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Old 07-07-2015, 03:14 PM   #31
Bus Geek
 
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Seems like those under floor heaters placed around the tank between the outside and foam would be good. It's basically the same as those stick on oil pan heaters for engines. Just bigger. The amp draw could be the problem. Idk what they pull when on.
Mine are hot water, not electric.

My hot water will be heated with Coal, wood, solar, electric, and or propane.

Do not ever use a electric resistance heating wire where you cant remove it to replace it. They all fail in time. Some faster than others.

This is one of the biggest reasons I use water to transfer the heat. This keeps the electric heating elements in the boiler where they can be changed easily.

Nat
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:21 PM   #32
Mini-Skoolie
 
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U built your system or bought it?
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:29 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Dustin View Post
U built your system or bought it?
Built all from scratch.

It's fully modeller, and can be as simple, or complex as you want it to be.

Google In floor radiant hot water heating.

Nat
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:41 PM   #34
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If u don't mind. Could u give me a short summary on how ur system is built to route the water. I went on Google a seen examples and will research in more depth once I'm home, but work now can u explain to me some basics. How much water this system holds, is it completely separate for the fresh water system (so examples on Google show it connected), and if connected have to prevent it for heating on summer days, etc.
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:16 AM   #35
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin View Post
If u don't mind. Could u give me a short summary on how ur system is built to route the water. I went on Google a seen examples and will research in more depth once I'm home, but work now can u explain to me some basics. How much water this system holds, is it completely separate for the fresh water system (so examples on Google show it connected), and if connected have to prevent it for heating on summer days, etc.
This would be a good spot to start.

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/hy...-bus-9024.html

Hope that helps.

Nat
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:47 AM   #36
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Nat,
I like the information, going to review it a couple more times. I'm interested in having a small wood burning stove, but the idea of cutting a hole in the top is unappealing to me so I'm not really sure if I'd like to go that route.

But if I do, how could I use it to heat an in floor system. Also how do I guage the size for the pipe, the amount of pipe, and what is needed to heat the amount. I'm thinking I only need to cover the between the wheel wells and not completely where I put my bed because I'll make it easier and put the fresh water tank under the bed. I don't want the tank to receive too much heat.

Just to give u an idea of what I'm thinking, I want to build a system for the floor and include the heater system using the engine coolant. Hot potable water I thinking will be easier just to pull directly from the tank through a tank less heater. Plus the money saved from less heat exchangers I'd have to buy.

Also I plan on very little off the grid camping and living, but what size fresh water tank should I use. Even tho I don't plan to be off the grid I am a what if planner so I'd like to be able to go at least a week for example if I had to with city water and shore power.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:21 AM   #37
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Sorry I don't have the time to step you though this.

Wood stoves are a waste of time if your going to be connected to hook ups.

Just learn the basics of in floor heating, and run it off a single circulating pump, thermostat, and a simple electric hot water heater.

Heating a system like this from a wood stove takes a ton more knowledge, parts, and space. This is not something for the beginner.

Nat
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Old 07-13-2015, 06:02 PM   #38
Mini-Skoolie
 
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I want to use an electric water heater because I plan on using hook ups as much as possible.

Now my question is 30 vs 40 gallon tank, 3800 watt vs 4500 watt? What is better setup for less amp draw. I don't live where the winters are very cold long, but I would like to have it if I decided to travel farther north sometime.

After living in a camper with a 30 amp system that won't allow the ac and microwave to run at the same time I'd like to avoid this.
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:33 PM   #39
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin View Post
I want to use an electric water heater because I plan on using hook ups as much as possible.

Now my question is 30 vs 40 gallon tank, 3800 watt vs 4500 watt? What is better setup for less amp draw. I don't live where the winters are very cold long, but I would like to have it if I decided to travel farther north sometime.

After living in a camper with a 30 amp system that won't allow the ac and microwave to run at the same time I'd like to avoid this.
Get one with two elements, remove one and install a 120 volt 1500 watt element. Then rewire the tank so that both elements are fully independent.

This allows you to run the low wattage so you can run on less power, and you still have the option of using the high wattage element if big power is available.

For reference the low wattage element will take longer to heat the water.

You can also get direct current elements (DC). They come from 12 volts up.

Nat
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:08 PM   #40
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Cool. Does having the feed to the first manifold and return on the second on the same side have any affect on the heat being distributed evenly.
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