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Old 08-15-2018, 12:00 PM   #161
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Thanks Nick, that looks fine. Was hoping it wasn't floor pan as that would bend with every bump and sooner or later metal fatigue happens. Then the tank could drop or fall out, which wouldn't be a pretty sight.


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Your welcome. I appreciate that you took the time to check it out!

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Old 08-15-2018, 03:25 PM   #162
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Just wondering how the tanks themselves fasten to the strut itself? Straps with eyebolts maybe. You could add a third piece of strut at the top of the tank on each hanger and sandwich it that way with a few more nuts and washers. Then it won't be going anywhere, anytime, while adding more lateral strength to each hanger.


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Old 08-15-2018, 03:32 PM   #163
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The top of the tank is on between the two top struts, so it won't go left or right. The only issue would be front to back. The tank is lifted up from the bottom strut and lifts up until it touches the perpendicular channels that the bus floor rests on. I'll take some other pictures later and post em.
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Old 08-15-2018, 03:35 PM   #164
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Hey nice job, you have the bases covered. Pics help everyone so ty for sharing.


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Old 08-15-2018, 06:11 PM   #165
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Quote:
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Those 1/2" all thread rods are not likely to bend or sway under any force in that application. Incredible strength built that way, as long as the top strut is most securely mounted. That was my question in the above post . Any structural steel is good to fasten too, floor pan, don't even think about it.



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I can imagine incredible down force damage and incredible drag damage. Why not use a fuel tank steel cage and expand it a bit? Like rock sliders on your 4x4 IMO These threaded rod types are a wrong way to go for those wanting full usage of anything other than Interstate Hwy's and some paved roads..

What you want is your business.

On my bus were i to have threaded rod mounted tanks then several times with my total rough road skoolie then tough sprouts would have given me bad news.
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Old 08-15-2018, 07:04 PM   #166
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I"m not sure what the goal would be with beefing it up much, are we jumping over motorcycles?

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Old 08-15-2018, 08:10 PM   #167
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I can imagine incredible down force damage and incredible drag damage. Why not use a fuel tank steel cage and expand it a bit? Like rock sliders on your 4x4 IMO These threaded rod types are a wrong way to go for those wanting full usage of anything other than Interstate Hwy's and some paved roads..

What you want is your business.

On my bus were i to have threaded rod mounted tanks then several times with my total rough road skoolie then tough sprouts would have given me bad news.

Yours is a great idea in itself. I generalized because not many will be that offroad capable ever.
Cost of your idea is pricey too for a quality installation.
To each their own, no 2 buses are identical so whatever works .
The tanks would be ruined with the build I like but the strut and rod wouldn't budge much under normal bottom out conditions.



John



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Old 08-15-2018, 08:47 PM   #168
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I can imagine incredible down force damage and incredible drag damage. Why not use a fuel tank steel cage and expand it a bit? Like rock sliders on your 4x4 IMO These threaded rod types are a wrong way to go for those wanting full usage of anything other than Interstate Hwy's and some paved roads..

What you want is your business.

On my bus were i to have threaded rod mounted tanks then several times with my total rough road skoolie then tough sprouts would have given me bad news.
Well, if I get in a situation where I'm bottoming out the skirt between the tires, I'm probably not as concerned for my gray water tank as I am about being stuck or losing my drive shaft and exhaust, or stairs, or fuel tank...

I'm pretty sure it'll be ok.

I guess I'm just not building a total rough road skoolie...

I guess I never thought of building a steel cage to house the tank.

I don't have a 4x4. I don't know what rock sliders are...
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Old 08-15-2018, 11:11 PM   #169
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Well, if I get in a situation where I'm bottoming out the skirt between the tires, I'm probably not as concerned for my gray water tank as I am about being stuck or losing my drive shaft and exhaust, or stairs, or fuel tank...

I'm pretty sure it'll be ok.

I guess I'm just not building a total rough road skoolie...

I guess I never thought of building a steel cage to house the tank.

I don't have a 4x4. I don't know what rock sliders are...
And my son is worried about me driving over the curb to get the bus out of our driveway! I said it has to be fine, people drive over curbs all the time. It's definitely gonna be interesting trying to back it out.
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Old 08-16-2018, 04:06 AM   #170
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This is beautiful. This was my basic plan for anything mounted underneath from reading threads. BUT, just recently I read that this set up is fantastic for static loads but that when braking the forces on the long all thread are great and can cause failure. So now I am worried about that. I'm sure acceleration won't be a problem but with a full tank, I can see how the force of sharp braking could be extreme. I am wondering if another layer of something around the center of the tank would help? I am NOT an engineer!!
Each piece of all thread is 18" long on this setup. [emoji106]
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Old 08-16-2018, 08:36 AM   #171
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When backing up and you get it off into a ditch etc. Then hope and pray your rods don't drag. Sure not everyone will. Sure will ruin your trip if you tear it all loose. All those RV's we degrade sure don't build this way. Yes i agree. To each his own.
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Old 08-16-2018, 08:56 AM   #172
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When backing up and you get it off into a ditch etc. Then hope and pray your rods don't drag. Sure not everyone will. Sure will ruin your trip if you tear it all loose. All those RV's we degrade sure don't build this way. Yes i agree. To each his own.
Are you talking about the entire rod, up past where the tank is or just the bit hanging past the nuts?
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Old 08-16-2018, 10:28 AM   #173
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Anyways, I plan on trimming up that inch and a half or so rod hanging off after the nuts.

Got the propane tank installed (but not plumbed). Attached the mounting bolts to two pieces of strut using 1/2 Stainless bolts, lock washers, washers, and nuts.

I then wedges myself up under the bus with the setup. I placed the strut that's attached to the tank on top of the strut that's attached to the bus. I then bolted all that in using the same ss hardware.

Today's mission is mounting the generator. Originally I was going to place it underneath in the rear of the bus but looking at it, I will probably mount it in front of the rear tires on the passenger side. I'll extend the exhaust out from under the bus. I'll be running the generator on propane.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-16-2018, 03:02 PM   #174
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Started the generator area. I'm starting with 24" underbody storage mounts bolted into the frame. I'll bolt three pieces of strut to the mounts and then bolt a piece of treated plywood to those struts to create a shelf.ill also add another piece of strut to the top channels and add some support rods.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-16-2018, 04:21 PM   #175
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NinjaKitty, I see you have the very same tanks I have. I'm putting mine in my basement.
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Old 08-16-2018, 07:08 PM   #176
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Remember that propane tanks need to be in a VERY well vented space. If you get even a small leak in a closed space, it can build up and make a surprisingly large boom.
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Old 08-16-2018, 07:36 PM   #177
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Remember that propane tanks need to be in a VERY well vented space. If you get even a small leak in a closed space, it can build up and make a surprisingly large boom.
Thank you Tango. There is space all around it and it's not enclosed. It's open to the bottom.

I'll take some different pictures tomorrow.
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Old 08-16-2018, 07:37 PM   #178
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NinjaKitty, I see you have the very same tanks I have. I'm putting mine in my basement.
I'll be putting the fresh tank under the bed, inside. A basement would be nice!
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:25 PM   #179
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Are you talking about the entire rod, up past where the tank is or just the bit hanging past the nuts?

Anything weak that hangs down that can be crushed by dragging etc. Don't worry about me if you have already done it. I want hell for stout.

A Rock Slider on a 4x4 is a steel plate or bar etc attachted to the frame that protects the lower portion or your vehicle body if or when you drag it over a rocky spot that will dent your underbody.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=rock+s...aGj2z5&PC=HCTS

With my idea you repurpose and replumb the 60 gal or so fuel tank into your black or grey tank. Of course the obvious changes.

Most likely a 3/4" drive angle impact wrench and 3/4" and head drill from HBF will be needed. TWO TRIANGLE BRACKETS WITH 3 BOLTS each. remove and save to reinstall on your bus.
You could box it all in with plywood etc.

Sure i will get a lot of OVERBILT!! talk but consider what you get for about the same work and money ? i can't say.
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:54 PM   #180
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Still working on generator setup. In the mean time, electric! I'm working on getting my system items in place. I'm going to run the the system wires first. I'll add in my 120v AC runs after more framing is done. My 12v DC is run through the bus already but I haven't decided where to mount the fuse bar.

I'm planning on grounding the negative busbar to the chassis. I am assuming I can run the ground from the solar panels to the bus bar as well?

I ran 10/2 from the inverter AC out to the breaker panel. I have a 30A, three 20A, and four 15A breakers. I'm also running 10/2 from the shorepower plug to the inverter. That run will be less than 3 feet.

Any thoughts or opinions or ideas are welcome. Tomorrow I'll work on running the system wires to the various components on the pictures.

Pictures, from right to left:

Pic 1: Combiner box, MPPT charge controller, 80 amp breaker, four 12 volt 200 amp hour Renogy batteries

Pic 2: 500 amp shunt for Victron battery monitor, negative/ground busbar, positive busbar, 300 amp ANL fuse

Pic 3: Aims 3000 watt 12 volt inverter/charger with automatic transfer switch, GE 125 amp load center (I might need to change that 30 amp out for a 20?).

Running 4/0 from inverter to busbars and from battery to battery. All batteries in parallel. 4/0 from negative busbar to ground on chassis.

10 ga from panels to combiner box. 4 ga from combiner all the way to bus bars.

4 ga from position busbar to DC fuse panel (not mounted yet)

I'll look for a surge protector to go between 30 amp shorepower outlet and inverter. Any suggestions on that?

Sorry about the jumble of thoughts. Thanks for reading!Click image for larger version

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