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Old 12-18-2018, 05:30 PM   #301
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Could you link the connector for going through the floor? Would be great to have

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Old 12-18-2018, 05:38 PM   #302
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I wish I could. I found them at a local supply company. It's also where I got the Wardflex. I'll take a better picture of the tag tomorrow on one I'm not sure that I'm using tomorrow.
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Old 12-20-2018, 02:04 PM   #303
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Could you link the connector for going through the floor? Would be great to have
This may help.

https://www.winsupplyinc.com/gastite/_/A-01209307
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Old 12-20-2018, 03:00 PM   #304
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thanks! ill save that link for when i start my propane
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Old 12-20-2018, 03:38 PM   #305
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Winsupply had a shop about 20 minutes from. There are just some projects where I need to see and feel the stuff before I know how I'm building it.
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Old 12-20-2018, 04:12 PM   #306
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I would recommend a shutoff inside at the appliance and outside at the manifold.
The CSST stuff can be a pain if you don't do it right.
Most important is the cuts.
Needs to be a straight clean cut all the way through.
Don't just break off the last little bit. And think it will be good?
The connection fittings actually have a torque rating for proper install.
Pressure test with air and bubbles and find/fix the leaks and there will be some that over tightening doesn't fix which means you need to cut it again and try again.
The fitting actually flares the inside of the tubing as the two piece lock is pressed in by the nut so if you have a bad cut and have already squished it then you need to cut the pipe off again.
Can re-use the same fitting.
I personally would recommend a shutoff inside and 2-3 foot of flared flex hose with a check valve at each interior appliance.
The big box stores sell them for appliances with the check valve in the bag but you still have to adapt to each appliance.
Ain't a big fan of the CSST stuff? I would drill a hole big enough to PVC sleeve the line through the floor and run sch40 black steel through the floor supported in and out with the shutoff valve there and flex or CSST to the appliance.
Good luck
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Old 12-20-2018, 04:38 PM   #307
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I would recommend a shutoff inside at the appliance and outside at the manifold.

Agreed. Cost very little money and seems like a good safety measure.
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Old 12-20-2018, 04:43 PM   #308
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Thank you for the detailed response. I will put valves at both spots. I have two stub outs going into the interior l. I'll place valves on the inside and the check valves as well. I picked up two packs of the appliance line from Lowe's.

The other two lines will go to a quick connect for a propane grill and the other to my generator, under the bus.
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:26 PM   #309
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One other thing I just thought of.
When you pressure test with air you need to have the appliances valves off or not even connected.
Most gas systems are only rated for 2-psi pressure max and the regulator steps that down to 7-11 inches of pressure which isn't even one psi but for safety and buy code in most areas you need to test the piping connections at 15-psi but your fixtures can't handle that. Might cost a little more in fittings but I would complete the entire system all the way to the appliance and pull the final connections at the appliance and cap them for testing that way the whole enchilada is under test and code says that it has to hold that pressure with no loss for the time it takes to inspect every joint. Don't say spray it with soap water but that's the only way you will truly know at such low PSI.
Your CSST manufacturer will have there test requirements available also. You could also document your gas line testing and procedures and have them available if the insurance company ask.
And then there is an old school way that is very efficient but will scare most people if they have never been around it before but will show a leak for sure if there is one?Will share if interested. Good luck
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Old 12-21-2018, 04:49 PM   #310
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Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223 View Post
One other thing I just thought of.
When you pressure test with air you need to have the appliances valves off or not even connected.
Most gas systems are only rated for 2-psi pressure max and the regulator steps that down to 7-11 inches of pressure which isn't even one psi but for safety and buy code in most areas you need to test the piping connections at 15-psi but your fixtures can't handle that. Might cost a little more in fittings but I would complete the entire system all the way to the appliance and pull the final connections at the appliance and cap them for testing that way the whole enchilada is under test and code says that it has to hold that pressure with no loss for the time it takes to inspect every joint. Don't say spray it with soap water but that's the only way you will truly know at such low PSI.
Your CSST manufacturer will have there test requirements available also. You could also document your gas line testing and procedures and have them available if the insurance company ask.
And then there is an old school way that is very efficient but will scare most people if they have never been around it before but will show a leak for sure if there is one?Will share if interested. Good luck



hopefully not the flame test...



pressure testing with air can have mixed results with temoperature.. not alot at those low pressures but still can affect it .. in the HVAC world we pressurize everything with nitrogen.
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Old 12-22-2018, 04:19 PM   #311
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I know and understand the benefits of nitrogen but the average Joe doesn't have access to nitrogen bottles,regulators and manifold gauges or shrader valves.
That's why I said compressed air. If you go buy a gas line test block off of the shelf it is set up for compressed air with a valve stem connection on it.
And they are testing there work for there safety not an inspection.
Yes nitrogen is a better option if you are set up for it but a big expense for one test if your not.
For a line to hold pressure long enough for a person to soap every joint and look for leaks this time of year the temp. At pressure up and holding and the temp and pressure bubbly time isn't going to change quick enough to effect it.
If left pressurized with air at 2-pm in the afternoon and looked at again at 7-am the next morning yes the pressure will have dropped a pound or 2 because of temperature.
With the CSST tubing he is running even a trained and experienced installer is going to have leaks and that's why I recommended a pressure test.
Air and or nitrogen with bubbles is a better test than just turning the gas on and using your sniffer.
But yes the flame test still happens and it will show even the smallest that the bubbles almost don't even after a saturation period.
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Old 12-22-2018, 04:59 PM   #312
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Thank you for the input guys. The people on this forum have been an invaluable resource for me.

I will buy the caps. They don't cost much. I'll run everything to it's final destination, minus hooking up to appliances, I'll cap those ends. Then I'll pick up gas line test block and hook up ye ole bus compressor to it and check for leaks.

How long should I keep the system pressurized? Just long enough to check for leaks?
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Old 01-08-2019, 05:48 PM   #313
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Not much to update with. Have just been working interior and trying to trim out the inside. Propane still hasn't been installed...

I did manage to run my 15,000 btu Dometic brisk II from my inverter and battery bank AND run my mini-split at the same time. However, it was amazing to watch 10% if the battery bank get picked out in a hour. So, that is not something I will do often, but it shows me that I don't necessarily need a Genny running to power it while I drive
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:03 PM   #314
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Interior update: from the driver's seat back we are about 98% done.



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Old 01-21-2019, 06:10 PM   #315
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Love the bright white interior. I'm torn between woodgrain and white myself. I may go with wood ceiling and white below. I don't want a dark dungeon when I'm done.
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:15 PM   #316
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Looks great! Love the light, bright feel.
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:43 AM   #317
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Bunks and some of the measurements. I can sleep in the top one comfortably, but no sitting up. 30 inch deep mattress. Framed with 2x6. So roughly 34 inches deep from outside of frame. The drawer goes almost all the way back to the wall. The space under the drawer is only about 5 inches deep and the it hits wheel well. The big open space on bottom goes all the way to the wall/chair rail is behind the wheel well for the cats litter boxClick image for larger version

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Old 01-22-2019, 10:44 AM   #318
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Thank you Marc and Tango. While we like the wood look, we wanted something bright to help open up the space, especially since we deleted all the windows
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:45 AM   #319
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Thanks for those pics.
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Old 01-22-2019, 11:00 AM   #320
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Bunks and some of the measurements. I can sleep in the top one comfortably, but no sitting up. 30 inch deep mattress. Framed with 2x6. So roughly 34 inches deep from outside of frame. The drawer goes almost all the way back to the wall. The space under the drawer is only about 5 inches deep and the it hits wheel well. The big open space on bottom goes all the way to the wall/chair rail is behind the wheel well for the cats litter box
Big fan of the climbing holds! Nice touch.
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