I have two techniques I use to help me remember what stuff is. The first is to leave the parts all over the shop floor so that I'll be reminded of them every time I stumble over them. The second (my favorite) is to force fit any part I no longer recognize thereby not having to admit that I no longer can remember anything
The range hood came fron a S&S 5 th wheel I tore apart a couple of years ago.
In an effort to keep my bus all Chevy (I cant remember why anymore) I chose the Chevy W3500 COE as the donner for the frame and drive line. Truth be told the W3500 is just a rebadged Isuzu NPR (so much for all Chevy, Ha) It is a 5.2 l 4 cyl turbo/intercooled diesel with a 4 speed OD automatic. The rig is drivable at this point although it doesn't have any front sheet metal. Sure is fun to hear it rattle to life!
Rather than do a new post I decided to edit this one and add the day's activity.
Some time last year a Skoolie posed a question about removing the inner rear wheel wells. He posted pics of the cut out wells and from those pics recieved many words of caution because the top of the tires were flush with the floor. I can't remember who it was but I do remember that he covered over the openings (flat) anyway. I never heard any more about it so either it worked or his rear axle is wound up in the floor and he hasn't been able to drive home--anyone else have an update on this?
Not to be out done (and from the do as I say not as I do file), I hacked the rear wheel wells out of my SKOOLIE today. I measured the maximum upward axle travel (2 3/4"). I also measured the maximim travel of a fully extended shock and the height of the outer tandem tire and used these to make a mock-up of the rear axle. I raised one side of the mock-up to simulate full compression of the spring and lowered the other side to simulate the full downward travel of the shock on the other side. The only time I can see this happening in real life would be if I drove up a steep drive aprin at an angle--like driving in to buy fuel. Under these extreme conditions the maximum rise of the outer rear tandem was only 3".
With that information to consider, I made my cuts to provide 4" of clearance for the outer tire. I've yet to weld things up and would like your comments before I do.
If all this works out it provides me with a location for two 40 gal water tanks inside the bus--I seem to have used up all the under bus space.
[b] Here is the cut I made. I plan to weld in a flat cover and the vertical portion from the original well to support the exterior fender.