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Old 05-31-2014, 09:53 PM   #51
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Any color silicone marked "silicone II".
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Old 05-31-2014, 09:55 PM   #52
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by bamper
I'm not sure what it's called but I used a thin rubber with a sticky backing. I purchased it on a 4" wide roll at the Home Depot. I know it's used in conjunction with Tyvek and siding and all that jazz. I cut a 4" square, put it over each hole and haven't looked back. Putting silicone in the hole first might not be a bad idea for that added peace of mind.

Love the bus, I too fell in love with the body style and have to have it.
I know exactly the sticky stuff your talking about. Thanks for the idea.
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Old 05-31-2014, 09:56 PM   #53
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by sdwarf36
Any color silicone marked "silicone II".
Thanks for the info.
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:30 PM   #54
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Or perhaps Resisto? http://www.rona.ca/en/waterproofing-...75-ft-74165123
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:33 PM   #55
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
Thanks for the info jazty.
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Old 06-01-2014, 10:36 PM   #56
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

I was looking at water pumps for my fresh water, and was wondering what is the correct GPM for a water pump? I know Im way ahead of myself on this one, but trying to get ideas.
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:40 PM   #57
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

You get a given pressure at a given GPM. There is usually a chart or graph that you can judge against your expected GPM usage.

The highest pressure/flow pump I have found so far is the Remco Aquajet.
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Old 06-02-2014, 08:47 AM   #58
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
Thanks for the info jazty.
Well, I don't actually know if that's the product Bamper use, I'm just throwing out a suggestion (as Nat did).

Personally, if the floor is all ripped apart anyways, I'd weld the nail holes shut and paint both sides. That's what I did with my bus. It was probably just as easy as using caulk, takes about 4 seconds per hole and you can be damn sure it's not going to unseat itself. A small MIG welder will do just fine.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:08 AM   #59
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kirk
Quote:
Originally Posted by jazty
Thanks for the info jazty.
Well, I don't actually know if that's the product Bamper use, I'm just throwing out a suggestion (as Nat did).

Personally, if the floor is all ripped apart anyways, I'd weld the nail holes shut and paint both sides. That's what I did with my bus. It was probably just as easy as using caulk, takes about 4 seconds per hole and you can be damn sure it's not going to unseat itself. A small MIG welder will do just fine.
I was planning on using metal tape on both sides, with a daub of acoustical sealant in the actual hole before painting and undercoating.
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:21 AM   #60
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Re: 1979 Chevrolet Bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj
I was planning on using metal tape on both sides, with a daub of acoustical sealant in the actual hole before painting and undercoating.
I expect the metal tape will eventually come off. I tried it on the underside of an SUV once. It was nowhere to be found after a couple hours of driving (it was applied while the vehicle was clean and dry, but I think going out into the winter weather did it in). Acoustical sealant is a great, albeit messy, choice for sealing overlaps and the like, but without tape on the bottom side to hold it in it might slow-flow out of the hole, particularly on a warm day.

Just my thoughts on it. If you go this route, I'm sure we'd all appreciate a status update after a couple months of driving. If the tape and goop stay on this is surely a step up from using a dab of silicone!
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