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Old 05-14-2018, 05:25 PM   #41
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 911
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Thanks! I don't know if they will or not. I'll ask for at least a discount. Im going to call them tomorrow. I can use some of the steel on some projects for deleting the plastic school bus sign and on the door.

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Old 05-18-2018, 05:22 PM   #42
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Year: 1990
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Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
So, no work on the bus really this week. On top of the rain I had a bone spur removed from my shoulder. Tendons weren't torn so looks like a quick recovery. I have found only about three spots leaking in the bus so far. One up front where the sealant is old, one on the driver's window and one in an emergency window. All the windows will he removed so will do a temp seal where they leak. The part in the front will have a temp seal until I prep for pain in a month or so.

The rustoleum paint on top of primer is holding up well. And I keep finding the puddles because all of my patches won't let the water out, which means the water won't come in that way either
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:23 PM   #43
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Chassis: Ford
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Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
6.6l New Holland Engine. Has never even given a hint of not starting.

Help if you can. Engine won't start. Was trying to tie a rocker switch panel into the dash so I turned her on to see if the switched panel was in right. Didn't light up so I turned her off. Moved a the positive to a different busbar and went to crank her. She turned over once or twice and then it became very high pitched.

https://youtu.be/0F_-VaExtHQ

Unplugged everything wiring wise that I added which was just two wires. What do you think?
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Old 05-19-2018, 04:40 PM   #44
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Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Is the thing in the right a manual fuel.pump?Click image for larger version

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I follow my push/pull engine on off cable to here. I feel like the bus isn't getting fuel. I pumped the silver thing on the right up and down a few times hoping it would do something. I'm going to quit trying to start to not break it worse unless I already have...
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:09 PM   #45
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Going out to pump this thing like 100 times. If that doesn't work then I dunno. Guages read I have over half a tank so I don't really think that the issue is that I'm out of diesel. I think k the quick in and off may have done something... I dunno. I'm gonna try cussing at it some more as well
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Old 05-19-2018, 06:49 PM   #46
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Well cussing almost helped. Found out my new neighbor used to be a mechanic. He thinks the batteries are the issue. Throwing a charge on them overnight and I'll hook em back up tomorrow and let ya know.
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Old 05-20-2018, 02:22 PM   #47
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It was batteries.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:17 PM   #48
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Glad you got it figured out. No high pitch any more, everything sounding normal again?
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:48 PM   #49
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Thanks JJ. Yeah, she's sounds about normal again. I need to get the drivers seat back in and take her for a nice long run soon. She's been sitting since February. This did make me really realized I need to learn some more about diesel engines.

On another note. Got the rest of my steel for the windows today. Small discount but I'll take. The extra steel from before will help me patch the holes from upper lights and school bus signs on the front and back. I'd leave them but I'm worried that at some point the seals will leak. Hopefully I can finish skins before this weekend and get on to patching those lights and installing solar panels and subfloor.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:54 PM   #50
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Also did some work on interior dash wiring. Trying to hook up this rocker switch panel too. I am thinking of running a negative from the battery to a bus bar to the switch panel and running the positive to a busbar that I know has power. Then run my wires to the switch panel reds and back to the negative busbar. I think that should work.

As I was taking out things I don't need, I've noticed that I now have no wires on the white panel that go to anything. Once I have the rocker panel working I'll check and see if I skipped any important lights. I know I have headlights and turn signals. Not sure I I need the white panel anymore at all.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-22-2018, 06:49 PM   #51
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This may not be a big deal to everyone, but it's a huge leap for me. Have wired up my rocker switch panel. I officially have a working over head cab light.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-24-2018, 06:23 PM   #52
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Summer has started. Took today off. Tomorrow starts all day everyday conversion.
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Old 05-25-2018, 06:16 PM   #53
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Finished up.passenger side skins. Skinned the school bus sign opening. Got pilot holes drilled for 50# propane tank.

Anything I should know before installing the propane tank? I'm using 3/8 grade 8 bolts through the floor with the corresponding washers and lock nuts. I feel that the floor is sufficiently strong. Should I add a square of steel or a steel strap between top washer and floor?

It will be on the driver's side. I want it between the wheel wells and the gray water will most likely be on the driver's side in that area. It will be about 10"s from the fuel tank. I guess if I go boom it'll be twice as big!

I also chose that area because no one will be above it during travel or sleeping and I read that ferries and tunnels will not let you on if your propane is in the wrong spot, however, that might just be an unfounded rumor.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-25-2018, 07:00 PM   #54
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Wouldn't hurt to have a 6" plate at each bolt hole. If you could weld the plate to the floor, even better
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Old 05-26-2018, 04:24 AM   #55
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Quote:
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Wouldn't hurt to have a 6" plate at each bolt hole. If you could weld the plate to the floor, even better
To spread out the weight right? Would 20 ga suffice or should I go get something thicker?

No subfloor in yet. Perhaps I should wait until subfloor is in, in case I need to remove the tank at some point I won't have to rip up the floor to access the bolt heads.
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Old 05-26-2018, 11:04 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjakitty View Post
To spread out the weight right? Would 20 ga suffice or should I go get something thicker?

No subfloor in yet. Perhaps I should wait until subfloor is in, in case I need to remove the tank at some point I won't have to rip up the floor to access the bolt heads.
I would use at least 1/8" plate. Yes, in an accident the weight off the tank wanting to leave the bus will need to rip out those 4- 6" plates welded to the floor instead of ripping out 4- 1-1/2" washers.
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Old 05-26-2018, 02:41 PM   #57
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Thanks o1marc. I'll get some plates. Is there something I could use in place of welding? An epoxy adhesive or something along those lines?
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Old 05-26-2018, 02:43 PM   #58
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Quote:
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That Mark. I'll get some plates. Is there something I could use in place of welding? An epoxy adhesive or something along those lines?
No, welding makes it become one with the bus.
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Old 05-28-2018, 06:12 PM   #59
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Year: 1990
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Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Diesel
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Air-Ride seat is 75% installed. I have to hook up the air so I can lift it so I can get the next couple of bolts in.

Under I used a layer of this seam sealer role that I've seen used in place of dynamat. Was it a good idea? I dunno, but I did it. Then a layer of polytherm board because it seemed like a good idea. A layer of 1/2 inch play and then aluminum diamond plate.

Time to turn the bus around. Started her up, got her in the street, could barelyove the wheel! Took her around the block, filled up the power steering and backed her in. Momma did a great job of helping with directions while backing up.

The pump unit has a leak. I put in Lucas stop leak, a whole quart and a half quart of regular power steering fluid. We will see what happens.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-28-2018, 06:14 PM   #60
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Turned aroundClick image for larger version

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