1935 Chevy school bus

[atcc77]

Hey Trunt,
I had another thought on the top, hope you don't mind. This one would work a bit better and is somewhat simpler than the other one. The problem of the smaller front and rear panels is also solved. I hope you can understand my drawings, sorry for the terrible artwork.
[img][/img]

So what do you think?

[want2camp]

Do the sides of the trolley top have to be hard walls? Could you do canvas sides like those pop-up truck campers? Any boat cover maker should be able to sew them up.

[ol trunt]

I found my camera--now you are in for it!

[atcc77]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

The only part I wasn"t clear on was the wheels

The panels should be hinged on the bottom inside edge. The wheels roll in a track on the center panel frame raising and lowering the roof as the panels are raised or lowered. Think of a sliding van door, or a drawer slide, the track would have to be a C shape (what I see is cutting one side off some square tube to make the tracks, the weld them to a square tube frame) . The panels would tuck into the center panel (displacing some insulation most likely- so you would definitely want to use some type of thermo paint to avoid two hot spots in the roof) sandwiched between the existing roof line and the new movable top. As far as making it move up and down, your linear actuators could work, one on each corner to avoid any torsion of the end panels. maybe could use some of the emergency escape window locks to lock the side panels in place.

Hopefully this cleared the confusion up. I'm not used to drawing things so that other people can understand them. If need be, I can mock something up for you as I can build it better than I can draw it. Haven't been able to do much on my bus due to family obligations and nice balmy 150 degree heat.

[atcc77]

Still stuck on this top... think that it would look fantastic if the wall panels are made of wood ( epi specifically- ironwood from central america, has the same fire rating as steel, it has a grain pattern similar to teak but is much darker, also will not even think about rotting for at least 75 years) and trimmed with chrome or stainless. What can I say, I'm a wood guy

[bus-bro]

For some reason, I think ol trunt will use sheet metal.

[Tango]

Hey Trunt --- that is one serious "shop press" you have there Dude! Not to mention quite a collection of dies. Makes my side panels look like a cakewalk since they were flat with just a double fold along the bottom. I didn't realize until now that yours had the stiffening rib stamped directly into the metal. Most are a separate element just screwed onto the surface. Apparently a shortcut they didn't apply until a few years later.

And I have to ask...is the body on yours riveted or screwed together? It wasn't until I started pulling my panels that I realized it was all put together with big sheetmetal screws that had the Phillips heads filled in solid with paint.

[ol trunt]

Hey Tango, I was lucky to find an old school metal fabrication outfit with a sense of humor. They were willing to try my home made dies and seemed as pleased with the results as I was. By the way, I was just kidding about my wife's response to your chainsaw suggestion--it was my head she was going to pound on HA.

I have worked on getting the garage door assembly lifted as far as is possible without a chainsaw but still lack 1" of clearance--I'll post the pics of that attempt tonight along with some dealing with the rear springs on the bus.

I think Allen's second take on the trolley top is getting close to what I'd like to see--I wonder if one can buy welding rod for "ironwood"?

[ol trunt]

Tango, I neglected to mention that my bus was assembled with 1/4" rrrrrrrivits everywhere--except where they forgot to do them and used slot head 1/4 twenties with square nuts and rust instead. Haven't found a sheetmetal screw yet--probably because they haden't been invented yet

[Tango]

Hey Trunt --- Heck, I figure for anyone as qualified as you to raise the roof on a bus, a garage roof oughta be easy! Congratulations and I'm amazed & jealous you can still find an "old school" shop out there or anywhere anymore. Most places these days can't do squat beyond what the factory computer program is limited to...and they don't have a clue what that is or how it does it. Just which color button they're supposed to push.

And if the garage roof won't move...you can always chop & channel that beast. Hey, yer in Kalifornia...rod on!

[ol trunt]

Tango,

[Tango]

Well heck fire, you never mentioned the garage was brick!...a regular ol' chain saw obviously won't do. You need one of these puppies...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ICS-633GC-co...item231f4fab9c

Meanwhile, back at the ranch...
You can always lower the bus but install air lift bags so it can go from Low-Rider to High-Boy at the touch of a button. But please...no hopping.

..

[atcc77]

This is quite the headscratcher you have there .

Out of curiousity, is it feasible to replace the garage door with a two piece door that is hinged on the sides? It looks like you could do away with that 2x6 below the flitch plate, as well as the spring and track and door opener. Of course you would have to replace the 2x6 with something 1 1/2" thick to act as door stop and drill a 5/8" hole in your slab for a bolt, but it looks like you could gain at least 5 1/2". The down side would be that you would lose a couple of inches on the width of the opening.

Please tell your wife its only a suggestion, I don't really want to whistle through my zipper, got enough noise coming out of the stink whistle as it is

[ol trunt]

Allen, Tango--Wifey says all is forgiven no worries! Prior to the altitude attack on the garage door I had designed a single swing out door using the existing roll up sections bolted to a steel frame. Since there is no width to spare the new door would have required a parabolic hinge set up so that it would open and then get out of its own way. After pricing the materials I took one last measurement of the height of the bus and conned myself into thinking the door lift would work (after all whats an inch here or there?). Maybe I should do what we used to do as kids to lower our cars--cook the springs with a rosebud!?!

[atcc77]

Hey Trunt, just sent you a pm

[chev49]

On cars, normally i cut the coils instead of torching them, but just buying the right height and spring rate is best now days, and i dont heat the leaf ends anymore...

on your bus, i would imagine removing those leafs would work, but u got overloads looks like..
plating and bags are inexpensive today, and the bags life is really long now, so i would just do that with good bumpers... along with a bit of spring work. would just be another day of work...

[Tango]

I have to second the air bag idea. Not only could it help fit the existing garage, but think how cool it would be to have the bus kneel down for loading passengers like the new city buses do. Might come in handy during your "Golden" years as well (LOL)!

[ol trunt]

Ah, to bag or not to bag----that is the question. I get the up and down aspect of the bags but I would still think it necesary to have springs if bags are anything like hydrolics. what set up is used on the high dollar rich guys busses? Not that I'd do it but wouldn't it freak out the rest of the traffic to see a SKOOLIE jump!

[Tango]

Hey Trunt --- most of the mega-dollar coaches don't even have "springs"...just the air systems. And as noted, they are no longer the uber-expensive lux items they used to be. Check them out. They just might make that sucker fit the garage without having to use a jackhammer.

[ol trunt]

Well, after looking at many ways to build a pop top