continued to use the "mock up" wiring I had used just to see if things would work at all (wires twisted together by hand and held in place with masking tape etc.) and eventually these lame connections resulted in intermitant high resistance shorts. Sometimes an actuater would work just fine and then suddenly not go up--or down. These events required the re-syncronization of the pair of actuators only to have the problem shift to the other actuator over and over again while I cursed the damn Chinese for their sh---- products. Once I finally figured out that it was my own s---- workmanship that was causing the problem and made proper electrical connections, everything seems to be working fine.

On the topic of electrical connections, if you use crimp connectors as I often do be sure that when you do the crimp to position the point of the crimping tool on the opposite side of the split in the connector. This will provide the best crimp and will keep the split from opening (and releasing the wire) as you crush the crimp.

I had a couple of other random thoughts but after 10 hours on the pistol range with 38 newbie shooters --no deaths or injuries other than the normal slide lock bites --I think I'll call it a day. Jack
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:55 AM   #295
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hey Jack --- I'm guessing that by now you too may have noticed that somehow it is the "little stuff" that eats up the most time. I'm headed over to my shop here in a bit to take on a couple of "little" projects myself. Don't figure on hearing from again me until after 2am.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:56 PM   #296
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hello All. I'll warn you ahead of time that this will be a pretty mundane report being made even more mundane by virtue of its author having caught a cold (I'm sure I got it from my favorite clerk at Mc Donalds who makes me a SPECIAL cup of coffee each morning and who was sneezing all over me the other day. All is forgiven though because when she was asked by another server why I got the special service she said, and I quote,"Because he's sexy". Made my day!) Oh well, that's the best I can do to spice things up--being sick and all

Now that the pop up seems to be working properly it is time to work on the inner roof panels to the left and right of the pop up. The right side (passenger) will support cupboards and the range hood along with lighting. The left side (drivers) will only have to support itself and the insulation and a light or two. Fortunately, the right side panels while rusty seem to be plenty stout and other than rust treatment and paint should not need further work. Not so for the drivers side.It is badly rusted through from leaks in the center of the roof and will have to have sections replaced.

Originally the L & R panels were one continuous sheet down each side. They sort of half unbolted and half fell off when I removed them and it was soon clear that the only way I could put them back in (by myself) was to cut them into 3 sections each. Once they are carpeted the seams won't show and should I need to get into the insulated area, the panels will make that job easier.

I also completed cutting down the range hood and shaping it to the contours of the inner roof. Happily I won't have to have the vent showing as the hood will vent through the "eyebrows" that are part of the side windows. I still have to build the connection from hood to eyebrow but at least I won't have to have a nasty looking vent sticking out of the roof of the bus or have cooking fumes blown back in my face as so many sticks and stapels do!

[b]Inner roof panels, see the rust through on the left?[b/]

[b]Once the panels were removed the rust was even more apparent.[b/]

[b]Inside pic of the rusr that needed to be cut out and replaced[b/]

[b]This pic shows the repaired "rain gutter" built into the roof--75 years of rain proved to be too much for it. It is the white below the stainless trim with the bolts.[b/]

[b]These are the patch panels which will be welded into the inner roof panels[b[b]The eyebrow just to the left of the blue "T" shirt is where the range hood will vent, Eh?[b/]
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:55 AM   #297
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

. Yes
Will there be enuf room for the material to squeeze into w/o having anything protrude down from ceiling?
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:43 AM   #298
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hey Bansil, the range hood will extend out over the stove like normal. There just will be no vents showing on the outside. Did I answer your question? Jack
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:10 AM   #299
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
Hey Bansil, the range hood will extend out over the stove like normal. There just will be no vents showing on the outside. Did I answer your question? Jack
Nope
ment the top "tent" material
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:29 PM   #300
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Re: 1935 Chevy school bus

Hey Bansil--got you. The answer is yes and no. The material will fold to the inside when the pop up is closed and it will have to be held out of the way mechanically. As to walking clearance with the top closed it should be the same as if I had'nt done the pop up--about 5' 7" which is fine for wifey but NSG for 6' me.
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